Cocking arm not staying cocked...

[45man]

When the set trigger is up, the lock will not go back in as it sticks up to hit the tumbler. Nothing wrong there. Set the trigger to install the lock but to need to set to cock the hammer is usually wood interference. The sear is not the set trigger. The set trigger just punches the sear at the tumbler. Notice the sear has a leg on it in a hole that is struck by the set trigger. The leg must be touching wood so when the set trigger is pushing against it. it can not engage the tumbler. Do not mix the sear with the set trigger. The set trigger is a flapper. Pressure from the set trigger can hold the sear so there must be clearance between the leg and trigger and is why a shim is recommended. The set trigger should not push the leg and that is too much metal and a trigger set too high.
A good set trigger does not push the sear leg. It just punches and relaxes like a firing pin on a double with a rebounding hammer. Mine have a spring to return the front to bottom after firing. The front trigger does not stick up. I have zero pressure against the sear leg. My front triggers go full forward. They snap the sear leg and return flat. If your front trigger still pushes you have a sad trigger. the trigger should flop free with no pressure at all.

 

[Tom Compton]

Many double set triggers have a screw under the main spring that limit the upward travel of the rear trigger bar. As simple as removing the trigger guard and adjusting with the right tool. A little blue lock tite wouldn’t hurt once properly adjusted.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

It is a relatively simple matter to shim the trigger plate to lower the triggers.

Yes Mike is quite right, it's rather simple indeed, though it can be tedious...but black powder shooting is partially a patience exercise.

I've seen it tested using a playing card. In each pack in addition to the jokers there is usually an extra card that offers additional products. Use this OR sacrifice a Joker. You cut it to fit over the trigger plat with an opening for the portions of the trigger that extend upward to contact the lock-sear. Install the trigger and then check it with the lock installed. Probably won't work the first time, so you do it again, adding another piece of cut card on top of the first. Repeat the process until the trigger & lock work, and then add one last piece of card and see if they still work well. You then have an exact model of how much "shim" will be needed to make the adjustment PLUS the thickness of one extra card to ensure if any more wood shrinkage happens, you hopefully won't have a repeat of the problem. You may find that an extra layer of card stock is too much. As I said, tedious, but will give you a clear picture. Then you can fashion either a wood or leather piece to take up that gap in a permanent fashion. Some folks will use epoxy resin in the trigger gap, let it harden, and simply re-inlet the trigger assembly. That works well too, and doesn't react to moisture changes.

LD

 

[PluggedNickel]

I love reading these detailed trouble shooting replies. You guys really go the extra mile to help resolve a problem!

 

[0311]

yes sir, just had to shim it! works like a charm now.It's nice actually being able to hear the lock, "click" into half and full cock. And just in time for the weekend, hot damn, its a sign! thank you guys for the advice!

 

[45man]

Sounds real good, glad it worked.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

..., just had to shim it! works like a charm now.It'se actually being able to hear the lock, "click" into half and full cock. And just in time for the weekend, hot damn, its a sign! thank you guys for the advice!

HUZZAH!



LD

 

[Grenadier1758]

Well, Dave, it looks like we pulled another one out.

Mike