Browning Lessons Learned

[Scipio]

Guys:

I purchased a double barrel flintlock from Middlesex and intend on browning the polished barrels and locks. I will also refinish the wood if I don't like its appearance.

I have finished stocks many times and have browned a few barrels. I do not get into it but will not accept a poor outcome either.

So, let me ask you guys your lessons learned about the process of prepping and browning locks and barrels.

One caveat is that I will be cold browning. At most the barrel will be warm to the touch.

Thanks guys!

Scipio

 

[M. De Land]

Getting the surface clean and of uniform texture is important (LMF or not).
Not applying to much to the mop so as to get drips and over runs.
Carding on a fine wire wheel to blend applications.
Brownell's sells them with .003 wire(very fine carding wheels).

 

[Grenadier1758]

You don't want the barrel to be polished to a mirror finish. The browning solution won't react evenly on a highly polished surface. A smooth surface roughed with 220 grit wet/dry paper is the surface texture that takes browning best. Having the metal in a warm and humid place will also improve the action of the browning. It will probably take several applications to achieve a smooth brown color.

 

[fleener]

Buying one of those carding wheels from Brownells is a must IMO.

Makes the job much easier and also I think your carding more uniform.

Fleener

 

[Scipio]

M.D / Fleener / GD1758:

Never thought of a carding wheel. Will get one.

Keeping the surface a bit rough is a lesson I learned many years ago. However, no one advised not going smoother than a 220 grit back then, either. No internet then so no well of information (good and bad) to draw from.

One thing I will do will be to hang the barrel in a shower stall over some water and have a heat lamp oriented towards the area to keep it warm and humid.

A question. What do you guys use to degrease and clean the steel before browning?

Scipio

 

[Larry Akers]

Scipio, my experience with browning highly polished metal differs from those mentioned in the other posts. I have made several "high quality" guns on which my final polish, after working up through 600 grit paper, was using Tripoli polish on a muslin wheel. While not mirror, they were very bright. I use dish detergent in boiling water to degrease the metal by scrubbing with a rag attached to a stick. Scrub until you are absolutely sure all oils, etc. are removed and then scrub some more. Rinse with lots of boiling water. I have had NO trouble getting an even brown on my barrels. When you card be sure to remove ALL the rust. You can tell if there is anything left on the barrel when carding with a wheel. Get everything off the wheel will remove.

 

[ZUG]

M.D / Fleener / GD1758:

Never thought of a carding wheel. Will get one.

Keeping the surface a bit rough is a lesson I learned many years ago. However, no one advised not going smoother than a 220 grit back then, either. No internet then so no well of information (good and bad) to draw from.

One thing I will do will be to hang the barrel in a shower stall over some water and have a heat lamp oriented towards the area to keep it warm and humid.

A question. What do you guys use to degrease and clean the steel before browning?

Scipio

Those wheels are expensive (I have two) you might try rubbing hard between coats with coarse burlap first before you buy the wheel- just a thought - sometimes for me the burlap rub works fine just depends how much finish sanding I do with very fine sand paper to get a polished surface.

 

[M. De Land]

I degrease with De'solve from Brownell's. You mix with water, scrub and water rinse,dry and apply brown or bluing solution.
I also have and use two identical carding hand brushes from Brownell's with the thin wire, for screw heads and small parts.
I draw file(strike as the Brits like to say) every thing including round barrels then sand them to 400 grit until all file marks are removed. I then sand blast the parts with 70 grit garnet sand which leaves the surface dead flat then clean out the blast cabinet and go over that with glass beads which leaves a sheen on the sand blasted bare steel.
It yields the most perfect,even texture for receiving brown or bluing solution I have ever found and leaves a soft flat finish with a bit of sheen when done, usually requiring six applications and cardings.
It's a lot of work but they turn out so well I use nothing else.
Oh, I also use a vertical bluing cabinet with a computer fan to circulate the moist air.

 

[fleener]

I too take my barrels to 400 grit. It does take a little longer for the acid to take a bite, but I think the final finish is worth it.

If you let the acid work hard on the barrel and aggressively attack it, then 400 grit is not worth the extra effort.

Carding wheel is 21 bucks. Worth it. Especially when you do the barrel after this current one.


fleener

 

[fleener]

I use rubbing alcohol to remove the oil and grease.

Fleener

 

[Col. Batguano]

How do you keep the edges sharp when using a wheel?

$21? is that all? Doesn't sound all that expensive id if you ask me.

 

[tenngun]

With LM brown be sure to start at one end of the barrel and wipe in one long stroke. Do not rub it on, just one long wipe. LM will produce a coppery color if rubbed. Put on carefully its a fine and tough good looking brown. It is easy to screw up. It will also do a fine blue/black.

 

[M. De Land]

When using a carding wire wheel you run off the end of the barrel never onto it. I do most of my carding parallel to the bore but very often will run on a tangent to the bore when more blending is needed in a certain area. I do most of my carding vertically using the long handled barrel plugs as the purchase.
What do you guys use inside the bore to protect it from water or solution damage? The plugs are most necessary when bluing because the parts are boiled but when browned it's also a good idea if a bluing cabinet is used with circulating air.
I tried shellac as the old timers did but got some mild chemical pitting from it's use so switched to Brownell's "Hold" which is sprayed on bare steel to keep it from oxidizing before you blue or brown it.
In practice I cut and fit hardwood barrel plugs, soak them in Hold then swab the bore interior with it and while still damp drive in the plugs.
It keeps corrosion from occurring but leaves an unsightly stain from the reaction to the wood oil.

 

[trigrcreep]

Pee works-it will warm the surface and produce a nice brown-just absolutely no light beer

 

[fleener]

I used to plug my barrel when I did the rust blue, but water would always still get in the barrel.

For quite a few years now I have not plugged the barrel at all. Just careful when doing it. I do use a paste of baking soda when I am done on a patch to clean the bore and the outside.

I have tried LMF and switched back to Waukon Bay.

Fleener

 

[M. De Land]

One more thing. When checking for how even the finish job is use sunlight as it will reveal streaks and light spots like nothing else.

 

[fleener]

MD is spot on regarding checking it in sun light.

My first one I did not do that and now, years latter I can see slight difference in the finish in bright sun light.

Fleener

 

[StewartLeach]

I quickly learned that a humidity cabinet is a must here in semi-arid Colorado. Built one of plywood, 12" square and 48" long, with a hook inside the top to hang the barrel. A 40 watt bulb provides heat, and a very damp rag the moisture. Removeable side is held in place with two screen door hooks and eyes. Drilled a few holes in top and bottom to promote a little air circulation by convection.

I clean with dish soap and warm water, then rubbing alcohol wipe down with the barrel hanging muzzle down in the box.

Burlap feed sacking works well to buff back the rust, but be sure to degrease before every chemical application. Inside of old blue jean fabric works well, as did scraps of Osnaburg fabric left from making a shirt.

I got great results sealing the finish by rubbing a lump of beeswax on the warmed barrel surface. Used a hair dryer to heat up the barrel, rubbed on the wax, then polished with rags.