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I hope I have not ruined my muzzloader?Help!!

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I would do a "bore brush" search here and read alot first. We see many posts "How do I get the stuck bore brush out of the barrel". You probably just need to clean and oil and go about your new addiction.

If the barrel is wedged rather than pinned you wanna take it OUT and pump water trough it each time. I cut the top of a 2 litre pepsi bottle and fill half way with water and change the water at least once. Then you got the entire bore/breech etc good n clean.
 
I'm greatly puzzled {nothing new} as to why some get wire brushes stuck.....have been using bronze wire brushes since first shooting MLers in 1976 and possibly due to my ignorance, have never hesitated to use them and have never got one stuck in all those years. Probably due to a "positive mindset".

At one time or another, some might have used the wrong size wire brush {must be a common occurrence}, also could be due to defective RR fittings, stripped threads, the wire brush unscrewed or they didn't hold their tongue in the proper position... which is of prime importance.

Anyways....a stuck wire brush must have left a lasting impression on the stuckee who evermore banished wire brushes.....thereby failing to use a very useful tool.....Fred
 
I' m a water guy myself as the best cleaner, I have some brushes around here but haven't used one in years. Bore butter is not a good preservitive, but don't be alarmed at brown patchs. Bore butter and natural greases can oxidize and turn brown on long term exposure to air. The brown on your patch is probably not from your barrel. Look around your breach and muzzle. Do you see any spot of rust there? These places are exposed to all your nasty gases around shooting and the metal is as vunerable to rust as the inside of the gun. I've been driven crazy with brown stained patchs till I exam end the grease itself. Use a bore light after wiping or a tight patch after wiping. Do you feel or see a spot? Likly your bore is clean or at least in rusted,
 
I made my own Moose Milk from recipes found on this site. However, like you, I saw frightening, horrible orange glop on my cleaning patches days after a thorough cleaning. Tenngun talked about oxidation of the material in the Moose Milk and producing the orange goo. That is exactly what was in my bore - an orange residual from the Moose Milk. Once I stopped using the Moose Milk, the orange grunge was gone.

As for the use of brushes: I know many of you much more experienced than I have used the patch and water method successfully for decades and have no rust or other problems. I used a Harbor Freight bore scope to examine the interior of a barrel after using a nylon bore brush and just using water with dish soap and patches. The bore was shiny and clean looking with and without using a nylon bore brush. (After suffering a stuck bronze bore brush, I will use only a nylon type.) However, there were significant dots of dark debris in the corners of the rifling grooves.

After multiple scrubs with the nylon bore brush, I used the bore scope. Most of the dark debris lodged in the sharp corners was gone.

Perhaps the corner debris was harmless and the nylon brushing unnecessary .... or not. I don't want to leave that residual in the bore to find out if it effects the bore.

Now that I have seen for myself what is left in the rifling of my rifles, I just take the extra step.
Ron
 
You have gotten a lot of great advice from some very experienced black powder shooters. I don't know if I will add much to what has already been said but I will toss in my cleaning procedure for your amazement, amusement and edification. Here is how I do it.

Since you have found some rust in your bore, but not enough to be a major concern, I would recommend that if you are still getting rust out of your bore, that you use one of the 3-M green scouring pads to scour it. They are the kind that you use to scour pots and pans. You will need a jag that is smaller than the one that you normally use for your cleaning patches. The scouring pads are thicker and need a bit more clearance. Put some oil on the piece of 3-M scouring pad and use it to scrub the rest of the rust out of your bore. Then wipe out your bore with several cleaning patches. Once it is clean and your patches are coming out clean, use some good gun oil such as Birchwood-Casey's Barricade to oil and protect your bore.

To clean your gun after shooting it, you will need to remove the nipple and put it in a small container of warm soapy water to soak while you clean your rifle. They make a device, a piece of tubing with a nipple attachment on it, to attach to your rifle by screwing it into the nipple hole. It is worth the money and you will find it a great help in cleaning your gun. Screw it into the nipple hole and put the other end into a can of warm soapy water. Put a wet patch on your jag and run it down the bore of your rifle. You will see bubbles coming out of the tubing. Make sure that you have the tubing where it won't come flying out of the can when you pump the water into your bore. If it flies out, it can be pretty messy squirting dirty water all over the place. Anyway, pump soapy water in and out of your bore until it looks clean. Then rinse your bore with clean water to remove the dirty soapy water. Dry with several dry patches. The next step is an important one and that is to spray some WD-40 down your bore (hold it vertically so it will drain out the nipple hole) to remove the last traces of water. That is the main purpose for the invention of WD-40, to disperse water. Now, run several patches through the bore to remove all of the WD-40 (it is not a rust preventer in spite of all claims to the contrary). Follow this with a patch with a good gun oil such as Barricade to oil and protect your bore and you are good to go. Of course, you should have cleaned the hammer face and around the nipple with a tooth brush and soapy water to get those areas clean and you need to use the toothbrush on the nipple that you have been soaking. Brush it and rinse it and spray it with WD-40. Put a tiny bit of grease on the threads. Be careful not to get grease in the hole in the nipple, just on the threads. This will make the nipple easy to remove the next time you are ready to clean your rifle. I like to put a light coat of wax on my stock to keep it looking nice. My favorite wax is Renaissance Wax. It's pricy but a small jar will last you for years....maybe decades. If you don't want to spend the money for the excellent Renaissance Wax, Johnson's paste floor wax will work, too.

Oh, I almost forgot, you need to give some attention to your lock as well. Just remove it by removing the lock bolt. Unscrew it until it is almost all the way out and then give it a few taps with something like a plastic hammer or a piece of wood to knock the lock out of the mortise. When it is out of the mortise, finish unscrewing the lock bolt. Put it aside in a safe spot where it won't get lost. Now here is another of my cleaning "secrets", go to your local auto parts store and get a spray can of either brake cleaner or carburetor cleaner (both work equally as well). Take your lock outside and spray it with the spray cleaner to flush out all of the crud. Shake off the cleaner and let it dry. It will dry very quickly. Then lightly (just a tiny drop) oil the working parts and wipe the whole lock with a very light coat of oil. Do not use grease or oil the lock heavily. It won't make the lock work any better and will just gather dirt and crud. Replace your lock and when you tighten the lock bolt, do so gently. All you want is for the lock bolt to be just snug. Over tightening can cause problems. Gently snug and then stop.

Anyway, that's my cleaning procedure. Others may differ but that is what has worked for me for quite a few years and I have no rust problems. My rifles all look like new....except for a few wear marks and the occasional minor ding. :hatsoff: :hatsoff:
 
Being a diehard "cheapskate", here's my cleaning procedure which has prevented a rusty bore.

Hot water is pored down the bore, a few strokes w/ a bronze wire brush dislodges the fouling, the bbl is dumped and new hot water is poured in. This is also dumped. A couple of patches cut from old shirts dries the bore and then because the bbl is still hot, the Oxyoke Wonder Lube is fingered into the bore and a patch saturated w/ Wonder Lube is given a few strokes. This will suffice for short or long term storage and w/o any hint of rust. Have been doing this for nigh on 40 yrs w/o a rusty bore. Simple and low cost but extremely effective....Fred
 
Let's make sure we've got this out of the way; after cleaning dry thoroughly and apply a proven rust preventative in the bore. Never, ever leave a bore uncoated with a preservative.
 
It's OK, have done the same here. Then I started with a good lube to keep the barrel bore shiney. :metoo:
Just make sure to dry it out after cleaning.

I did use a crimped brush once, it came out of the crimp at the bottom of the bore. Now I use looped brushes, where the twisted wire goes through the threaded part.

BartSr
 
Use barricade oil after soapy water cleaning and drying, store muzzle down or canted. When ready to load use an alcohol patch and a couple dry ones and life will be good again..
 
Folks here keep mentioning this Barricade oil? Where can one buy it? I have never heard of it before.Thanks
 
The only place I've heard of that Barricade (or Sheath which is an older name for it) is not available is in California.

Birchwood Casey doesn't want to have the "This Product has been determined by the State of California...." written on the container.

Because of this, California won't allow it to be sold in the state.
 

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