Flint shape and orientation

[spurrpote]

I have two flintlock rifles. Both give me ignition problems too often.

There must be many "flint management experts" on this forum.

A few questions:

• Does the bevel facing the frizen go up or down (Bevel Brothers ... are you seeing this)?
• Must the portion that strikes the frizen always be sharp?
• The flint leading edge must always be parallel to and centered on the frizen. Right?
• Any good instructional videos on flint knapping?
• Before shooting should I always wipe the frizen face with a rubbing alcohol pad? Is there a better solvent?

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

I have two flintlock rifles. Both give me ignition problems too often.

There must be many "flint management experts" on this forum.

A few questions:

• Does the bevel facing the frizen go up or down (Bevel Brothers ... are you seeing this)?
• Must the portion that strikes the frizen always be sharp?
• The flint leading edge must always be parallel to and centered on the frizen. Right?
• Any good instructional videos on flint knapping?
• Before shooting should I always wipe the frizen face with a rubbing alcohol pad? Is there a better solvent?

Lots of do's and don't with flints. All flintlocks are not same so you need to treat each with respect to what makes a lock spark the best. Frizzens vary on hardness and or case hardness. A good frizzen has good sparks, a poor one don't,.... plain and simple. A sharp flint is always the best way to go. Sparks are metal shavings off the frizzen. Sharp will shave better than dull! Belvel up or down is a for me trial and see. Most for me, the bevel is up. In competion when I do not have time to change flint I will sometimes actually move the flint out of parallel with the frizzen. This makes the flint hit the frizzen with the corner which can help get you a few more shots. Always Always Always wipe the flint and frizzen after each shot with water or alcohol. Will it work without doing that? Yes, but not as dependable as when wiping.
Hope this helps
Larry

 

[wiscoaster]

I have two flintlock rifles. Both give me ignition problems too often.

There must be many "flint management experts" on this forum.

A few questions:

• Does the bevel facing the frizen go up or down (Bevel Brothers ... are you seeing this)?
• Must the portion that strikes the frizen always be sharp?
• The flint leading edge must always be parallel to and centered on the frizen. Right?
• Any good instructional videos on flint knapping?
• Before shooting should I always wipe the frizen face with a rubbing alcohol pad? Is there a better solvent?

I'm no "expert" but your questions are common to newbie flintlockers such as I, so I share what I've learned in my limited experience and I'd answer as follows, in order with your list:
1) where it strikes is more important, so mount flint with bevel up or bevel down, wherever it strikes best ... I've got them mounted both ways. You don't want it striking the frizzen too high up.
2) yes.
3) yes.
4) yes, but knapping is a learned skill, with much practice. I've done some rough field knapping just to get a decent spark, and finish shooting, but my flint hasn't always survived my efforts very well. Search YouTube for flint knapping videos.
5) You don't necessarily need alcohol. Anything that dissolves black powder residue. Make yourself some "moose milk". Great as an all-purpose lubricant and cleaner. I even once used some of my moose milk to get the adjacent bench guy's AR-15 running. In the last resort, saliva works just fine. Clean your flint edge the same way also.

 

[Beaverman2]

Yepper, posting this question in the percussion rifle section is whereI'd put it!

 

[Hatchet-Jack]

• Does the bevel facing the frizen go up or down (Bevel Brothers ... are you seeing this)?
• Must the portion that strikes the frizen always be sharp?
• The flint leading edge must always be parallel to and centered on the frizen. Right?
• Any good instructional videos on flint knapping?
• Before shooting should I always wipe the frizen face with a rubbing alcohol pad? Is there a better solvent?

1 - It depends on the lock. Some work better bevel up, some bevel down. A known lock maker said you want the flint to strike the frizzen 2/3 up from the bottom edge. If Bevel down helps with that alignment try it!
2 - Yes it really helps to keep your flint sharp
3 - Yes. When I insert a new flint, I put it in half cock, close the frizzen, then release it from half cock, slowly allow it to close the gap and let the flint edge touch the face of the frizzen. It should line up, no gaps. If gaps put it back in half cock and adjust it. I can pretty much eye ball it.
4 - I'm assuming you mean touching up the edge so you can keep it sharp? I think Black Powder TV on youtube had a video on how to sharpen your flint.
5 - I just wipe the pan, frizzen face and flint with a rag when it starts getting really dirty or if I'm not getting a good spark, but not every time.

 

[wiscoaster]

Yepper, posting this question in the percussion rifle section is whereI'd put it!

I asked a mod to move it, which you also could have done, instead of ragging on the OP's subforum error. It isn't anything most of us, including self, that have done one time or another.

 

[IanH]

I have two flintlock rifles. Both give me ignition problems too often.

There must be many "flint management experts" on this forum.

A few questions:

• Does the bevel facing the frizen go up or down (Bevel Brothers ... are you seeing this)? Depends. It isn't only where the edge touches the frizzen that matters... it is the ANGLE. Hanshi mentions "about" 30⁰ angle between flint centerline and frizzen at point of contat being good, and I agree. The flint edge must scrape down the face and peel off little curls of burning-hot metal to be effective and if the angle is such that the flint glances off (too steep) or bashes squarely into the frizzen (too shallow) and crushes its sharp edge and then bounces and skips down the face, you won't get good flint life or good, if any, sparks.
• Must the portion that strikes the frizen always be sharp? Yes, if you need it to produce sparks reliably, which you say your locks are not.
• The flint leading edge must always be parallel to and centered on the frizen. Right? Yes or it could mar the barrel or may not open the frizzen reliably.
• Any good instructional videos on flint knapping? if you mean knapping flints from rocks, there are five short ones on utoob, two by an English pro, one by an arrowhead knapper, and two by me. If you mean the process of sharpening a flint edge or touching up burnished hard spots, the link posted to BPTV is good.
• Before shooting should I always wipe the frizen face with a rubbing alcohol pad? Is there a better solvent? You should wipe the oil off. Dry rag is enough. If it's humid, after you shoot you'll find wet, black goo all over the pan, pan cover, barrel around the flash hole, and bottom side of the flint that needs wiped off with a dry rag before priming.

^^^ expand the quote for answers.

 

[IanH]

I asked a mod to move it, which you also could have done, instead of ragging on the OP's subforum error. It isn't anything most of us, including self, that have done one time or another.

It's easier to condemn and gripe than to help, plus the usual greeting of new folks here is to embarrass and ridicule them as much as possible so the core group can snicker and feel good about themselves. A whole clique tried awful hard to run me off right away and it almost worked.

 

[Beaverman2]

I asked a mod to move it, which you also could have done, instead of ragging on the OP's subforum error. It isn't anything most of us, including self, that have done one time or another.

and who made you lord of the forum? oh that's right you're the builder extraordinaire who splits stocks with barrel pins!

 

[hanshi]

You can always compare bevel up vs bevel down and see which works best in your lock. But the primary thing with flint mounting is that it must scrape down the frizzen face at approximately 60 degrees give or take. It should never HIT the frizzen face head on.

 

[olskool]

1 - It depends on the lock. Some work better bevel up, some bevel down. A known lock maker said you want the flint to strike the frizzen 2/3 up from the bottom edge. If Bevel down helps with that alignment try it!
2 - Yes it really helps to keep your flint sharp
3 - Yes. When I insert a new flint, I put it in half cock, close the frizzen, then release it from half cock, slowly allow it to close the gap and let the flint edge touch the face of the frizzen. It should line up, no gaps. If gaps put it back in half cock and adjust it. I can pretty much eye ball it.
4 - I'm assuming you mean touching up the edge so you can keep it sharp? I think Black Powder TV on youtube had a video on how to sharpen your flint.
5 - I just wipe the pan, frizzen face and flint with a rag when it starts getting really dirty or if I'm not getting a good spark, but not every time.

does anybody know how Bob McBride is doing? i haven't heard from him in a while. i know he sick i hope he is ok,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

 

[IanH]

does anybody know how Bob McBride is doing? i haven't heard from him in a while. i know he sick i hope he is ok,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Haven't heard. Last I saw was his cancer disclosure update video a while after his surgery, he seemed to be recovering okay physically but something about the experience and maybe other life stuff really took the wind out of his sails.

 

[bigted]

I also hope Bob is doing well. Really enjoy his vid's

 

[olskool]

yep i sure hope he is ok. he is a nice man,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

 

[Howard Pippin]

You can always compare bevel up vs bevel down and see which works best in your lock. But the primary thing with flint mounting is that it must scrape down the frizzen face at approximately 60 degrees give or take. It should never HIT the frizzen face head on.

Hi hanshi.
I often read your post, as I enjoy many of your comments. As to putting the bevel up or down, I had a terrible time trying to keep bevel down as it wouldn't clamp properly and my rifle seem to work better with the edge of the Flint being higher so I took a piece of 1/8 steel, and made a little plate that would fit under the Flint and just keep it a little higher and still clamp it secure. Works like a charm, a little more problem putting in a new Flint to get it aligned with everything else. The little piece of plate steel that I made has a hole in it to keep it on the hold down screw.
Squint

 

[Whitworth]

and who made you lord of the forum? oh that's right you're the builder extraordinaire who splits stocks with barrel pins!

Lighten up Francis.

 

[spurrpote]

Lots of do's and don't with flints. All flintlocks are not same so you need to treat each with respect to what makes a lock spark the best. Frizzens vary on hardness and or case hardness. A good frizzen has good sparks, a poor one don't,.... plain and simple. A sharp flint is always the best way to go. Sparks are metal shavings off the frizzen. Sharp will shave better than dull! Belvel up or down is a for me trial and see. Most for me, the bevel is up. In competion when I do not have time to change flint I will sometimes actually move the flint out of parallel with the frizzen. This makes the flint hit the frizzen with the corner which can help get you a few more shots. Always Always Always wipe the flint and frizzen after each shot with water or alcohol. Will it work without doing that? Yes, but not as dependable as when wiping.
Hope this helps
Larry

Larry,

Thanks for your information.

I truly appreciate all you folks!

I've started a Microsoft WORD document "FLINTLOCK INFORMATION" and will do cut and paste with important information like yours.

Hi hanshi.
I often read your post, as I enjoy many of your comments. As to putting the bevel up or down, I had a terrible time trying to keep bevel down as it wouldn't clamp properly and my rifle seem to work better with the edge of the Flint being higher so I took a piece of 1/8 steel, and made a little plate that would fit under the Flint and just keep it a little higher and still clamp it secure. Works like a charm, a little more problem putting in a new Flint to get it aligned with everything else. The little piece of plate steel that I made has a hole in it to keep it on the hold down screw.
Squint

Howard,

You can always compare bevel up vs bevel down and see which works best in your lock. But the primary thing with flint mounting is that it must scrape down the frizzen face at approximately 60 degrees give or take. It should never HIT the frizzen face head on.

Hanshi,

Thanks for your information. Stuff like that is important to this Pilgrim.

 

[spurrpote]

1 - It depends on the lock. Some work better bevel up, some bevel down. A known lock maker said you want the flint to strike the frizzen 2/3 up from the bottom edge. If Bevel down helps with that alignment try it!
2 - Yes it really helps to keep your flint sharp
3 - Yes. When I insert a new flint, I put it in half cock, close the frizzen, then release it from half cock, slowly allow it to close the gap and let the flint edge touch the face of the frizzen. It should line up, no gaps. If gaps put it back in half cock and adjust it. I can pretty much eye ball it.
4 - I'm assuming you mean touching up the edge so you can keep it sharp? I think Black Powder TV on youtube had a video on how to sharpen your flint.
5 - I just wipe the pan, frizzen face and flint with a rag when it starts getting really dirty or if I'm not getting a good spark, but not every time.

Thanks for your detailed response and the link to the flint video! All very good information for me.

Looks like I need to re-surface and harden the frizzen on my Pennsylvania Long Rifle. It has lots of "divets" that apparently promote poor performance. I'm really at the start of my flintlock learning journey.

 

[Mad L]

Thanks for your detailed response and the link to the flint video! All very good information for me.

Looks like I need to re-surface and harden the frizzen on my Pennsylvania Long Rifle. It has lots of "divets" that apparently promote poor performance. I'm really at the start of my flintlock learning journey.

Your divits could be from improper size flints or improper mounting, also loose flints - I always check my flint after the first shot or two, especially if I just mounted with new leather, and I always check each time I head out to the range.
If you find they are wandering on you, even thou you have tightened all you can, then check the Cock (hammer) jaws - if yours are smooth then you may want to file some 'teeth' (divits) into them so the better hold the leather.

Here is a link to some diagrams from TOW showing how to properly choose your flint size (of course 'bevel up's or 'down' as mentioned will depend on the individual lock itself....all Pedersoli I have seen have been bevel up.

My .50 cal Pedersoli Pennsylvania has been great right out of the box but I have heard many complain about hardness lacking; but not in any of mine (I did buy a spare, but for years now it just sits and waits)

https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/178/1/FLINTS

 

[Daryl Crawford]

Yes, a sharp flint that is the width of your frizzen face is what you want.
I was instructed to make sure the tip of the flint rests centered over the pan when at rest.
Second, pull back the hammer to half cock and lower the frizzen so it covers the pan. The flint should not touch the frizzen and should point at the frizzen face at or above the half way mark up the frizzen face. If too low, you can flip the flint. It shouldn't point directly at the face, but have a slight downward angle.
Third, you should be able to release the hammer from half cock and lower it slightly while holding it. With your other hand raise the frizzen up slightly and you should get a mostly straight line between the flint and frizzen base.
That should get you a long strike/scrape to make sparks and ensure the frizzen isn't blocking them from dropping into the pan while avoiding smashing flints.
The caviot is that individual lock may have varied geometry so this set up won't be quite identical between locks of different style/geometry.
Wiping the face with alcohol is fine, but not always necessary.