How to "polish" the stock?

[Little Wattsy]

Ive stained it.....did a light coat of boiled inseed oil and am on coat #2 of toungue oil...I have put the toungue oil on let it dry and then as I start "buffing" the wood for shine I am getting a sticky residue that is picking up dust and lint....manure! What do I need to do?
PLEASE

 

[crockett]

In my experience Tung oil sometimes doesn't dry out. If the area you live in is humid- that could add to the problem. Just stays gummy. You have a big job ahead of you if that's the case. What I did was very carefully scrap off the finish without marring the wood and then started over.
There are some varnishes with drying agents that may be better. Wait a bit before you do anything and hopefully you'll get some more replies.

 

[Vaino]

Perhaps the undercoat of linseed oil wasn't dry....sometimes it takes forever to dry, if in fact it ever does......Fred

 

[Mike Brooks]

I would have never started with linseed oil.

 

[Roy]

Get it out in the sunshine and warmth..(good time of year for that huh? :haha: )

Problem is that it wasn't dry. It may have felt dry but it wasn't.

Other option is to try to strip it off and get rid of what build up you have on it.

 

[Little Wattsy]

Get it out in the sunshine and warmth..(good time of year for that huh? :haha: )

Problem is that it wasn't dry. It may have felt dry but it wasn't.

Other option is to try to strip it off and get rid of what build up you have on it.

How would you strip off the toungue oil with out harming the wood or the stain?

 

[Chiefs50]

Some 0000 steel wool and turpentine/mineral spirits should do the trick. When using tung oil make sure you wipe off all excess - you want very thin coats.

Mike

 

[rich pierce]

Best advice so far, but with my heavy touch I'd vote for a lint-free piece of linin to strip it off. I run into problems lightening the stain whenever I use 4-O steel wool.

 

[Zoar]

Methinks the linseed oil is the problem. I think it still may be tacky/gummy and the 'polishing' is getting the gumminess to become obvious.

The best thing to try---although you may have to start over--is to put it in a warm place, like in the sun. And then at night bring it in and put it nearby a warm dry place.

Also did you put very, very light coats on? like hand rubbed until they were almost dry? Or, did you coat the layers on like painting a layer of paint? If you put heavier coats on, the best thing you can do is start over.

Very thin is the way to go.

 

[Robby]

Wattsy, Pure tung, and linseed oil, as purchased do not have drying agents in them. Direct sunlight will help, but even then, they will take a long time to dry. There is a product called "Terebene" that is used as a dryer for these oils. I would wipe off what you have already put on with turpentine and a soft cloth, The turp's may act as a drier for what is left in the wood, still I would put it back out in the sun. If you insist on using these oils, maybe Dan will chime in, he is very knowledgeable on this subject and can explain it a lot clearer than I can. Good luck!
Robby

 

[JohnN]

I usually start out with a mixture of 50/50 tung oil and mineral spirits. Hand application using just a bare finger. I gradually decrease the amount of mineral spirits and end up with 1 or 2 coats of just tung oil. Seems to apply easy and dry fast.

 

[LaBonte]

Hardware store boiled inseed oil does have driers in it - the problem being that is magnesium based drier and that dries from the surface first so it will feel dry to the touch, but will be wet underneath. This is the reason that you must put on VERY light coats only and then dry in the sun, with good airflow (use a fan), and warmth - good air flow and warmth will enhance the drying even without the sun.
IMO - I would scrub down the stock good with turpentine and a coarse cloth (canvas, old jeans,etc) to remove as much of the oil as possible, then re-sand lightly if need be - even better may be to use a dish scrub pad as it will help remove any left over finish but won't really remove the wood.
For a good oil type finish on guns scrap the other stuff and get some of Jim Chamber's Oil Finish (which has been specifically formulated for gunstocks http://www.flintlocks.com/parts.htm ).
You can also make your own traditional real boiled (heat polymerized) linseed oil based varnish too - if you want to know how ask away. Despite "common knowledge" most old rifles (pre-1840 anyway) were varnished NOT oil finished.

 

[R.J.]

I agree. The air must be moving. In the custom call business,I had the occasional problem call that just wouldn't dry. My solution was to place or hang it near the dehumidifier(sp?)in the basement along with a pan light. My "drying" light is a small flood bulb,or 100wt soft white,in one of those clamp on reflectors. Don't get the light too close, I hear tell you can damage the finish if you do :nono: :cursing: :wink: :grin:

 

[widget350]

I recently finished a cannon carriage with BLO, and it was slightly tacky. I used a piece of old jeans to burnish the finish, which worked perfectly. After a coat of carnuba wax, no issues at all. I did all of this outside in the 90+ degree Florida heat, which may have helped too. I don't know how much sticky residue you have though - just thought it may help to try this before taking it all off and starting over.

You say you did a light coat - what's a light coat to you, and how long did you let it dry, and in what conditions?

 

[Little Wattsy]

I recently finished a cannon carriage with BLO, and it was slightly tacky. I used a piece of old jeans to burnish the finish, which worked perfectly. After a coat of carnuba wax, no issues at all. I did all of this outside in the 90+ degree Florida heat, which may have helped too. I don't know how much sticky residue you have though - just thought it may help to try this before taking it all off and starting over.


You say you did a light coat - what's a light coat to you, and how long did you let it dry, and in what conditions?

By "light coat" of BLO I ment that I used 50% BLO and 50% mineral spirits....Im in Oregon...Humidity is about 1/5 an inch accumulation a day... :wink:
I think my biggest problem was putting on to much toungue oil at a time....Ive backed way off and its starting to look "OK"....I do have a heater and a small fan blower in my 12' X 16" shop; I could turn the celeing fan on low..??

To be clear if I need a do-over...Mineral Spirits will take off what Ive put on?

 

[Birddog6]

I would take mineral spirit & take it all off & start over. I think you put it on way too thick & shouldn't have used the BLO at all.

Seal the stock with Permalyn or Tru-Oil first. Then light rub all over with 0000 steel wool.

Then go to the hardware & get some Japan Drier. Put a teaspoon of Tung Oil in a jar lid & about 4-5 drops of japan drier in it. Wet just the TIP of your index finger with it & rub it in a place on the stock 3-4-5" til dry. Repeat moving over to a new place on the stock, repeat til you have the entire stock covered. It should be dry in 12 hrs but check & if humidity is high & still tacky let it dry 24 hrs. Rub it all with 0000 steel wool lightly, then vaccume the dust off with a brush on the vaccume, then reapply the the finish again with the same proceedure as above. .

Keep in mind that Tung ooil or BLO is not waterproof. If you want it waterproof for humid enviroments, seal it first with Permalyn or Tru-Oil, then 0000 steel wool lightly & then put the tung oil to it.

:thumbsup:

:thumbsup:

 

[peterbh]

Your technique was the problem. I once finished a shotgun with Danish Tung Oil. I live in the Central Oregon high desert and moisture is not a problem. I used 7-8 coats and rubbed down in between for a matte finish. I was finished and all went well until a hot day came along. I put the shotgun to my face and nearly couldn't get the #@*&@ thing off. You need to apply Tung oil differently. Add a drop and rub it in.

Linseed oil is really poor for moisture intrusion. It rates a 15% on a government test where Tru-Oil rates a 75%. Tru-Oil has some linseed oil in it and looks similar in finish. You can install Tru-Oil thickly and it will still dry pretty fast. Pro-Custom Oil is also good but doesn't darken as much as Linseed or Tru-Oil.