Dunlap Woodcraft Rifle Kits

[gonzomann]

Tanstaafl,

I am still pondering whether to go iron or brass on the trimmings. I like the looks of both, but I like the thought of the less visible iron in the field. I had a question for you about the build - I have heard the mainsprings are very wide on the large siler locks and may need slimming down to keep from breaking into the barrel or ramrod channel with the inlet. Did you run into any problems with that? Also, what kind of finish did you use on the stock? Looks great.

 

[rich pierce]

Brass does not need to shine any more than iron and (I hesitate to add) Lancaster rifles were never mounted in iron, if that is a consideration (does not need to be).

 

[TANSTAAFL]

As rich pierce points out, brass tarnishes readily, (after shooting, wipe with your dirty cleaning tow or patches) and that is the way I prefer it, photo was of new build, no longer bright brass.

I had no problems as to room for installing lock and experienced no breakthrough.

As to the finish, I wanted it stained dark & used a vinegar/ steel wool combo (there are numerous vinegar formulas) with several applications until dark enough. I then followed with several hand rubbed applications of pure Tung oil.

 

[RDavidP]

All this talk and pretty pictures has made me want to get one of these. Also this place is not that far from me. The only kit gun I have put together so far has been a Lyman's Plains Pistol. That was just a sand the stock, stain it, blue the metal, put in the screws kit. Is there alot of woodwork involved in finishing this kit? I don't have any woodwork experience, so I want to get a kit that has a little bit of work involved but nothing too advanced right now.

 

[3 stinky dogs]

Yes. I dabble in cabnet making and when I got my Kit from TOTW was intemidated, It is better to have a book or two to refrence while building. I have the one by chuck dixion. It looks bad when you open the box and see what you have to do, but you will be able to get going . Go slow and a nice gun will happen. I got mu lock and barrel done with no problem. Just go S-L-O-W !

 

[barebackjack]

3 stinky dogs is right ....Slow and steady.

Ive only build a lyman GPR kit. I just got my lehigh stock from pecatonica and will start on it as soon as it warms up a bit (couple weeks fingers crossed).

I know when I did my lyman kit, i would think "man i cant wait to finish so I can shoot it", and now its "man I need something to build". Fight the urge to go fast.

If the dunlap kits are anything like pecatonica kits, and you have basic woodworking skills and are somewhat mechanicaly inclined, you will have no problems if done slowly and researched thoroughly.

 

[TANSTAAFL]

This will not be a slap the parts together and go project, but with care it should not be that hard for a first time builder.

I think one can get full sized drawings from TOW. Look in Member's resources here for Mike Brook's excellent tutorial on a complete build.


Read up, know what the end result should be, go slow, consider each step carefully before proceeding, if in doubt about anything, ask away with questions here on the forum.

 

[Dave W]

The first kit that I built was a lefty Haines C weight in 50 Cal flint from Dunlap. Since then I have built a righthand B weight 50 Cal flint. Both turned out as good shooters and came with better wood than expected. For hunting, I like the lighter weight barrel and it makes up into a slim and elegant rifle...

Be aware that gun building is very addictive and when you get one finished you will quickly plan for building the next one. I am always trying to improve my work. I am on flintlock #6 right now.

Dave W

 

[Dave W]

Squirrel,

One more thing to consider, you put a lot of work into gun so spring for good wood and you will not be sorry. The heavily figured wood can be a bit hard to work with, so I usually get a "medium" grade wood.

Dave W

 

[DrTimboone]

:hmm: Hey Birddog6, The Dunlap site says that the furniture options are steel or bronze. Is it actually a hard bronze and not a soft yellow brass like Chambers and Reeves Goehring use? Was it hard to file and shape???

 

[Birddog6]

Yes, they are a hard investment cast bronze, not the soft sand cast brass.

This is an example of what you can build with one of Dunlaps rifle parts sets. This is a rifle I made for
Wayne Dunlap with one of his Isaac Haines stocks & parts set. Handmade patchbox & nosecap, G.
Silver wire inlay & studs.

 

[DrTimboone]

:thumbsup: Thanks Birddog6!! beautiful work!!

 

[RC]

BD6, BEAUTIFUL WORK! :thumbsup: RC

 

[gonzomann]

Birddog,
The bronze is no harder to file than iron would be, is it? Beautiful work. You guys are inspiring!

 

[Birddog6]

Thanks all.

Well, to be quite honest I never paid it any mind. I just file it & go on. The casting is usually smoother & less cleanup than on sand cast. Thinking on it I would say it is a lil harder to file than the iron as it takes a good sharp file to cut it.

Personally I prefer the investment cast (bronze) over the sand cast cause if ya bump the sand cast guards they bend so easily........ Yes, I know, ya ain't supposed to bump them, however, have had several of them brought to me for rebending & etc. when they got bumped & out of wack.
Also the bronze ones clean up better than the sand cast for me, as the sand cast ones sometimes have divits in them & sand pockets & etc & in the wrong place, those can be a headache.

Now depending on what ya are building, if it is a PC rifle it may require sand cast but I usually don't use them unless necessary.

:grin:

 

[RMillet]

Beautiful work Birddog. Everything you say regarding Bronze and Brass is correct. Bronze is a little harder to file and the investment cast stuff is much easier to clean up than sand cast Brass. The one thing I do like about Brass (I try to use sand cast always, but that's 'cause I'm cheap) is it's much easier to displace with a hammer whack. Years ago I when I didn't have the money for replacement parts I broke a Bronze triggerguard trying to bend it to shape. It just doesn't like being moved around much regardless of how much it's annealed. Nice soft Brass is pretty forgiving in that respect, but you do pay in that it's easily nicked. I don't think you can go wrong either way, it's just a matter of personal taste. Back when I started building it was hard to find soft brass parts and everything was sand cast so we had the worst of both worlds, hard to file and they broke easily. I'm just glad we've got a choice now. Now if I could only learn to carve like you do....

Dick

 

[Birddog6]

You have to be careful with the bronze triggerguards, as they will break if ya horse them. I will bend them slightly by hand but if I have to do much bending, I find it much easier to heat them & bend them. Also I cut the lugs off & put them where I want them too, just silversolder them back where needed. I like the front retaining lug all the way against the triggerplate & get all the RR I can possibly get in the RR hole. I like to pin the front of the triggerguard from inside the lock inlet & use a L shapped pin so I can easily get it out. The rear I pin thru the stock.

Here is a example of one of Dunlaps Grade 7 Isaac Haines stocks. I built this to deer hunt with last winter & it made a real nice hunting rifle. Weighs about 7.25# in .54 cal, 38" Rice barrel, Chambers lock, Davis single trigger, tarnished brass trim. I shot 3 deer with it this past deer season & it is my first year of hunting with it.

 

[rkmeyer]

Hi,
Where do you get the Dunlap Stocks?
That is on Beautiful piece!!!javascript:void(0)
Dusty Bob

 

[Birddog6]

Yes, it is really one fine piece of wood. The stripes are actually like 3D, as you move the stock in the sunlight one direction& see one set of stripes, center shows them differently, then turn it the other way & a whole dif. set of stripes appear. I have bought over 50 stocks from Wayne & he has always gave me more than my moneys worth.

You can get these from Wayne Dunlap at Dunlap Woodcrafts, & here is his site:

www.dunlapwoodcrafts.com

 

[dennis john]

Hi Birddog6, I just recently bought a similar kit from wayne. How did you finish the stock? Most of the instructions I see are for darker finishes. This will be my first flintlock and I really like the lighter colored stock. Thanks, Dennis