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First off all, thanks for all tips you folks have published.

I have made some changes that you folks told me on my Pedersoli flintlock and it seems to work petty good now. :thumbsup:

Here are some pictures if someone is interested.

I grinded the ridges out and placed the frizzen in a large potato so the rest of it shouldn’t get softer when I hardened the grinded area.
[url] http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/johanj/flinta/flint_4.jpg[/url]

I heated the frizzen and put some stuff named “blodlut salt” in Swedish, it will make the surface hard. The “blodlut salt” is very dangerous to breathe so very good ventilation is a must.
[url] http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/johanj/flinta/flint_2.jpg[/url]

I was to chicken to bend the hammer so I made a wedge to change the angle between the flint and the frissen.
[url] http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/johanj/flinta/flint_1.jpg[/url]

The flint still made sharp marks on the frizzen.[url] http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/johanj/flinta/flint_3.jpg[/url]

So I checked the main and the frizzen spring tensions and changed them to what I had been told here on the forum. After about 60 shots the frizzen looks like this, what do you folks think, looks it ok?[url] http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/johanj/flinta/flinta_5.jpg[/url]


Thank you all very much for share your knowledge.

/Johan
 
Last edited by a moderator:
...love the photography...can't wait to try the potato trick...your frizzen still looks a litle beat up to me, have you tried a hand knapped english flint?... those cut agates might be too hard?
 
Frizzens get pretty beat up looking, yet keep on ticking & sparking long afterwards. I have had a couple of real no spark bummers, wound up putting vertical serrations in the frizzen face, they finally wore out after a few years, and thousands of shots.
 
How about regrinding that face, as in your first picture, and then heat it up to red hot, and quench in oil to harden it. Then, just put it on a cookie sheet in your oven at 450 degrees for 2 hours to temper it, and let it cool down over night. I think you will get better sparks, and the frizzen will take the blows from your flint better. From what I see is being done to your frizzen now, you wore right through that thin case hardening with the first blows with your flint.

You should not have grooves running across the face of the frizzen. You should see strokes from the point of contact to the bottom of the frizzen face from SCRAPING metal off the face, and not gouging it. The horizontal grooves indicate the frizzen is gouging the frizzen face, which means it is still not hitting the frizzen at the correct downward pitch or angle, or the frizzen is too soft. I think the problem here is the frizzen is not properly hardened.

The bevel on that cut flint, or agate, is wrong, and not giving you the clearance you need. That should not be a problem now you are using the black flints from England.
 

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