Got a question the other day from someone new to leather working about cutting a perfectly straight line in their garment leather.
Maybe these tips might help any new to leather folks here on the forum too !
First thing I would suggest is to buy a pair of good quality leather shears. Then use them only for your leather. If you can avoid cutting threads, paper patterns, cloth etc and only use them on leather they will stay sharp and cut clean.
I have a pair of Ginger chromium 8” shears purchased in the 1970’s that have yet to need sharpening. And no they haven’t seen little use
. They’ve been extremely well used .
Keep the joint tight and they will tend to “self sharpen and self hone “
if you’re only using them on leather..
I’ve posted a picture below of the blades open and one of them closed .
When closed you can see daylight between the edges even though the tips are firmly together.That means as long as the joint is good and tight the edges are rubbing each other firmly along their length as they close . Very close inspection by looking down the length of each blade when open will reveal that each blade is ever so slightly bent towards the other .
That and only cutting leather is what keeps them self sharpened.
All this is nothing new or enlightening to you folks used to working with leather but This little tidbit might shorten the learning curve for someone just starting out .
Strap cutters are another great option for straight lines but when cutting soft garment leather you may often find your leather wanting to “wrinkle” inside the cutter even with the thickness adjustment firmly set .
This results in slight variation in width of your cut . They are however the go to tool for stiffer or thicker leather.
So how do you cut a perfect straight line in thin garment leather?
I’m sure there are others out there with great suggestions. The way that works for me is to spread the leather flat on a big enough table ( maybe commandeer the dining room table)
and weigh in down a bit so it won’t slide around too easily. A smooth floor would work too .
Smooth out your leather so it’s good and flat . The flatter it is the straight you can line it . Use a straight edge that has just a bit of weight to it so there’s less chance of movement when you draw a line. I like to use pencil on the suede side or a fine steel point if I need to do layouts on the flesh side . Lay the pencil or steel point tip slightly angled back towards you and into the straight edge and drag the tip back to you while keeping firm pressure down on the straight edge .
A long steel measuring stick or a long steel contractors level would make a great straight edge.
If you rotate the pencil as you’re drawing it to you it will leave a better mark . A fine tip Sharpie will work too but those marks might be visible later depending on your pattern. And they can leave a wider line on some hides.
Now you’re ready to cut ! A little tension on the hide will help . As you start to cut along your line gently tug the smaller piece away from the main hide . This is where some weight on the main hide will help to keep it in place . Use the middle couple inches of the shears to do the cutting. The shears are partially open throughout the entire cut . Try to avoid using them completely open with the leather jammed into the back of the jaws and try to avoid closing the tips all the way. Just use that middle section of the jaws , go slow and watch the upper blade walk right down the line.
They do make left handed shears too . Worth every penny!
Have fun making your project!!
If you get stuck on anything shoot me a pm. Be glad to help explain any leather questions .
Maybe these tips might help any new to leather folks here on the forum too !
First thing I would suggest is to buy a pair of good quality leather shears. Then use them only for your leather. If you can avoid cutting threads, paper patterns, cloth etc and only use them on leather they will stay sharp and cut clean.
I have a pair of Ginger chromium 8” shears purchased in the 1970’s that have yet to need sharpening. And no they haven’t seen little use
. They’ve been extremely well used . Keep the joint tight and they will tend to “self sharpen and self hone “
if you’re only using them on leather..
I’ve posted a picture below of the blades open and one of them closed .
When closed you can see daylight between the edges even though the tips are firmly together.That means as long as the joint is good and tight the edges are rubbing each other firmly along their length as they close . Very close inspection by looking down the length of each blade when open will reveal that each blade is ever so slightly bent towards the other .
That and only cutting leather is what keeps them self sharpened.
All this is nothing new or enlightening to you folks used to working with leather but This little tidbit might shorten the learning curve for someone just starting out .
Strap cutters are another great option for straight lines but when cutting soft garment leather you may often find your leather wanting to “wrinkle” inside the cutter even with the thickness adjustment firmly set .
This results in slight variation in width of your cut . They are however the go to tool for stiffer or thicker leather.
So how do you cut a perfect straight line in thin garment leather?
I’m sure there are others out there with great suggestions. The way that works for me is to spread the leather flat on a big enough table ( maybe commandeer the dining room table)
and weigh in down a bit so it won’t slide around too easily. A smooth floor would work too . Smooth out your leather so it’s good and flat . The flatter it is the straight you can line it . Use a straight edge that has just a bit of weight to it so there’s less chance of movement when you draw a line. I like to use pencil on the suede side or a fine steel point if I need to do layouts on the flesh side . Lay the pencil or steel point tip slightly angled back towards you and into the straight edge and drag the tip back to you while keeping firm pressure down on the straight edge .
A long steel measuring stick or a long steel contractors level would make a great straight edge.
If you rotate the pencil as you’re drawing it to you it will leave a better mark . A fine tip Sharpie will work too but those marks might be visible later depending on your pattern. And they can leave a wider line on some hides.
Now you’re ready to cut ! A little tension on the hide will help . As you start to cut along your line gently tug the smaller piece away from the main hide . This is where some weight on the main hide will help to keep it in place . Use the middle couple inches of the shears to do the cutting. The shears are partially open throughout the entire cut . Try to avoid using them completely open with the leather jammed into the back of the jaws and try to avoid closing the tips all the way. Just use that middle section of the jaws , go slow and watch the upper blade walk right down the line.
They do make left handed shears too . Worth every penny!
Have fun making your project!!
If you get stuck on anything shoot me a pm. Be glad to help explain any leather questions .
