GPR flint size

[mbs]

What size Flintstone do you guys use in your gpr. I picked up a couple TC Flints that don't mount right, I can't keep it parallel in the cock jaws.

 

[jethro224]

IIRC the GPR uses a 3/4 x 3/4 square flint.
I did use T/C flints in mine a few times when I had to. They were a bit small but worked. Keeping them parallel in the jaws sounds like a whole different problem.
Maybe you need a new piece of flint leather?

 

[BullRunBear]

I use 3/4" square flints or 3/4 by 7/8 in the GPR. Never tried the T/C flints. Hand knapped flints may vary a bit.

Jeff

 

[nwtradegun]

are you using leather around the flint.

 

[nwtradegun]

stick with black English flints http://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/141/1

 

[mbs]

I am using leather, which I will replace just in case. I had a couple English flints from a buddy I had to knap the width down some. I want to order some, but didn't know exactly how they are sized. Like 3/4×7/8. Is that 3/4 wide 7/8 long or visa versa?

 

[MSW]

if my memory serves, Track goes width-by-length, so if you have a 3/4 in wide frizzen, the first number would be "3/4" followed by however long the flint needs to be. I like to set mine so there's about 1/8 inch of clearance between the flint and the frizzen when the lock is at half cock. you may have to tinker around and see what works best in your particular gun. (by way of disclaimer, just because it works well in one gun doesn't necessarily mean that the same solution will work in another gun - even if it's the same model, same manufacturer, etc.: these guns are very finicky about what they like and don't like... however, once a solution is found, it's pretty consistent)

my experience is that the thinner the flint leather, the better (more consistent) the performance: less bashing, longer flint life, more sparks and so on.

now the 'fun part:' if you try lead (instead of leather) you might or might not get a better result. some folks say that this will ruin your flints, will ruin your lock, will give you a dread disease, will make you socially awkward, dim- witted, left handed, bald, or a socialist. there are lockmakers who will not stand behind their locks if they determine that you've used lead in the cock. just out of curiosity, I squashed a fifty caliber ball flat in a vise and used the little sheet as a flint wrap. I trimmed away everything that hung over the edge, and I weighed (on my reloading scale) the half dozen flints which I had handy. I cannot remember the exact raw datum, but the gist of the result was that a few of the flints were lighter than the remainder to the extent that they came pretty close, if wrapped in lead, to the weight of their heavier brethren wrapped in leather.

this much over- heated discussion has been ongoing since the invention of this newfangled flint and steel technology

:surrender:

although I have used both leather and lead as a flint wrap, I have found that it really depends on the particular gun: there is no universal solution... you'll need to tinker around with it and see which system works well for you.

I wish you good luck with your project, and (I think it's in Ephesians) Be ye not afraid.
:v

 

[Jamie from Alberta]

now the 'fun part:' if you try lead (instead of leather) you might or might not get a better result. some folks say that this will ruin your flints, will ruin your lock, will give you a dread disease, will make you socially awkward, dim- witted, left handed, bald, or a socialist. there are lockmakers who will not stand behind their locks if they determine that you've used lead in the cock. just out of curiosity, I squashed a fifty caliber ball flat in a vise and used the little sheet as a flint wrap. I trimmed away everything that hung over the edge, and I weighed (on my reloading scale) the half dozen flints which I had handy. I cannot remember the exact raw datum, but the gist of the result was that a few of the flints were lighter than the remainder to the extent that they came pretty close, if wrapped in lead, to the weight of their heavier brethren wrapped in leather.

this much over- heated discussion has been ongoing since the invention of this newfangled flint and steel technology

:surrender:

although I have used both leather and lead as a flint wrap, I have found that it really depends on the particular gun: there is no universal solution... you'll need to tinker around with it and see which system works well for you.

I wish you good luck with your project, and (I think it's in Ephesians) Be ye not afraid.
:v

:metoo:
I got a hold of some auto-body (pure) lead sheets. I cut to fit flint and get a explosion of spark!! Has been working really well for me thus far :wink:

 

[Zonie]

Not that it matters much but auto-body lead is not pure. It is a 80Pb-20Sn (80% Lead- 20% Tin) solder which is uniquely superior to other solders for leading in (filling areas or grooves) sheet metal parts.

Solder has two important temperatures.
The Solidus temperature is the temperature where the lead softens a great deal to a pasty consistency but in this state, it is not a liquid.

Below this solidus temperature the lead has the same physical qualities as cold solder.

The Liquidus temperature is the temperature where the pasty lead actually melts into a fluid.

The solidus and liquidus temperature of many the different lead/tin solders is quite close to being the same. For instance, a 60Pb-40Sn solder enters the solidus temperature range at 361°F and the liquidus range at 370°F.

If you wanted the solder to be pasty so you could push it around and form it with a wooden paddle 60/40 would be almost impossible to be successful with.

The auto-body 80/20 solder on the other hand enters the solidus range at 361°F and remains there until it reaches its liquidus temperature at 535°F.
That gives a temperature range of 174°F to keep the solder in a pasty condition so pushing it around and forming it with a wooden paddle is easy to do.

Don't folks learn the darnedest things on the Muzzleloading Forum? :grin:

 

[AZbpBurner]

stick with black English flints http://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/141/1

I've been using the Tom Fuller Eng 6 flints on all my Lyman/Investarms locks. The 3/4 x 7/8" flint works great with either lead or leather. I always request they send me thinner flints without humps for best fit.

 

[PA16th]

Last year I got a good deal on GPR, it came with a Lyman agate flint. It has not failed to fire once. While I use english flints on my other rifles the agate seems to work just fine on the GPR.
5/8" x 3/4" is the size, held in place by a thin piece of leather. :2

 

[mbs]

I had great success with the original Lyman "flint" the TC looked to be the same size, but it would cock down when I tightened the jaws? Is it possible to over tighten? Got a few hand knapped Flintstone from a buddy and had to trim the width, but they fit great. I tried them in lead also, same results.

 

[ncmtmike]

Zonie,,I now feel truly edumucated!!! :hmm:

 

[G.smith]

My Pedersoli Kentucky Pistol came with leather wrapped flint.
Whereas my Pedersoli Frontier came with Lead. Go figure.
Like MSW I switch back and forth with little noticible difference.