Cast some .32 caliber balls today.

[Sidney Smith]

Tried out my new Lee double cavity .311 ball mould today. Used my impromptu method. I use this ladle and torch setup when I'm too lazy to get out the production pot. It works but uses up gas from Mr. Sparky. Made a decent amount of balls. I used I think 3 big, 2 or 3 oz pyramid fishing sinkers that I found in an old duffle bag that belonged to my father that I kept when he passed away. Just thought I'd share.

 

[Sidney Smith]

Tried out my new Lee double cavity .311 ball mould today. Used my impromptu method. I use this ladle and torch setup when I'm too lazy to get out the production pot. It works but uses up gas from Mr. Sparky. Made a decent amount of balls. I used I think 3 big, 2 or 3 oz pyramid fishing sinkers that I found in an old duffle bag that belonged to my father that I kept when he passed away. Just thought I'd share.

P.S. There was a decent amount of lead left in the ladle. I just got tired and dumped in the sprue when I took the picture.

 

[mooman76]

Lee use to make a .308 ball. Don't know why they quit but I have one. It's single cavity so I don't really use it, that and the fact that the .311 or the .319 works fine for me.

 

[Sidney Smith]

I just dont understand why .311 and not .310? Maybe it makes for a more even ball weight? I'm however not going to squabble over a thousantth of an inch.

I'm just not used to these tiny little balls. If I had used my .54 caliber mould, I'd have probably gotten maybe 15 to 18 balls out of that 6 oz of lead. I made 44 .311 balls and still had about 3 oz of lead eft.

 

[mooman76]

My balls come out a little larger because of lack of pure lead. Still soft but not pure but a little alloy is all it takes to make larger RBs.

 

[Sidney Smith]

These sinkers I used were probably 30 or 40 years old, and we're definitely pure lead. I measured a few of the balls and they were right around .311 maybe .312.

 

[mooman76]

All my lead I acquired. Range p/u, lead for Glass stained windows. Stick on WWs as well as regular. I also have some roof flashing I save for Conicals and RBs for revolver. I need to get a lead tester. I lost track of some of it plus some I just don't know where it came from.

 

[MountainSmoke]

Those look great. I am getting ready to order one of those molds for my cva squirrel rifle. Did you pre heat the mold? Just wondering if it takes longer with those little balls to get the mold up to temperature before you start turning out useable balls if you start with the mold not heated. Thanks

 

[mooman76]

I almost always preheat my moulds and your assumption is correct. The smaller the RB or bullet, the longer it takes to get it up to temp and also keep the temp up. May have to run the pot a little hotter to help.

 

[Sidney Smith]

Oh yes. I always pre heat the mould. That's why I had the mapp gas torch out too. I use that to heat up the mould right before I cast my first balls. The regular propane torch is used to keep the lead hot. This time of year it isn't bad, bit in winter it takes longer to preheat the mould.

I dud notice the one hollow nearest the pivot point of the sprue cutter would not always form a ball. It was as if the lead would solidify before allowing the hollow to fill up. Never had that happen before and it didn't do it with the other hole. Could be the bolt for the sprue cutter was acting as a heat sink and cooling that part of the mould faster than the rest. It's never happened when using my double cavity .54 mould.

 

[MountainSmoke]

Ok,good advice, thank you. Most of my limited casting experience has been with big .710 balls for my 12 gauge. I am looking forward to trying it for the 32. One thing is for sure my lead supply will be stretched out a heck of a lot more. Thanks

 

[mooman76]

I set the mould on the top edge of the pot while the pot is heating up to preheat it. I also sometimes dip the corner of the mould and sprue cutter into the lead melt to preheat the mould.

 

[Sidney Smith]

I set the mould on the top edge of the pot while the pot is heating up to preheat it. I also sometimes dip the corner of the mould and sprue cutter into the lead melt to preheat the mould.

I do that when I use my pot, but when just using the torch, like I did the other day, a quick blast with the mapp gas torch gets it warmed up pretty quick.