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Hammer misaligned on nipple??

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Old Hawkeye

50 Cal.
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Just picked up an Investarm built Hawken rifle in unfired condition. Hammer does not center on nipple & angle it hits looking from the side is not quite square either. I assume bending the hammer is the way to fix it, but beings in it case hardened I'm not sure it will bend without breaking. Do I heat, bend, then re-quench? What's the best approach to fixing this? Have lots of experience fixing guns, but never did this to a ML before. HELP!!
1604418461530.png

1604418539464.png
 
I would remove the lock first and replace it. Sometimes it will move a little. What you have is a fairly common thing. I think more just ignore it as long as it fires ok. Otherwise do like Carbon 6 said. Some people even bent it without heat but I don't know if I would or not.
 
The lock may not be inlet deep enough on the bottom edge of lock mortise. A few taps with a rubber hammer might bring the bottom of the lock in a tiny bit deeper and move the hammer just enough to center the nose of the hammer over the nipple.

If the lock is inlet fully then its time to consider removing the hammer. Read @Zonie's instructions on taking apart a side hammer lock. (Taking Apart A Side Hammer Lock)

Removing the hammer is an operation that takes a bit of care to prevent marring the surface of the lock plate.
 
It is only a problem if it is not clearing a cap. If it pops caps off ok, no need to "fix" it. The one hammer I have had to bend was done in the manner described, except I did quench it after bending. More to cool it down quicker than any other reason. Have had no need to re-harden it.
 
Before I ‘fixed’ or modified anything I would check how the lock sits in the mortise, as others have suggested. I would also remove the hammer and reinstall it, making sure it went on straight. Might just be an assembly issue.
 
The hammer comes right off by removing the screw. It fits on a square lug that extends out from the plate. The lock plate is seated properly & flush with the outside wood. Just a single bolt through the stock holds the lock in place. So, it looks like it's hammer bending time. I've had this gun completely apart! Had to glass bed & bend the tang for proper fit, rout out the barrel channel, & fit the end cap. It's one of the most poorly fit factory guns I have ever encountered, but it's the "prettiest" ML rifle I've ever had. When I get done everything will be "fit & proper", as they say. Thanks to everyone for their advice & helpful hints. Really appreciate it!
 
Side plate might be too tight
Sits that way with no tension on the bolt. Lock plate is straight & flush. No way one could tighten a bolt to "bend" the lock plate nearly 1/8", as it's way too thick & stiff. It's just the way the stock, barrel & lock are all slightly misfit to create the hammer being off. Will be bending the hammer today. I built a jig yesterday so I can see & measure how much I bend it out & correct the strike angle.
 
Just picked up an Investarm built Hawken rifle in unfired condition. Hammer does not center on nipple & angle it hits looking from the side is not quite square either. I assume bending the hammer is the way to fix it, but beings in it case hardened I'm not sure it will bend without breaking. Do I heat, bend, then re-quench? What's the best approach to fixing this? Have lots of experience fixing guns, but never did this to a ML before. HELP!!
View attachment 48808
View attachment 48809
Maybe my eyes or an optical illusion but to me the breach is not set properly to the barrel.
 
I had this same problem with a TC Seneca 36 caliber. I put it in the gun safe for a couple of years. Took it out this past Sunday tried adjust how the lock plate sat in the stock no dice. I removed the hammer and padded it in a vice and applied heat and bent it slightly. Installed the hammer and started shooting the Seneca. Don't waste time like I did. Was not a difficult process.
 
Indeed. The first photo shows what looks like a substantial gap. Could that be the entire problem?
The breech fits fine. The photo is more an optical illusion created by the bluing wear on the front of the tang from removing the barrel. All flats are aligned & barrel to tang fit is good! The top front of the tang has a slight bevel to it, so I think that is what is showing up in the pic!
 
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