NO. Your flint is striking too high on the frizzen, and too square to the frizzen face. You need to bend the cock downward so that you create a 55-60 degree angle between a line leading along the bottom jaw of the cock to the frizzen face. Use a plastic protractor, and put the center point at the face of the frizzen where you flint touches. The bottom edge of the flint should be parallel and even with the top edge of the cock jaw it sits on. You have the classic washboard groove in your frizzen's face that comes from not having the flint striking the frizzen on a stroking angle. The flint is suppose to slice and throw bits of steel from the face of the frizzen into the pan. Because the frizzen is hardened, and tempered these bits of steel will be red hot - better white hot- when they leave the frizzen.
I also see that you are wrapping your cut flints with leather. This is also a No-no. The leather acts as a shock absorber and allows the edge to bounce back away from the frizzen instead of cutting slivers of steel in one clean stroke. This condition allows steel bits to clog the edge, and cause misfires. It also makes you spend a lot of time knapping away valuable flints when a properly set up lock would allow you to shoot without concern for knapping at all.
Instead, wrap your flint with lead, as in a lead ball, that you hammer flat and trim to size. Use a spent ball from the backstop to save your good ones. Make up a couple of lead strips and keep the extra in your flint wrap in your possibles bag. 1/16" is thin enough to work, yet give you enough lead that you can let the teeth in the jaws of the cock grab the lead well, while conforming the top wrap to the smooth surfaces of the flint, holding it firmly in place. The extra weight of the lead wrap will help the flint drive through the surface of the frizzen cutting steel in a continuous slicing motion and throw the bits into the powder while they are white hot!
Finally, you should use a trigger gauge to measure the tension of the springs in the lock. The frizzen spring, or feather spring, only has to hold the frizzen closed when you are shooting upside down! 2.5 to 3 lbs. is more than enough tension to get this done. I bet that featherspring on your gun will test out over 10 lb., easy. The real test of a well set up lock is to fire the gun without the featherspring in place. The frizzen should still spark and the cock throw the sparks into the pan without the featherspring holding the frizzen.
The mainspring should be no more than 10 lbs. These are usually 30 lbs and more. You will need a bathroom scale to measure these, as most trigger gauges don't go that high. Just put the gun butt down, and empty, of course, on the bathroom scale and not the measured weight of the gun. Then slow but consistently put pressure on the cock until it is held by the full cock notch. Record the weight on the scale when you reach that point, then subtract the weight of the gun, and you have the spring tension of the main spring. When the springs are too strong for the job they are being asked to do, they demolish flints, ruin frizzen faces, and rattle and tickle the gun so its next to impossible to hold the gun off hand for any good shooting. Its even hard to hold these well using a bench rest. Reduce the spring, by grinding filing, etc slowly using your fingertips to keep a read on how hot the spring is getting, and cooling it down frequently. I use slow rpm grinders and sandering belts to remove spring stock, taking my time, and testing the springs in the lock to see how much change in weight I have made as I remove material. You want the upper arm on the mainspring to flex its whole length, and not just the tip of it. The bottom arm of a V-spring does not flex. Polish the contact point where the springs press against the frizzen toe, or on the tumbler for the main spring, and make sure there are no other parts of the lock rubbing against the lock plate. If you find rub marks, figure out what is rubbing and file or grind it away. You want the parts of the lock to move freely and smoothly, without drag. That is how you get a faster lock time.
widen the pan in your lock with a dremel tool and grinding bit and then polish the bottom of the pan mirror smooth. This prevents the surface from holding residue or moisture, and makes it easy and fast to clean with a swipe of your thumb and a cleaning patch. The wider pan will allow ignition of the prime to take place even if your flint is getting short, and the sparks fall towards the rear of the pan, and not in the center. About every 20 shots, you can expect to have to move your flint forward, and use a twig to wedge behind the lead wrap to keep it forward in the cock's jaws. I get 60-80 shots from the front edge, and maybe another 20-40 from the back edge before I have to replace the flint altogether. I could get more, but the flint becomes too short to hold securely in the jaws. My " done " flints are almost square in shape, to give you an idea of how much use you should expect before changing them. Throw the leavings away. You have gotten your money's worth.
What to do with this frizzen" . Well, first I would get a propane or accetylene torch to heat up the neck of that cock and bend it forward to that 55 degree angle. Then I would regrind the surface of that frizzen to smooth it out, although that groove is so deep I don't think I would bother. Since the bending of the cock will have the flint hitting lower, you can ignore the groove. You might also be able to obtain a replacement frizzen from Traditions, since they are still marketing this rifle. I like the flint to strike from 1/2 to 1/3 from the bottom of the frizzen so that it will pop the frizzen up to clear a route to the priming pan for the sparks at the right time. There are better designed modern locks than you show on that rifle. Retemper the frizzen by putting it on a baking sheet( cookie sheet to some) in your oven at 450 and leave it for 2 hours. Let it cool down over night. It should give you nice sparks after the retempering.
