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Cleaning with transmission fluid

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Thats right, there are many products made for guns and rust protection for them. I'll NEVER use something on my guns thats made for tranmissions in cars. :idunno:
 
I have used the type F fluid since receiving my first fowler from Matt Advance at TVM years ago. It may not be the only way to add a protective coating; I understand that but it, apparently, does no harm. The wood and metal on that gun are still handsome and clean.
As for "no way, never"....doesn't anyone else see at least some basic similarities between a firearm (BP or otherwise) and the engine and tranny in a car?
Pete
 
Pete D. said:
...doesn't anyone else see at least some basic similarities between a firearm (BP or otherwise) and the engine and tranny in a car?
Pete

They both have metal parts and it's best if the wood is on the outside instead of the inside? :grin:
 
doesn't anyone else see at least some basic similarities between a firearm (BP or otherwise) and the engine and tranny in a car?

Ya mean steel, exposed to high heat and fouling with corrosive properties, with rust being a bad thing? :grin:

I started using it when folks on another forum talked about it being a good thing, and as it was forumlated to replace whale oil, which was used as a rust preventative in the days of BP, I thought I'd try it for long term storage. Works well.

I have an aversion to using stuff that comes in plastic bottles from the shelves of Wal-Mart on my muzzle loaders anyhow.

DUDE Walmart sells water in plastic bottles and one finds it on the shelves..., will you now disavow the use of water in cleaning muzzleloaders? :shocked2: :confused: :shocked2:

:haha:

Sorry couldn't resist the reductio ad absurdum joke..., I know what ya meant. :grin:

LD
 
Hanshi,
you've been using type F for years on your ML and I'm curious about how well it protects your stock in wet weather or do you use something else when you know that it might rain or snow?
 
Careful with acetone, if you try adding it. You can get skin sensitized to it with nasty outcomes, and individuals respond differently as to how much it takes. personal experience, unfortunately, Good smoke, Ron (Used to use it quite a bit when fiberglassing boats, when young and invulnerable)
 
Never used it on any kind of firearm but Ed's Red is the primo bicycle chain cleaner in the world.
 
ronrryan said:
Careful with acetone, if you try adding it. You can get skin sensitized to it with nasty outcomes, and individuals respond differently as to how much it takes. personal experience, unfortunately, Good smoke, Ron (Used to use it quite a bit when fiberglassing boats, when young and invulnerable)


You are correct. It is a powerful, and nasty, solvent. I use it considerably with my stabilizing process. But, I handle the wood with tongs and the Acetone is either in it's original can or in the vacuum chamber, both sealed except for brief periods of time. I am careful to ventilate well.
 
I don't put anything on the stock when I go out in wet conditions. I won't go out in sho-nuff rain but don't mind sprinkly, drippy days. The TF seems to make the stock have a shiny luster over time and the ultra thin coating that builds up is hard enough to help resist scratches. IMHO it is better than wax.
 
hanshi said:
I don't put anything on the stock when I go out in wet conditions. I won't go out in sho-nuff rain but don't mind sprinkly, drippy days. The TF seems to make the stock have a shiny luster over time and the ultra thin coating that builds up is hard enough to help resist scratches. IMHO it is better than wax.


I think are many good reasons why most folks prefer waxes on their furniture, both gun and sittin' kind. I use a furniture polish designed for fine antiques and it does a fine job.
 
It would probably leave a "yellow waxy buildup" like old linoleum. Also it is not safe when burned as it would sure be when the gun is fired. There are too many good bore protectants on the market to bother searching the fringes. Barricade comes to mind.
 
i have heard that transmission fluid can pit a barrel - but have never seen it myself, so I would simply use the old hot water and a bore mop.

For lubricant, I use baby oil. It's basically mineral oil but with smelly good in it.
 
I don't use it myself, but I have never heard of transmission fluid pitting transmissions before. So why gun barrels?

X
David
 
There is nothing in any of the automatic transmission fluids that would pit a steel, aluminum or zinc part.

The main differences between transmission fluids is the way the additives effect the elastic seals in a transmission.

The common feature is that they do not have anything that would cause the wet plate clutches to slip.
Because of this requirement they do not have the super lubricating properties of common modern motor oils.
 
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