Help with GPR Flintlock.

[trad_bowhunter1965]

I am new to shooting a Flintlock I have shot a lot of percussion muzzleloaders. I just build a GPR and shot it yesterday and had some miss fires so I change out the flint that came with my GPR kit that help. I might be over thinking things here I read here that the torch hole might be too small just looking for some good information. Also how many grains do you use to prime and what size flint do you use?

 

[Gonetocamp]

I use 5/8" x 3/4" Black English flints. Is your GPR .50 or .54 caliber?

 

[Grenadier1758]

A new GPR will come packed with grease. Your first step is to clean all that new gun grease from the barrel and patent breech.

 

[Zonie]

I (and others) think a good place to start with the vent hole is to run a 1/16 inch drill bit thru it.

For reasons no one knows, most vents, as they come from the factory, are a little smaller than 1/16" and increasing their size seems to improve reliability.

As for the amount of priming the rifle needs, no one can give you some exact amount that you should use.

IMO, if there is enough powder to completely cover the bottom of the pan, that is enough.
Others like to use more.
They think filling the pan gives a larger blast when the priming powder ignites so it has a better chance of getting thru the vent hole and igniting the main powder charge.

I think we all agree, if the priming is not enough to cover the bottom of the pan, it stands a good chance of not firing the gun.

 

[trad_bowhunter1965]

thank you all for the information I will keep you posted.

 

[Toomuch51]

also make sure the frizzen is very greese free

 

[SgtErv]

I found that my Lyman lock sparked best with the flint bevel down, too. Had a time figuring out that one. It also saved flint wear.

Filling the pan about halfway worked really well for that lock.

 

[trad_bowhunter1965]

thank you.

 

[SgtErv]

No problem! Just sorry I didn't see this post sooner.

I forgot to mention that for some reason my Lyman does best with the vent picked just about every time, and it does have a 1/16" touch hole

 

[Toomuch51]

I found that my Lyman lock sparked best with the flint bevel down, too. Had a time figuring out that one. It also saved flint wear.

Filling the pan about halfway worked really well for that lock.

Good point, bevel up or bevel down will be different on different guns, your aim is to direct the sparks into the bottom of the pan. :thumbsup:

 

[Darkhorse]

The liners that come with a GPR are almost guaranteed to give poor performance due to the design.
Get yourself a couple of these and see if your ignition doesn't improve. http://www.rmcoxyoke.com/inc/sdetail/rmc_flintlock_touch_hole_liner_replacements/6549/84

 

[Ray-Vigo]

I agree - I'd start at 1/16 and go from there. The only very small touch hole I've had luck with is the one on the White Lightnin' liner. My other liners have a bit larger touch holes, and my plain/traditional holes are about 1/8 holes in the barrel flat.

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

My other liners have a bit larger touch holes, and my plain/traditional holes are about 1/8 holes in the barrel flat.

Wow, 1/8" touch hole? Man I hope no one stsnds next to you wholst shooting :shocked2:

 

[hthomso]

I agree with Darkhorse. I replaced my factory Lyman liner with an RMC liner. Works great. I also fall in the "just enough prime to cover the bottom of the pan" club. :2

 

[AZbpBurner]

The liners that come with a GPR are almost guaranteed to give poor performance due to the design.
Get yourself a couple of these and see if your ignition doesn't improve. http://www.rmcoxyoke.com/inc/sdetail/rmc_flintlock_touch_hole_liner_replacements/6549/84[/quote]

Cone the inside of the Lyman liner with a Dremel and drill out the flash hole to .067" with a #51 bit & they work fine without needing further expenditure.