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Cutting large Lead ingot

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rfcbuf

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I plan to cut a large square lead block about 3-4 inches thick into smaller chunks for my lead pot. I Plan on using a propane torch for a cutting tool; thought it would be better than trying to use a saw.

Anyone have a better suggestion for the cutting of a large lead block into smaller more workable pieces.
 
that sounds fastest to me. I have used a hacket and/or good chizle in the past to cut up big pieces. Don t have a torch.
 
Just go out in the garage and fire up the laser :grin: Seriously though, a sawzall with a wood cutting blade works for me, or a crosscut hand saw, don't run the sawzall too fast.
 
I always thought it would be neat if you could somehow heat up a wire between a battery to red hot and draw it through the block.
Actually, I use the sawzall to cut into small enough pieces to melt in a large ladle I have (5" across")and then pour that into an ingot mold that casts 1 lb. and 1/2 lb. ingots. From there it goes into the casting pot. This extra step gives me an opportunity to flux and skim off any junk that floats up before it even goes into the pot.
Idaho PRB
 
I have lead in 22 lb bricks. When I need some to cast with, I use a broad-blade chisel to cut chunks off. It's a lot easier than an hacksaw, and you don't waste the "sawdust".
 
do you have a sharp wood splitting wedge? that and a sledgehammer will do the job. set the block on a splitting log.
 
What? Dust and fumes from using a Wedge and a sledge hammer to cut the lead bricks down to size????

You protect yourself from fumes by working in a well ventilated location. You protect yourself from " dust " by wearing a dust mask, and then washing your clothes and showering to get the dust off your hair and skin.
 
I have tried most of the ways mentioned. What works best for me is to cut it with a circular saw. Lot of chips flying around so if you try this be sure to wear safety glasses.

H.Hale
 
I used a camp hatchet (non PC) and hit it with a 4 lb. sledge hammer. I'd hit it from one direction and then from the opposite side trying to make the cuts meet. Gave me a work out but it worked good and didn't waste any. Harold
 
I've used most of the methods described here, but mostly use an ax head and a BIG hammer. I have always wondered about turning the blade backwards on the saw mandrel to cut the lead, similar to cutting aluminum with a circular saw. I did my sawing over a large tub to catch as much lead chips as possible. Safety equipment use is mandatory. Emery
 
I've used an oxy-acetylene cutting torch to cut thick pieces. Just don't mash the "cutting" trigger. Cutting lead with this kind of torch is like trying to cut cast iron. You'll just blow molten lead around without cutting through. But if you stay off the oxygen trigger it works great. On chunks of lead cable wrapping, a bandsaw works good, but use a coarse tooth blade if possible. A metal cutting blade tends to fill in between the teeth and won't cut good until you use a wire brush or file card to clean out the chips that have stuck. A hot set and a hammer works very well as will a hatchet.

Remember that if you use any torch, have something non flammable to catch the melted lead. If you cut it on a concrete garage floor, you should cut over a steel pan or plate. The hot lead will cause concrete to spall and pop all over the place. (Don't ask how I know this :redface: ). Also, separate the run-off into small piles or you'll end up with a chunk that is still too big to put in a pot for casting.
:thumbsup:
 
I reccomend against the tourch because of the high temperture and lead fumes. I have had good luck with course wood cutting band saw blades.Or chisels for thinner stock.
 
You won't be heating the lead any hotter with a torch than you would in a pot. In fact, the lead will cool quickly after cutting it. To get the dangerous fumes, you would have to heat it to near red heat and you'd have to have some heavy duty heating equipment such as a forge to get it that hot.
 
Unless you have a REALLY BIG propane torch I think you will be a bit disappointed. MAPP gas would be a better choice but would cost a bunch more. If you have access to an oxy-acetylene torch that should be the first choice... not for cutting but for melting that big block into usable pieces.
 
all of the above would work.. the backwards circular blade is dandy. howsomever. kerosene for a blade lube makes it easy..

if you can collect the chips,, use a chainsaw and pump a lot of oil.. works like a hot knife thru butter..

goodluck and ..ttfn..grampa..
 
xxgrampa said:
all of the above would work.. the backwards circular blade is dandy. howsomever. kerosene for a blade lube makes it easy..

if you can collect the chips,, use a chainsaw and pump a lot of oil.. works like a hot knife thru butter..

goodluck and ..ttfn..grampa..


Same for using a coarse toothed blade in a hacksaw, it will cut lead fine if kept lubricated, I have even used water for such.



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