Improving CVA trigger

[garandman]

Yeah, I know, you can't polish a turd, but...


Any ideas on how to improve a CVA flinter trigger?

It has a sear adjustment screw, which I've tweaked, but the trigger is still like a 20lb pull.

Any help appreciated.

 

[Rifleman1776]

This belongs in a workshop forum.
But, I have improved trigger/lock function on many CVA guns. They can be improved. I'll grant they will never be like a high quality trigger/lock combo but improvement is possible.
My basic tool for the job is an Ez-Lap diamond file. It is about the size of a tongue depressor.
All touching parts must be polished. This alone will help. Inspect the mortise for rubbing and/or wood splinters intefereing with trigger or lock action. For the lock removal of the mainspring requires a mainspring vice. Using pliers wil mean you will have to buy a new spring. Basically, just going over both mechanisms and removing all rough spots and freeing up places that rub when they shouldn't will improve action greatly. It does not require much skill, just a newspaper on the kitchen table, the diamond, or other, hone, mainspring vice and some time. The first time is a great learning experience.

 

[BEP]

If the trigger pull is really 20 pounds or so the very first thing that I'd check would be if the trigger or sear is binding due to poor inletting. Many of these guns were sold as kits and skill levels varied quite a bit among the folks assembling them.

And I've seen binding (usually the trigger cannot move far enough to properly function the sear) in factory assembled guns as well. It's where I'd start. Good luck.

 

[ohio ramrod]

The problem on most is in the angle of the tumbler full cock notch. If the angle is less than 90 degrees you actually are fighting the main spring to release the tumb;er. The sear and notch should meet at exactly ninety degrees. Less than ninety you have to fight the main spring, more than 90 and the sear will puh off and not hold. Simple check for this is to have some one watch the cock as you SLOWLY pull the trigger. If you are fighting the main spring the cock will move back slightly before releasing.A simple fix is to hone the notch until you get the angle right. remember to hone a litle, check and repeat until you get it right. "putting on " hones are hard come by! :idunno:

 

[garandman]

The problem on most is in the angle of the tumbler full cock notch. If the angle is less than 90 degrees you actually are fighting the main spring to release the tumb;er. The sear and notch should meet at exactly ninety degrees. Less than ninety you have to fight the main spring, more than 90 and the sear will puh off and not hold. Simple check for this is to have some one watch the cock as you SLOWLY pull the trigger. If you are fighting the main spring the cock will move back slightly before releasing.A simple fix is to hone the notch until you get the angle right. remember to hone a litle, check and repeat until you get it right. "putting on " hones are hard come by! :idunno:

Looking at it, I think youlve got it. I polished the trigger and sear bar the trigger engages, and it helped....slightly. But the "sear" is angled, not square. And the sear bar spring looks heavier than my Kentucky pistol kit.

So I'll prolly "square up" the sear first, and then maybe try to get a lighter spring.

 

[rafterob]

That is the main culprit. But be real careful, you can screw that job up pretty fast. But then, how would I know :redface:

 

[necchi]

and then maybe try to get a lighter spring.

Well don't be in a hurry to do that, there's a screw that adjusts the travel of that spring,, and you can adjust how much that spring pushes.
Take a look at this thread; http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/...268832/post/1140654/hl//fromsearch/1/#1140654