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First time gun owner. Can't seem tighten down the stone in my jaws.

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Hey guys! Really appreciate the help! Tried to make a couple videos showcasing the problem.



and this one


Take a picture of the flint in the Jaws. you keep playing with the top jaw and the screw without having a flint in it. The one time you show a flint in the jaws it doesn't look like it is far enough back for the jaws to even grip it. It looks more like operator error than anything being wrong with the jaws or the screw. The thickest part of the flint has to be in the jaws before it can be tightened down.
 
One thing about leather and lead wraps;
You need to trim them pretty close to the edge of the front of the top jaw, otherwise, as the flint scrapes its' way down the frizzen the leather above the flint will engage the frizzen and push the flint off the lower part of the frizzen and you won't get any sparks from that region.
 
Hell, if they're 1/4 x 28 then that's an easy fix. Most any hardware store stocks taps and dies for that size. I just assumed since they're European made guns, or at least used to be(I honestly don't know where they're made now. The one I have was made in Italy), I'm sure they use metric equivalent sizes.
Pro Tip: many lock parts are case-hardened, hardware store taps are HSS (high speed steel) and inferior to High Carbon taps.
HSS Really suck if they break off in the hole.
Here’s some great advice from TotW:

Gunsmithing tip: We prefer high carbon steel taps for gunsmithing. Be careful using HSS (high speed steel) taps when tapping blind holes. If a HSS tap breaks, it must be "burned" out using an EDM tap burner, a costly process! If broken, Track's high carbon steel taps can be fractured and picked out using a drift punch.”
 
Seems to me most any of us with any flintlock experience can figure out that a stone is a flint without much thought. What the heck else would it be?
And, if we let it lie, some folks with less experience will read it and we can have some "fun" 8 page posts figuring out and arguing about why their new gun doesn't spark or fire.

😃
 
Looks to me like your threads are stripped/cross threaded on the bottom jaw. Your jaw bolt seems to wobble a lot when your trying to tighten it and that would indicate a cross threaded jaw bolt or hole. As others mentioned the jaw bolt/screw seems to have threads missing as well.
 
Pro Tip: many lock parts are case-hardened, hardware store taps are HSS (high speed steel) and inferior to High Carbon taps.
HSS Really suck if they break off in the hole.
Here’s some great advice from TotW:

Gunsmithing tip: We prefer high carbon steel taps for gunsmithing. Be careful using HSS (high speed steel) taps when tapping blind holes. If a HSS tap breaks, it must be "burned" out using an EDM tap burner, a costly process! If broken, Track's high carbon steel taps can be fractured and picked out using a drift punch.”
Was not aware there are different types of steels used for taps. You never stop learning.

As to the OPs issue, he could always order a new cock for the lock. The cock is easily replaced. Or, contact Lyman, maybe they could make good on a defect, and send this man a replacement.
 
Howdy everyone!
I hate to necro a dead thread, but I finally got a break from work after half a year, and tinkered with my gun this week.

I figured out the problem!
At the time of this problem, I took apart and cleaned my new rifle, then reassembled her.

Well, what I didn't know was you aren't supposed to "dry fire" the weapon without a flint. Please, forgive my stupidity.

Doing so caused the jaw clamp to hit the frizzen, and after doing that a couple of times to check the action I never noticed that this bent the jaw screw a bit.

Hence, the new problem tightening and untightening because it wasn't straight anymore.

So, I whacked the manure out of it with my hammer and now it works again! Hurray! Or it's at least good enough to screw back in and hold the flint. It's still a pain in the ass because of how wonky it still is.

I've ordered a new jaw screw from ToTW for a LGPR that'll be here in a couple days because, what the heck it was only $7 to fix a dumb mistake.

Thank you everyone for your responses, and I'm sorry it took so long to get feedback! Thank you, everyone!
 
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