I am finishing my Tennessee rifle kit and am working on the barrel. I have draw filed it and then used 240 and 320 paper to smooth it down. My question is how smooth do you get the barrel before finishing. It is not glass smooth as I can still see small lines in the metal, but very small. I am going to do the finish like Mike did in the rifle building tutorial here. LMF agent in a sweat box for a few days, blueing, then buff off with steel wool for that old look. Thanks.
-
Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.
We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.
Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103
Finish On My Barrel
- Thread starter nuttbush
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
Mike Brooks
Cannon
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2005
- Messages
- 6,686
- Reaction score
- 28
You already went too far. Just draw filing is plenty. Don't forget to knock off the corners if you're looking for an ged appearance. :thumbsup:
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2004
- Messages
- 14,767
- Reaction score
- 314
I've been amazed about a couple of things working with LMF. The first is how it seems to "fill in" scratches and make them go away. The second is how much longer it takes a smoother barrel to brown. Next time I'm not going below 240 on the paper, and I bet Mike is right about simply stopping at the draw filing.
I used 320 on my Lyman kit mostlyto knock down the proud metal around the lettering on the barrel, and in the process took the scratches/milling marks on the barrel to just a little smoother than that on my Lyman production gun. I'm about finished with the process now, and the barrel has really filled in and smoothed. But it has taken a whole lot longer than the buttplate and trigger guard which I finished with 240. AND THEY LOOK JUST AS SMOOTH NOW! And even starting with the barrel not much smoother than the production rifle, there are virtually no scratches visible. Looks much better than the production version.
I'll probably draw file the next one lightly to take care of the raised metal on the barrel lettering, but I'll quit there. BTW- with the proud metal gone around the lettering it really does drop back and almost disappear. I know some guys draw file down far enough to get rid of it entirely, but I sure won't bother. I'm not trying to fool anyone into thinking it's a "real" Hawken, and I can live with the lettering when it's less obvious like mine turned out.
I used 320 on my Lyman kit mostlyto knock down the proud metal around the lettering on the barrel, and in the process took the scratches/milling marks on the barrel to just a little smoother than that on my Lyman production gun. I'm about finished with the process now, and the barrel has really filled in and smoothed. But it has taken a whole lot longer than the buttplate and trigger guard which I finished with 240. AND THEY LOOK JUST AS SMOOTH NOW! And even starting with the barrel not much smoother than the production rifle, there are virtually no scratches visible. Looks much better than the production version.
I'll probably draw file the next one lightly to take care of the raised metal on the barrel lettering, but I'll quit there. BTW- with the proud metal gone around the lettering it really does drop back and almost disappear. I know some guys draw file down far enough to get rid of it entirely, but I sure won't bother. I'm not trying to fool anyone into thinking it's a "real" Hawken, and I can live with the lettering when it's less obvious like mine turned out.
Personally, I think I'd take it back to 240 grit if you're going to brown it. Browning, being rust, will lightly etch the metal enough to cover scratches so it doesn't need to be highly polished. Anything finer than 240 takes longer for the brown to take and you risk getting some pitting while you wait. Lesson learned the hard way! 
If you're rust bluing, you can get away with 320, depending on the solution you use. I use Mark Lee and 320 is ideal for it. Probably still not needed though, as the process gives the metal a satin sheen that removes fine scratches anyway.
If you're rust bluing, you can get away with 320, depending on the solution you use. I use Mark Lee and 320 is ideal for it. Probably still not needed though, as the process gives the metal a satin sheen that removes fine scratches anyway.
Thanks Pards,
I appreciate the advice. I rounded off the edges on my barrel like Mike said and while doing that I hit the finish with the 240 and a Scotch Brite pad to rough it up a little. I'm going to leave it there and finish it.
I am actually looking for the pitted aged look like Mike's on the Tutorial. LMF and the Sweatbox next. I'll post pics when done as this has been a community effort. Thanks again.
Alamosa
I appreciate the advice. I rounded off the edges on my barrel like Mike said and while doing that I hit the finish with the 240 and a Scotch Brite pad to rough it up a little. I'm going to leave it there and finish it.
I am actually looking for the pitted aged look like Mike's on the Tutorial. LMF and the Sweatbox next. I'll post pics when done as this has been a community effort. Thanks again.
Alamosa
cowpoke1955
58 Cal.
- Joined
- Oct 23, 2006
- Messages
- 2,090
- Reaction score
- 6
I agree with BrownBear. After draw filing, 240 and a light touch of 320 I could still see fine scratches. The stamped lettering was still there, but smooth to the touch. After browning with LMF everything disappeared like magic. The lettering is just barely visible. I was very pleased. I think next time I'll do as Mike suggested. Brown after draw filing.
