Can anyone tell me if standard #11 caps contain a corrosive element? I recently saw a small muzzleloading derringer-style handgun which fires .177 round balls, propelled only by a cap, no separate powder charge. Would this be subject to the need for a thorough soap-and-water cleaning after each firing, or would it be more along the lines of shooting a rimfire or centerfire gun, allowing a bit more casual care?
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corrosive #11 caps?
- Thread starter johnwm
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wow! a muzzleoader BB gun! I want that!
It's might say that but only because they're not the old mercury based primers of WW1
Yes, the compounds in primers now-a-days while not being corrosive, do leave a residue that is hygroscopic and will quickly begin the rust process on metals where the residue is not cleaned off.
Gotta clean'm asap like you would if actually using a BP charge.
Yes, the compounds in primers now-a-days while not being corrosive, do leave a residue that is hygroscopic and will quickly begin the rust process on metals where the residue is not cleaned off.
Gotta clean'm asap like you would if actually using a BP charge.
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necchi is right.
If I am not mistaken, it is called fumeric lead.
When you hear of concerns about guns and lead during cleaning, it's the primer residue, not the bullets alone.
I nit pick people at the range who eat food after shooting guns without washing their hands.
Although we could use a good banjo player on the club porch............
If I am not mistaken, it is called fumeric lead.
When you hear of concerns about guns and lead during cleaning, it's the primer residue, not the bullets alone.
I nit pick people at the range who eat food after shooting guns without washing their hands.
Although we could use a good banjo player on the club porch............
Thanks to all for that info. I just made the deal for this little toy, and I guess I'll be cleaning it like a muzzleloader, rather than neglecting it like a .22!
azmntman, the derringer is made by Pedersoli, and it might still be available new. Up here in Canuckistan, a well-known dealer was importing two models of these guns, one called the Rider, and another slightly larger one (the one I just bought) called the Guardian. Maybe you have a local gunshop that can get you one. The guy I bought mine from says that the manual warns against the use of steel BB's...it's for lead balls only. I will probably try it with .177 pellets as well. Looking forward to playing with it!
azmntman, the derringer is made by Pedersoli, and it might still be available new. Up here in Canuckistan, a well-known dealer was importing two models of these guns, one called the Rider, and another slightly larger one (the one I just bought) called the Guardian. Maybe you have a local gunshop that can get you one. The guy I bought mine from says that the manual warns against the use of steel BB's...it's for lead balls only. I will probably try it with .177 pellets as well. Looking forward to playing with it!
mhb
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Necchi:
The corrosive element in early primers was not mercury, but potassium chlorate, which leaves a residue of potassium chloride, a hygroscopic salt. It is the salt residue which causes rusting by absorbing moisture from the atmosphere.
In fact, many early non-corrosive primers eliminated the chlorate, but retained the mercury - unfortunately, the mercury attacked the brass of the cartridge case, rendering it unfit for reloading.
Most modern priming compositions are based on lead styphnate, with frictionators and fuels added - none of these leave a hygroscopic salt residue, and none of the modern cleaning solutions are water-based, as water is not needed as a solvent for the non-salt residues.
The most one can say is that the residue cannot prevent rust, but any of the modern solvents should serve perfectly well for maintaining a primer-powered firearm.
On the other hand, water will probably work, too, if soap is added...
mhb - Mike
The corrosive element in early primers was not mercury, but potassium chlorate, which leaves a residue of potassium chloride, a hygroscopic salt. It is the salt residue which causes rusting by absorbing moisture from the atmosphere.
In fact, many early non-corrosive primers eliminated the chlorate, but retained the mercury - unfortunately, the mercury attacked the brass of the cartridge case, rendering it unfit for reloading.
Most modern priming compositions are based on lead styphnate, with frictionators and fuels added - none of these leave a hygroscopic salt residue, and none of the modern cleaning solutions are water-based, as water is not needed as a solvent for the non-salt residues.
The most one can say is that the residue cannot prevent rust, but any of the modern solvents should serve perfectly well for maintaining a primer-powered firearm.
On the other hand, water will probably work, too, if soap is added...
mhb - Mike
Thank you, I stand corrected.
An excellent rendition :thumbsup:
An excellent rendition :thumbsup:
Ken Cormier
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Good read thanks for the info
Ken
Ken
Ray-Vigo
Yankee
Well put. Lyman's reloading manuals briefly discuss this. That goes with the suggestions never to use brass of an unknown source or age.
