Cleaning up brass castings?

[Ken Morrison]

Is it a good idea to always move the emery cloth in one direction even when changing to a finer grit? It's hard to tell if all the scratches are removed from the prior grit, maybe I just need more practice, which I'm getting.
Thanks for your help.

 

[Bill Hall]

What I do is sand in whatever direction feels the most natural, i.e. along the length of a trigger guard or buttplate. When I go the next grit and still see scratches, I'll go back to the previous grit. Back and forth until all the previous scratches are gone. You don't want to get too far ahead with scratches still visible, cuz you'll drive yourself crazy trying to sand out deep scratches with too fine a grit.

You can actually sand in any direction if you are going for a fine finish in the end. Or you can save the uni-direction sanding only for the last couple of grits, to get a directional pattern. I usually finish up with steel wool in a circular motion. Hope this helps. Bill

 

[BrownBear]

More or less like Snowdragon I tend to follow the long axis, but as much for convenience as for looks. I do it so I can get as long a continuous stroke as possible, finding it's just a lot easier. His advice on grit sequence is good too. BTW- The same applies for steel fittings.

 

[ohio ramrod]

Where practical I like to ghange direction 90 degrees when switching to finer grits.I find it makes it easier for me to pick up any scratches not cleaned up before buffing. :idunno: :idunno:

 

[Ken Morrison]

I think what messed my up is not getting all the marks removed from one grit before moving to another then trying to remove them with too fine a grit. I think I'll try turning 90 degrees when changing to the next finer grit.

Thanks for your help.

 

[Birddog6]

I work them one way then the other way & each time you have to get all the marks out. If you go to fine too soon, you will be working allot.

That being said, I remove all of it with files first & go to smoother files. Also round files in places, and use mostly autobody paper, I never use sand paper. Usually start with 220 black autobody paper, then go to a 320, then a 600. But it is pretty well worked out with files first.
A dremmel with a 1/4" fine drum on it works well in the sharp curls & in side the bow & etc. Takes practice so you don't have dips & etc in it.

The key to all of it is making a jig to hold the triggerguard....... Once ya have a good jig to hold it, you can work one down in 1/2 the time you will trying to just hold the dang thing. :idunno:

I get the guard filed down good, then fit it & mount it to the stock so I know I have the bends & shape I want. Then I remove it & work it on down to however smooth I want it....

Keith Lisle

 

[Only Round]

Start with fine files to remove the pits/rough spots, then switch 90 degrees with each change in grit- the previous scratches really stand out that way- makes it much easier to avoid missing any. I also like to finish with the finest grit going longitudinally on the piece, so I figure out how many grits I'll use, then work backwards to figure out which way to start with the heaviest grit. :v