Cracked stock

[jdkerstetter]

I concur, though it doesn't hurt to educate ones self prior to seeking "professional" help.

Sometimes all that is required for somebodey to call themselves a professional is their willingness to take money to do for you what you could have done yourself. :wink:

Enjoy, J.D.

 

[Rifleman1776]

You have gotten a lot of good responses here so far. I agree with most of what has been suggested. I'll add a couple of my own. Print out and re-read what has been suggested.
Before I forget: Yes, unfortunate, I can understand you are bummed by this. But, it is repairable and fixes are often part of the history of the life of a rifle. Fortunately, yours is repairable.
I'll add this. I prefer the white glues, my best success is with TiteBond II. Defintely not TBIII. The TB3 dries an ugly yellow/brown color and will show. Emphasize, do not use Gorilla glue, epoxy, CA, etc.
Secure with rubber tubing or big rubber bands until dry. Then, here is where I differ from the others. Secure the wrist with brass pins after the glue is dry. I would use brazing rod that has been threaded with a die. Run the rod, with glue, all the way through the wrist (use of a power drill to do that makes it easy) cut and file flush with the wood. No matter that they will show. Remember? Part of the history of the rifle. The rifle is saved and will be strong for a couple lifetimes. Most importantly, take yer time and think through each step.
And, pics of yur fix it progress are required. Good luck.

 

[Tinker2]

I concur, though it doesn't hurt to educate ones self prior to seeking "professional" help.
.

I am sure that knowing how to tell when you have found a “professional” would be a good skill set.

“Sometimes all that is required for somebodey to call themselves a professional is their willingness to take money to do for you what you could have done yourself. ”

Yes, you nailed that one.


William Alexander

 

[Little Wattsy]

Have you thought of a brass wrap or shrink-wrap? :wink:

 

[Tinker2]

I think of each repair as an individual. So one size doesn’t fit all.
If I were doing it first I would stain any of the cracks that might show. I would not use the wax, I would not pry the wood open, and I would use the plain old Elmer's white glue. I would use your surgical hose/tubing to clamp it together then drill a good size hole from the front through the barrel bolster or tang area and drill back and down into the wrist well past the break, put in the appropriate amount of white glue, loosen the surgical tubing, drive a good wooden dowel in the hole, that will push the glue into the places it needs to go. Tighten the surgical hose and let it dry. Any extra glue will wash off.

William Alexander

 

[Black Hand]

I think of each repair as an individual. So one size doesn’t fit all.
If I were doing it first I would stain any of the cracks that might show. I would not use the wax, I would not pry the wood open, and I would use the plain old Elmer's white glue. I would use your surgical hose/tubing to clamp it together then drill a good size hole from the front through the barrel bolster or tang area and drill back and down into the wrist well past the break, put in the appropriate amount of white glue, loosen the surgical tubing, drive a good wooden dowel in the hole, that will push the glue into the places it needs to go. Tighten the surgical hose and let it dry. Any extra glue will wash off.

William Alexander

This is what I would do. Putting in wood or brass cross-pins seems overkill/unnecessary, not to mention aesthetically displeasing, and probably causes more damage that good. The glue joint will be stronger than the surrounding wood and the hidden wooden dowel will give the area all the strength it needs. I would probably carve some longitudital grooves in the dowel to give air and excess glue a place to go (avoids a "syringe plunger" effect that can happen when pushing a dowel into a blind hole).

 

[Tinker2]

I would probably carve some longitudital grooves in the dowel to give air and excess glue a place to go (avoids a "syringe plunger" effect that can happen when pushing a dowel into a blind hole).

Hi Black Hand

That’s what injects the glue into all of the cracks. Cutting grooves would defeat some of the purpose.

If it had already been repaired and you were adding the dowel just for strength then yes.

Just my way, not the only way.

William Alexander

 

[Black Hand]

Fair enough...

 

[M. De Land]

The dowel glue pump is good technique and have used it myself. Since I happened on compressed air to force glue in though I don't use It much any more. As far as I can tell it drives the glue in just as well and is less invasive.
I use small dowels grooved or spiral cut when installing ebony end caps on stocks to reinforce them above just glue strength. They work the same way as a limb growing though a block of wood you are trying to split. It is almost impossible to separate them.
I totally agree about installing them after the crack glue dries and thought I had addressed it. I would leave the barrel and trigger guard in place while bending the crack open to help support the wood. I would install several small dowels into the thicker portion only and only with in the confines of the trigger guard mortice. They will hold it just as doses the limb through the block of wood trying to be split example and will be totally concealed under the trigger plate.
Do not put anything in the crack and pry it apart. This will show far more than the crack itself and will possibly cause some wood loss.
Lots of good ideas and the discussion is very interesting.
Actually you are fixing a weakness in the stock and it will be much stronger than before. If you don't use dowels to reinforce than the stock could very likely crack again above the glue line. I prefer smaller dowels and more of them than one or two large ones. MD

 

[M. De Land]

Professional as stated are folks that charge for their service and their skill levels are as varied as the wind. If you don't have the skill yourself than ask around for references and look at some of the work of the person you will employ.
There are gun mechanics and then there are "real gun mechanics"! Some of them I wouldn't let touch my anvil if their tools were feathers! MD

 

[Rifleman1776]

Professional as stated are folks that charge for their service and their skill levels are as varied as the wind. If you don't have the skill yourself than ask around for references and look at some of the work of the person you will employ.
There are gun mechanics and then there are "real gun mechanics"! Some of them I wouldn't let touch my anvil if their tools were feathers! MD

Amen, Bro. :applause:

 

[Len Graves]

I agree with the yellow wood glue method. Spread the crack as much as you dare. carefully inject wood glue into the crack. One more thing I do is Blow air into the crack to fully get the glue into places the injectors can't reach (Sometimes the cracks are curved). I sometimes use a soda straw with the end crimped off slightly this will move the glue into those smallest areas. I then use strong rubber bands to "clamp" the crack together. Surgical tubing works good for this. There are many ways to do this repair and you have heard many tricks from guys that have been there. You have a nice looking rifle. I wish you good luck.

 

[rickjf]

Thanks to all for good suggestions. I will keep you informed.

 

[peter hawbaker]

I see a lot of folks not recommending epoxys such as acraglas, and am wondering why. I have repaired several gunstocks with Brownells Acraglas and have been nothing but pleased. Is there a reason for not using Acraglas in a repair such as this ?

 

fwiw

i would strongly recommend "titebond 2" and i would not use any wax products to protect the finish

the reason being it is just too easy to get wax into the crack and lesson the ability for the glue to bond fully all of the wood fibers

i would prepare the project by drilling from the trigger guard up to connect both pieces with something like a drywall screw... don't worry it will only be used as a temporary clamping tool.

get the titebond in there with a syringe and air
and then install the screws to clamp them together, use a damp cloth to remove the excess glue and none will show on the surface.

let it dry overnight and it won't break there again.

you can then remove the screws and drill for dowels if you like to add extra strength to the affected area.

i use this method to repair antique furniture legs that often have breaks such as this, done right they are as good as new, and done carefully they won't show, unless there is splinters of wood torn out and missing.

even a fine line remaining, in my opinion only adds some character, and a properly done repair should not detract for the value of the gun.

lots of old stuff has breaks and cracks, its the quality of repair that affects value for the most part.

btw, the screw method allows you to have a high degree of control over the clamping force and positioning of odd shaped parts. wrapping tubing and the like is very effective if you can assure perfect alignment, which can be hard to do if it is covered with some sort of clamping device like a rubber band or tube.

fwiw
bob g

 

[M. De Land]

I use agra-glass as well when the stock is completely broken off but not when you need thinner glue to drive down in the cracks as far as possible in partial breaks such as this one. MD

 

[Copperclad]

i would strongly recommend "titebond 2"

+1 :thumbsup:

 

[rickjf]

Titebond 2 it is. I will be waiting for warmer weather to do the repair.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Titebond 2 it is. I will be waiting for warmer weather to do the repair.

When you go shopping for the glue, do not be enamored by the sight of Titebond 3 thinking it is newer and better.
TB 3 leaves a very ugly yellow/brown line that is highly visible. TB 2 dries near invisible and is just as strong. I believe in using wood glues on wood.

 

i forgot to mention the thing about titebond3
i don't like it either

they also make a darkwood version of titebond2
which might be more appropriate for your stock.

it is made for darker hardwoods like walnut, when dry you really can't see the glue line at all. not unless you have missing bits of wood and are really looking for the crack line.

bob g