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HighUintas

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My lock bolt head is 1/8-3/16" high.

I'm just doing a single bolt and a washer style escutcheon for it. I'm wondering if that is going to look bad enough that I need to fill all the holes and drill again. Filling the hole in my locker plate will be quite the task.
 

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If you repair it correctly that is the best way, the lock bolt hole is not too difficult and the cock will mostly hide it anyway.

update; now seeing later posts and photos it looks like this is doable but it is your project so you have to make the call. If you drilled this one a little off so do a search on the forum for methods to drill holes straight, it is worth the time.
 
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If you repair it correctly that is the best way, the lock bolt hole is not too difficult and the cock will mostly hide it anyway.

The lock bolt hole is completely visible and not hidden by the cock because I located it really close to the fence. To make that completely invisible, I think I'd have to thread an extra bolt in there, cut it off, it close to the surface of the plate, and then peen the edges in and file/finish.
 
My lock bolt head is 1/8-3/16" high.

I'm just doing a single bolt and a washer style escutcheon for it. I'm wondering if that is going to look bad enough that I need to fill all the holes and drill again. Filling the hole in my locker plate will be quite the task.
To me, it is your gun! Do what you like! In order for everyone to see exactly what you are thinking, the escutcheon needs to be shown also. The rings on the screw face need to be removed.
Larry
 
Are you in the bolster? If so I would leave it as is. Many old bolts stood very proud of the wood. When you get your washer inlet it will let you know if you need to shorten the bolt.
 
Are you in the bolster? If so I would leave it as is. Many old bolts stood very proud of the wood. When you get your washer inlet it will let you know if you need to shorten the bolt.

I am. I drilled from the bolster side and apparently wasn't line up correctly, so it exited high on the side plate side. it is very unfinished. So I would still be dressing down the screw head and then inletting this side plate, but with the little teet filed off so that it's just round.
 

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So in my first picture, the top line is where the upper corner of the barrel side flat is and where the border of the lock panel should be. So my bolt and escutcheon would be on the very edge of the panel. The curved line should be ignored
 
For appearances, you could use a smaller washer.

According to "The Gunsmith of Grenville County", it was typical for lock bolts to be angled from lower on the offside. But, at this point doing such a correction would become somewhat complicated.
 
For appearances, you could use a smaller washer.

According to "The Gunsmith of Grenville County", it was typical for lock bolts to be angled from lower on the offside. But, at this point doing such a correction would become somewhat complicated.

Yes it mentions that in my Recreating the American Longrifle book, but I got it backwards. Mine slopes up toward the side plate side rather than down to the side plate side.

I should have tried that.... Then I would have drilled it level ;)
 
I think I'll probably have to fix it and redrill. It's going to drive me nuts forever if I leave it because the panel wouldn't be positioned right.

So... I picked up a birch dowel and a plug cutter. Patching the wood won't be too hard, but I think making the current hole in the lock plate invisible will be a little bit more complicated
 
you might leave the hole in the lock plate there. if anyone asks about it tell them it is to relieve pressure if powder residue ignites behind the lock!
what size is it 8 or 10?

Ha!! Yes and that I need extra vent hole because I stuff 300gr 4f in it ;)

It is an 8-32. I was thinking I might clean the threads and bolt well, flux it, put the bolt in, cut it off close to flush, then solder with lead solder or pure lead (not sure if you're lead is possible). I've read that silver solder will stay bright, but lead solder will turn dull gray, so it might not be very visible. I'm not real sure about peening the bolt edge to fill the gap. I'm sure it can be done by a skilled person, but I've yet to become skilled. What I lack in skill, I can usually make up with my patience and ability to turn a 10 minute job into a 2 hour job 😂
 
A little tip if you don't have the set up on a drill press
I am. I drilled from the bolster side and apparently wasn't line up correctly, so it exited high on the side plate side.
A little tip for getting holes to line up on both sides.

If ~~ you don't have a drill press set up like in the picture, with a pointed alignment fixure that is lined up with your drill bit. You place the pointed fixture in a center punch mark on the exit side of your hole, and the drill bit point will follow that path and your hole will be correct on both ends.

Then ~~ drill your hole from both sides and meet in the middle. I would rather have both exterior holes placed correctly and deal with a slight misalignment on the interior of the gun than deal with a hole that exits in the wrong place.

Just some suggestions since you mentioned that you weren't lined up correctly.
Screenshot_20220607-003452_Gallery.jpg
 

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