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Hand forging gun locks

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Brasilikilt

45 Cal.
Joined
Dec 13, 2005
Messages
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Hello everyone!

I was wondering if anyone knew a source of online, or printed information regarding the manufacture of gun locks in a blacksmith forge.

Internet searches on this site, and others has produced little info of value.

Even though it's not of my particular interest time-wise, I figured I would try to first forge, grind, file, drill and tap to produce the bits for a basic matchlock.

I would eventually like to put a Spanish Miquelet lock together, but realize that this may be slightly beyond my abilities right now.

Will basic mild steel work for this?

Anyways...I'm hoping this turns into an interesting thread.

thanks!
 
I have personally forged two complete flint locks from different steel in a coal forge and one complete flintlock in a propane forge. Also dozens of springs and other gun parts. The first two were back in the early 60's before any information was available on how to do it. I studied a lot of old black smithing books from the 1800's.
The information you want is too burdensome to ever put on a forum like this. It would take a month or two out of my life or somebody else's.
I wouldn't mind giving a few tips on different parts though.
There was a book published on the subject back a few years ago. The main info came from Gary brumfield. There were 5 books in the series called Journal of Historical Armsmaking . There are spendy and hard to find. They are the best ever written on the subject.
Mild steel work very well except fot the springs and I prefer tool steel for the frizzens Although it isn't mandatory. Tool steel is more difficult to weld in a forge than mild steel. I forge welded the pan to the plate. You will learn a lot.
When and if you get done you will be a real gunsmith.
 
During this past year I have hand forged six flintlocks and one percussion lock on a coal forge. The locks are of various sizes and made from various types of metals. The one thing that all of them have in common is that they are all made from junk pieces of metal pulled out of a trash bin.
Back in June of this year I posted some photos of a couple of them and at the request of a member I documented the construction of the percussion lock. These can be found in the forum archives. Use the search feature : Search "homemade locks.
 
Hello again

I appreciate you guys taking the time to post your responses....There aren't many, but they have contained more than enough information to better see the processes.

When I get on the forge next, I'll have to try to forge a flintlock cock.
Wild Bill....what size/shape stock do you use for this?
I was thinking 1/2" square stock split at the end to form the bottom jaw and "guide rail" for the top jaw should work out okay.

I'll just have to try and see how it goes.

Thanks again

Iain
 
The last cock I forged was made with a 1" high strength bolt. By the time it was drawn out and shaped, only about 1 3/4" of bolt length had been used. Before you get started, make yourself a good bending fork to fit your hardy hole or a vice. Make the forks about 3/8" apart and 3/4" deep. Good luck.
 
Jerry....Exactly what I was thinking...Rail road spikes.
Bolts are also a good idea, and are typically made of better steel, but a railroad spike has no threads needing to be ground off.

I've been really attracted to this style right here for a few years now.

TheSpanishflintlockmusket1.jpg
 
I have forged several locks over the last year or so. I dont claim to be expert but can get you started on forging a flintlock lock. I dont know anything about a miquelet. I forge fron wrought iron wagon tires and spring steel from hay rake tines. Contact me by PM if you are interested.
 
That's a real nice job. I used hay rake teeth or pichfork teeth for springs. Another thing that makes good springs is old push lawnmower blades.
Some of the cars in the 60's has torsion bars in the trunk. They make good springs and so do window regulator and hood springs. I cast my first mounts out of brass fittings off or carburetor and brake lines.
 
Hey everyone!

I'm going to head out to my blacksmith class and hopefully finish my wife's Christmas present pot hanger.
I'm bringing a few spikes along to hammer on to see if I can forge anything resembling a bottom jaw of a cock.

On another note, I took mental stock of what I have material wise, and figure that I am well stocked with all kinds of good scrap to use.

I have plenty of 1/4" mild steel strips for lock plates.
Bolts and railroad spikes for cocks.

Leaf and coil springs, an old industrial hacksaw blade and possibly even old "Sawzall" blades might be handy for spring stock.

Last but not least, my Gramps gave me about 10 ancient, rusted and worn out Nicholson and Black Diamond files....These will likely work well to put a hard face a soft iron frizzen.

Ah...I also recently acquired a 1/4" X 20 tap and Die with holders. They cut perfect threads on those pins that hold door hinges together. They appear to be an ideal material to use for jaw and lock plate screws.
 
Do you have a source for wrought iron such as a wagon wheel? Nice to forge and weld. I sometimes have wrought that is not the right size. I just make a good fagot weld to build up enough on the end to forge a cock. A spike might be tough, esp. for the first time. The head wont be any particular advantage. The end is needed to draw out the small protrusion against which the top jaw rests. ( I cant recall the name of that section but it is what your thumb touches when you draw the cock back). Forge that out first and make it oversize so it can be used as a handle until you are close to finished shape.
For me, pulling out the jaw and flattening is the challenge. The rest is pretty simple.
 
Hey there

I found a book which has a section detailing the forging of flintlocks. It is called "The Art of blacksmithing" by Alex W. Bealer.

About wrought iron wagon tires. My grandfather has one hanging on a wall outside his garage.
I'm sure if I ask nicely he would let me have it. However, since I have never forged a gun lock and wrought iron being pretty rare and expensive, I should build the first couple of locks with normal mild steel, which for it's low carbon content is actually a type of iron. It's cheap and I have plenty laying around.

I need to stop talking about it and get out there on the forge and start making this thing :)

I will post pictures of my progress.

Thanks for chiming in everyone
 
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