Hey Zonie & Other smart guys.

[Rebel]

Ok, i want to know how i can load a .454 rd ball in the chambers and they shave a nice little ring of lead but if i carry the revolver for a while and go to cock it, the balls have moved forward and are tying up the action. Or if i shoot 1 or 2 the rest move forward.What i mean is they are sliding forward in the chambers and trying to fall out and hitting against the barrel so the cylinder won't turn. I have had this happen on 2 revolvers in all the years i have shot them and they were both ASM's, the first one was a .36 cal '61 Navy, and this one is a .44 cal '51 Navy. THe chambers can't be bigger down inside than at the mouth, so how can the balls fall back out if they are a good tight fit going in?

 

[dboone]

The chambers can and are bigger. I had the same problem with my 1860 cyclinder. Its from the factory bad machining job on the cyclinder. All you can do is try 457 balls or get new cyclinder.

 

[Dave Rosenthal]

I second dboone! I think that it's the only explanation that comes to mind :hmm: . The loose balls are "jumping" under the forces of EVIL RECOIL :shake: .

Maybe this is the time to consider the purchase of a .45 LC conversion cylinder?? :hmm:

Just my 2 cents worth.

Dave

 

[hawkeye1755]

The chambers can have different diameters.
.36 = .367-.372
.44 = .445-.456

Try a larger RB.
:hatsoff:

 

[Rebel]

UT, the round balls are shaving lead as i load them, but it doesn't matter now, as i just talked to the dealer i bought it from and i am returning the gun for a refund. That wasn't the only problem it had. The nipples weren't lining up with the hammer when cocked, and every shot the loading lever was falling down even with the lever latched. Another ASM POS

 

[hawkeye1755]

. Another ASM POS

What is POS :hmm:

:hatsoff:

 

[rebel727]

. Another ASM POS

What is POS :hmm:

:hatsoff:

Piece of #&*%(censored)

 

[hawkeye1755]

. Another ASM POS

What is POS :hmm:

:hatsoff:

Piece of #&*%(censored)

POJ = piece of junk
:hatsoff:

 

[torn moc]

Undertaker...POS = piece of doggie duty......
the stuff that turns white and looks like pretzels in the yard.

 

[Zonie]

Well, sense you mentioned me by name, I guess I have to say something.

Of course, it is somewhat academic now that you've gotten rid of the gun, but as far as the movement of the balls goes, it might be due to the mouth being tapered with the larger diameter on the forward end of the chamber.
This could be caused by poor manufacturing methods, or by someone who "smoothed out" the inside of the chambers.

IMO, having a rough chamber is a goodness because the roughness gives the ball something to swage into so it gets a better grip when the ball is rammed.
Speaking of shearing and ramming and such, yes, the lead is sheared off of the ball when it first rammed making it exactly the size of the chamber mouth. If you just lightly ram the ball down on the powder, the ball will remain the same size.
On the other hand, if you apply quite a bit of force to compress the powder you will also squeeze the ball making it expand into the wall of the chamber. As I mentioned, if that wall is rough, the expanded ball will actually get a grip on it which will lessen the tendency of the balls to move forward from recoil.

Now, isn't that a good job of shoveling the Bovine Scat?

By the way, I have had the same problem with my C&B revolvers and I actually have found my advice to be true, at least for me.

zonie

 

[Rebel]

Thanks Zonie, i knew i could count on you to confuse me even more. :grin: Seriously though i can understand the rough chamber benefit bt just don't see how the ball can go in tight and slide back out. I could load it, ram the ball down hard on the wad and powder and then shake the gun and the balls would move forward. If that had been the only problem i may have had the chambers honed for a .457 ball but the timing was off, and the loading lever would drop after every shot. Too many things wrong with it.

 

[Zonie]

This is just a guess so take it for what it's worth.
( :bull: ???)

Part of the problem might be the fact that your using a wad over the powder.
Felt wads are very compressible.
When you ram the ball down hard on the wad, it compresses but it "remembers" how it used to be and becomes sort of a "spring". As soon as the ram pressure is released, this wad tries to shove the ball forward and as soon as it does, the static "grip" the ball had on the wall of the chamber is broken so the ball suddenly is "loose".
It only takes a little bit of movement for the ball to loose its grip.

On your next C&B, if you experiance this problem, try adding a bit of powder to make up for the lack of a wad, and then leave the wad in your shooting box. In other words, don't load with a wad.

Try it. It might work.

PS: Anyone else here who uses a wad over the powder that's seen this problem?
zonie

 

I don't use grease wads over the powder. I use wheel bearing grease over the ball. It is real stiff stuff and does not run when in the holster like Crisco does.

 

[Rebel]

Zonie, i thought of that too so i tried loading a cylinder without the wads. Same problem though. I don't know but i do know NO MORE ASM guns for me.

 

[rebel727]

I recently started using wads and I don't have that problem loading a Pietta 58 Remmy that does shave lead and an old Rigarmi 58 Remmy that used to shave lead but hasn't in years.

 

[Rebel]

A Pietta '58 Remmy is what i am going to replace this pile of junk with. Should have never sold the last one i had. It was the most accurate revolver i think i have ever shot, centerfire or C&B

 

Yes sir, I believe my Remington by Pietta is the best revolver I have ever shot too. Plenty accurate.

 

[redwing]

I have a Navy Arms made in 68' have always used felt O/P wads. I have never had a problem with the balls moving out of the chambers. I can not imagine the small felt wads having enough force to push the balls out.
I think you have a case of over sized chambers.

 

[Blizzard of '93]

Yes Cooner I second you and Rebel, the Pietta I have is a shooter.

 

[John Taylor]

Something I found many years back on C&B revolvers. Most have an oversize bore in the barrel. I know this is not the problem you are talking about but lets start here. Slug the barrel to see what the groove diameter is ( I have seen some at .460" ). The cylinder bore should be at least .001 over the barrel groove diameter and the barrel should have a forcing cone polished so it will size the ball without leaving lead behind. This may require reaming the cylinder to get to the proper size. After the cylinder is to size I found that it works best to break the sharp edge where the ball enters. No sharp edge that shears lead off, its better to keep all the lead there and compress it, less chance of it moving and better chance that all the balls will weigh the same when shooting. This should help all the balls stay on the target when shooting.
The first time I tried this was about 30 years ago, took a navy model that would not keep all the shots on the target at 25 yards and made it group under 4".