Dye the back of shoulder straps?

[MIOutdoorsman]

For our bag-makers out there...

I'm building my second hunter's bag currently, trying to come close to period as possible, though admittedly I'm using some Axis hide that would not have been available back in the day, because it's meaningful to me (and attractive).

My question has to do with whether or not people back then--or today--dye the BACK side of the shoulder strap or not?

In my case, the shoulder strap is made from thicker leather than the bag itself. I cheated on this and purchased perfectly cut strips of leather from Tandy--roughly the thickness of a nice belt. The back side is rough, as usual, but the front seemed to dye nicely and close in color to the bag itself even though they are cut from different hides.

Do people also dye the backs of these over-the-shoulder bag straps?? I can see it going both ways. Without the dye, there's no risk of the dye leaching into clothing, and the leather may accept more leather conditioner too, making it potentially more supple. But it'll obviously look unfinished on the back side too.

What say the esteemed bag-makers here?? :bow:

 

[SpottedBull]

I have done it both ways, actually. I usually ask the customer now if they want the strap or even the bag dyed. It seems to me that the back of the strap takes a lot more dye to get it looking right.

But I prefer mine to not be dyed.

 

[BrownBear]

I'll go the other way. I prefer them dyed, especially when using darker dyes. Brushing on the dye eats a lot of dye, but using an air brush it seems to take no more dye than the front.

 

[Artificer]

Well, I am only a slightly advanced amateur, but here's my take on it.

Since you are using Veg Tanned Leather, I would dye the smooth top of the leather and the sides of the straps. This even though in the period, they probably did not dye the sides of the straps in the period. However, I think it just looks better with the sides dyed as well as the top/smooth side. This way normally all sides of the leather commonly seen when you wear it, are dyed and look finished.

Note: Stay AWAY from "Edge Kote" and similar products for dyeing the sides of the straps. While that is a good product to use on the seam for holsters, that product is too stiff for this usage.

Brown Bear has mentioned in the past that he prefers to dye the rough/flesh side as well.

The one thing I would be concerned about is not "soaking" the rough/flesh side with dye, as it will make it harder to put a oil coat on the rough/flesh side and add thin oil coats there in the future - to preserve and keep the leather supple.

If I were going to dye the flesh side at all, I might mix a little dye into the preservative oil and color/oil the back of the strap that way, both at the same time.

Gus

 

[Artificer]

I'll go the other way. I prefer them dyed, especially when using darker dyes. Brushing on the dye eats a lot of dye, but using an air brush it seems to take no more dye than the front.

You came in while I was typing my post above.

An air brush won't soak the flesh side with dye, either.

Have you ever tried mixing dye with the preservative oil on the flesh side?

Gus

 

[BrownBear]

Have you ever tried mixing dye with the preservative oil on the flesh side?

Never have. I've always been happy to treat the leather after dying, so never experimented with blending dyes and oils. Seems like it would be fraught with solvency and mixing issues until you found just the right combo, so I've steered clear of it. Might not be an issue at all, but I know from attempts at mixing dyes and stains with wood finishes and others, the wrong combo is a very bad thing.

Let us know if you try it, because I'm always curious.

 

[Brokennock]

I'm hardly an "esteemed bag maker," but I'll thow in my 2 cents, and probably owe you change. I've done both and like both and have not had trouble soaking in sno-seal or mink oil post dye job. Carefull with bleed through if leaving the back undone and dying after punching holes or cutting button holes.
Also, Tandy sells 2 thicknesses of those precut strips, the thinner of the 2 works out nicely, but only comes in the shorter of the 2 lengths they offer the heavier thickness in. Ive been using the thinner one and like it, but, I've been "breaking" the stiffness by clamping a big square shafted screw driver in my bench vise, folding the strap around it with an end in each hand and working the strap back and forth over/around the steel. I do this pre and post finish, it also helps cut any gloss of the dye.

 

[Artificer]

Have you ever tried mixing dye with the preservative oil on the flesh side?

Never have. I've always been happy to treat the leather after dying, so never experimented with blending dyes and oils. Seems like it would be fraught with solvency and mixing issues until you found just the right combo, so I've steered clear of it. Might not be an issue at all, but I know from attempts at mixing dyes and stains with wood finishes and others, the wrong combo is a very bad thing.

Let us know if you try it, because I'm always curious.

I have actually mixed small amounts of Fiebing's Leather Dye with Tru Oil for gun stocks and had no issues with it.

However, I have not mixed leather dye with traditional leather preservative oils or Lexol. Solid/powdered pigments might work better in traditional oils. Sounds like a neat experiment to try on some scrap leather.

Gus

 

[Capt. Jas.]

I have dyed the back but don't prefer it. Most today in modern leather work who would dye the flesh use air or dip.
As far as dye to the oils... I have done it and most of the time I ended up with a sticky mesa. There are harness oils on the market with color added though.

 

[BrownBear]

As far as dye to the oils... I have done it and most of the time I ended up with a sticky mesa.

That was my fear and instinct.

I suspect I'd be happiest with a dip for leathers, but darned. Does that ever call for a lotta dye. I buy Fiebings by the quart, but I bet I could go through one of those in no time at all.

 

[Artificer]

Thank you James.

Gus

 

[Artificer]

As far as dye to the oils... I have done it and most of the time I ended up with a sticky mesa.

That was my fear and instinct.

I suspect I'd be happiest with a dip for leathers, but darned. Does that ever call for a lotta dye. I buy Fiebings by the quart, but I bet I could go through one of those in no time at all.

I have never used an air brush or air cylinder device to dye leather.

I have used the "dip method" to dye leather, but it was a VERY long time ago and only on my second or third leather project. It was a good thing I was dyeing the leather black, as I could buy Fiebing's USMC Black Leather dye for about half to 2/3's the price in the PX, compared to what it cost in most stores. I used it on Veg tanned leather I purchased from Tandy to make some smaller AWI period items and at least one period belt.

However, the problem I ran into and especially on the belt, was the fact that I found it very difficult to work preservative oil into the flesh side after it had been "dip dyed" and well soaked into the leather. Because of that, that belt only lasted one or two seasons before it cracked all over the place and I had to scrap it and make another.

Gus

 

[BrownBear]

...very difficult to work preservative oil into the flesh side after it had been "dip dyed" and well soaked into the leather.

Coupla things help me.

After dying and drying, leather can be stiffened as though it has been wet. I work it real good to soften it.

After that I use heat. Smear on extra preservative oil, then hit it with the heat. Repeat as needed until you have the penetration you want. My heat source? My wife's period-correct hair dryer. When she's not home, of course! :rotf:

 

[Artificer]

Never thought about using a hair dryer to get the oil to penetrate. Good Tip.

Gus

 

[BrownBear]

You can do much the same by setting it out in the hot sun for a few hours or putting it in front of the wood stove. My problem is that no one ever uses the words "hot" and "sun" in the same sentence with Alaska! :rotf:

 

[MIOutdoorsman]

Thanks everyone. For this strap, I’ve decided on just dying the smooth side and the edges. I really do want to soften the strap a bit, so I’ll try working in some oil with a “period~appropriate” hairdryer :thumbsup:

Rob