Flintlock's Jaw Screw (how tight do I tighten it?)

[musketman]

I will start this topic in order to help our "new to the flintlock" members.

Just how tight do you tighten the screw holding the flint and what do you use to prevent distorting the screw's slot?

You would obviously want the screw tight enough to prevent the flint from slipping and twisting but not enough to shatter the rock or break the screw off in it's threads. But how much is enough?

To prevent the slot in the screw's head from getting distorted, a good fitting screw driver is needed, gunsmith style screwdrivers work well, they have a high ground tip to prevent the shaft's taper from expanding the slot in the screw.

If the flint jaw bolt has a hole through the head's side, then a metal rod can be inserted through it and the screw can be tighten that way, this will keep the face of the screw from being marred or disfigured.

Any other "tips" you members can add will help. :thumbsup:

 

[Many Klatch]

I gave up on using a screw drive a long time ago. I could never seem to get the flint in tight enough. Now I drill a large hole through the top of the screw head on all of my flint guns. Then I make up a "tommy bar" out of an old Allen wrench. An Allen wrench is good steel and won't break, an 1/8' or thicker Allen wrench will be plenty strong. Simply cut off the angled part of an Allen wrench with an abrasive bit in a Dremel tool and stick the remaining part into a piece of antler for a handle. To change flints simply insert the tommy bar and turn the screw.

I find that I can get possibly as much as one or two more complete turns of the screw after I would normally stop with a screw driver. I rarely have a flint get loose with this setup.

Many Klatch

 

[MSW]

after marring several (and replacing one) of these screws, and trashing a few screwdrivers, and gouging a knuckle, and using more than enough bad language to guarantee a boatload of purgatory time...

i do like manyklatch

 

[Vaino]

After a "slip" w/ the screwdriver marring the tang a mite, I now file a hex on the screw head and use a socket wrench. The hex is not obvious and doesn't deform if made to fit the socket. One drawback using a socket wrench....a lot of torque can be applied, so stripping the threads can happen if overdone.....Fred

 

[paulvallandigham]

I marred my screwslot using a screwdriver, so I bought the Hawken Shop Flint tool, and use that much shorter blade to turn the cockscrew on the gun, now. I do believe the problems encountered arise from trying to use a long bladed, standard- handled screwdriver on the slots.

The added leverage you get using that tool also helps to tighten the cockscrew down properly to prevent the flint from loosening in the wrap.

If someone offered replacement cockscrews with holes instead of slots in them, I would probably replace my current cockscrew with one of those. Its just not been enough of a problem for me that I have gone "shoppin'" for appropriately sized, threaded cockscrews with just a hole in the top.

 

[ronrryan]

My practice has been to buy a good "stubby" screwdriver for each gun and/or bag, and file it to precisely fit the appropriate cockscrew. Seems to work for me. Stubbies last a long time and don't cost much.And they probably work for your lockbolts, as well. Good smoke, Ron

 

[sniper68]

I like the store bought stubby or the hand made knapping hammer/screw driver. However I have NEVER seen one that fit the slot properly, generic hand made or store bought. They have to be ground to match the slot. I have done many dozens thru the years, for myself and other shooters, with 100% success. EVERY damaged tang and/or upper wrist that I have seen(or done :redface: :cursing: ) has been done with an ill fitting screwdriver.

 

[mikemeteor]

Is it feasible to drill a hole in a cockscrew that currently doesn't have one ? Or is that part normally not hardened correctly for such a procedure?

 

[paulvallandigham]

It should not be hard to drill. If the screw wad hardened, it can be annealed using an inexpensive Propane tank you can buy at any hardware store, or home center. Once softened drill the hole. To re harden, heat it up to the point where it is non magnetic, hold it there for 15 minutes, and then dunk it into warmed water, or better, oil. Vegetable oil is usually at hand, but if you have some motor oil, it works, too. And It won't hurt to put the oil in your car after its used for this purpose. Then put the screw on a cookie sheet, in the oven at about 350 degrees, and leave it there for and hour or more. Then turn the oven off and let the oven and the screw cool slowly. It should be hard, but tempered and will not break. The screw will have a black finish to it from the oil quench, but that seems to look pretty good, and resists rust very well. If you don't like, use a wire brush on a hand drill or grinder to take it off, and then simply brown or blue it to match your Cock and Action.

 

[gjkershul]

I concur with Many Klatch. My first Bess(1988) was Japanese-great barrel, damn I wish I had not gotten rid of it- and the cock screw did not have a hole in it. With very limted hand tool experience at that time I undertook drilling a hole in a round surface. I eventually got one through without too much buggering and used an allen wrench to keep the flint tight. About then I heard about using sheet lead to wrap the flint which was a help keeping the flint functional during a long course of fire.
Pedersoli Besses have the hole in the cock screw as issued.

 

[tg]

I use a homemade L shaped turn key type thingy that works well I did not make it it came with a gun I picked up used, the blade ends have been shaped and hardened and fit the slot on the hammer real snug and have yet to twist out.

 

[mazo kid]

A couple of my cock screws had holes in them...now they ALL do. I file a small flat opposite the slot and use a 1/8" bit to drill the hole. I made a tool as Many Klatch suggested (he told me about this a couple of years ago) and it works very well, I feel much more confident in tightening the screw and no chance of buggering some part of a substantial investment.

 

[spudnut]

Some of the older type musket tools, Like a Pickering tool work nice as their stubby and don't tend to slip and you can really reef on em good like a tommy bar.

 

[roundball]

TC's jaw screws have the hole through them for a small torque bar TC makes for that purpose...I carry a torque bar & a pan brush tethered in a shirt pocket while hunting but I've never used the bar...

 

[flashpanner]

Correct fittting screw driver helps, but I case harden all of my screws to keep them from getting buggered. I use Kasenit, available from TOTW, and other suppliers as well. I "soak" the cock screw submersed in Kaseinti for 30 minutes and then quench. Never had it get distorted from tightening with proper driver.

 

[roundball]

Never had it get distorted from tightening with proper driver.

Well yeah...neither have I :grin:

 

[brubincam]

-----I took one of the short wide screw drivers and ground the blade to the same thickness the whole length of the blade--when tightening the screw,instead of putting the blade in from the top I drop the screwdriver blade into the slot sideways and get very good leverage--instead of turning --use side leverage-- without damaging the slot or drilling holes----JUST THE WAY I DO IT----- :thumbsup: :hatsoff: :thumbsup:

 

[brubincam]

-----small and carries in bag easy-----

 

[musketman]

I use a metal bar with a small forged loop on the other end, then this is laced with leather to the handle of my small brass flint knapping hammer.

 

[flaming canvas]

I use one of the three tool flintlock sets from panther primitives (turnscrew, pick and knapping hammer). I put my short starter through the loop on the screw driver for extra leverage.

Instead of grinding the screwdriver down, I cut the notch in the screw a little wider.

So far, so good.