Brand new shooter and gun

[45D]

I have 3 1858's and just purchased another one in stainless. IMPO you should strip the gun down for a through cleaning. Some new guns are very clean while others may have grit or filings inside from machining. Unless there are obvious large burrs I don't believe in stoning and polishing new parts. If you shoot a lot they will wear in to a proper mating. No need to impose premature wear on your new gun. Disassembly is not hard. Follow the advice given by others in this thread.

So I guess if you shoot one enough, it'll end up with perfect timing instead of worse timing, positive trigger engagement (longevity and safety), a 2.5 - 3lb trigger pull, 4lb hammer draw, develop a bolt block and an action stop ( to "stop" wear from happening) . . . just like the Pietta I had in possession that shaved the hammer cam off in less than 50 cycles? Fitting parts is "premature wear"? Hmmm . . .

Mike

 

[BuffaloSoldier]

Have been wanting one to add to my collection. Also, welcome from SE Missouri.

 

[AKHammonds]

Thanks, I guess I will "bite the bullet" and break down then Remington. I also purchased an 1851 navy from Pietta. They are both 44 cal. I am now on the hunt for bore butter. I plan on making my own but wanted to try the store bought stuff to compare with my homebrew.

 

[Crow Choker]

Processing for your '51 Colt for shooting is same as for Remington if ya bought it new. If used good chance it could have crud in action depending on previous owner. I'd do as with Remington and expose action. Take grips off, grip frame and trigger guard. There is a proper process for removing the frame and trigger guard screws on a Colt as there is tension on the mainspring. Search that out also before you tear into the Colt, proper procedure also for reassembly.

As with the Remington there is that combo trigger and bolt spring under the trigger guard, screw to check. If your timing is good before you disassemble, clean, dry, and lubricate. IMO if there is a timing issue on a new revolver or it fails to cycle, it needs to go back for repair or replacement if you bought it from a business/seller. If bought on private sale and is new, manufacturer should/will cover. If a person starts filing/stoning/adding things to a new firearm, it can void the manufacturer's warranty and you may be stuck with a defective revolver that you will either have to fix yourself or send it off which adds to the cost of the original purchase price. Not from personal experience but I've read 'the wailing and gnashing of teeth' from guys that have experienced this.

My first percussion revolver was an EMF '51 Navy 44 caliber I bought in 1972. I can't recall who made those at the time but not a real gem as far as quality and fast six shots. Was a real learning experience. Around ten years ago I bought a Pietta 51 Navy 44 caliber like yours from Taylor Firearms. A real joy to shoot, good quality, perfect timing out of the box. I did do some smoothing after 'alot' of rounds threw her. I prefer shooting a 44 1851 Navy vs the '51 Navy 36 caliber.

 

[Ed C.]

So I guess if you shoot one enough, it'll end up with perfect timing instead of worse timing, positive trigger engagement (longevity and safety), a 2.5 - 3lb trigger pull, 4lb hammer draw, develop a bolt block and an action stop ( to "stop" wear from happening) . . . just like the Pietta I had in possession that shaved the hammer cam off in less than 50 cycles? Fitting parts is "premature wear"? Hmmm . . .

Mike

For the few that know what they are doing, proper tuning is fine. For a new shooter to go randoming polishing and sanding parts because they saw someone doing it on you tube is not advisable IMO. Good chance of ending up with a sloppy gun or even ruining a new gun with "fixes". Fix actual problems. Don't fix what ain't broke! So with much due respect I stand by my comment.

 

[Ed C.]

Thanks, I guess I will "bite the bullet" and break down then Remington. I also purchased an 1851 navy from Pietta. They are both 44 cal. I am now on the hunt for bore butter. I plan on making my own but wanted to try the store bought stuff to compare with my homebrew.

Store bought bore butter is one big mess in any kind of warmth. Plenty of recipes out there if you check the forum. I like to use 1/8 durofelt wads soaked in 50/50 beeswax/olive oil mix to put over the powder.

 

[CaptainVane]

What Ed said about bore butter, I let the gun store guy talk me into a tube of TC bore butter. In summer it turns into a liquified greasy mess. In cold weather, it hardens and is nearly impossible to get out of the tube. Waste of $10. I just use lubricated felt wads now. No mess, simple.

 

[Colonial Boy]

Welcome from New England.

 

[Thingamajiggy]

Hello and welcome from PA. Good luck with your new obsession.

 

[LSLibelo]

Welcome from California

 

[dracer]

welcome to the forum

 

[ppg1949]

Welcome from Indiana!

 

[tgfrench]

shoot it, shoot it, and shoot it some more till you get intimate with it and its intricates. But most of all learn its break down and assembly. BP revolvers are DIRTY shooters to put it mildly. Never store it for any amount of time without cleaning.

 

[Gtrubicon]

take it all the way down while it’s new and clean, observe how it works internally and re assembl. Then go shoot the hell out of it. Bore butter is manure. Welcome from Northern California.

 

[AKHammonds]

Well yesterday broke down the 1851 Navy cleaned it up and got it back together without to much of a problem. So will do the 1858 New Model Army next.

 

[Ed C.]

Well yesterday broke down the 1851 Navy cleaned it up and got it back together without to much of a problem. So will do the 1858 New Model Army next.

Then it will be no problem for you. The 58 has fewer screws than the 1851. The hammer has to be pushed down to expose the little screw holding the hand for removal of those parts. And loosen the tension on the mainspring adjusting screw before removing it.

 

[AKHammonds]

Did the New model Army yesterday, not as easy as the Colt but still not as bad as I had feared. I am in N California just South of San Jose. Do you guys have any tips for scoring Cap and/or real black powder? I can't seem to find them anywhere.

 

[Ed C.]

Did the New model Army yesterday, not as easy as the Colt but still not as bad as I had feared. I am in N California just South of San Jose. Do you guys have any tips for scoring Cap and/or real black powder? I can't seem to find them anywhere.

Grafs and Sons online.

 

[CaptainVane]

Did the New model Army yesterday, not as easy as the Colt but still not as bad as I had feared. I am in N California just South of San Jose. Do you guys have any tips for scoring Cap and/or real black powder? I can't seem to find them anywhere.

Use Triple 7. Its more powerful, stinks less, cleans easier, far less corrosive. And easier to find. My local stores wont carry real BP anymore said it requires an expensive yearly hazmat license whereas the substitute doesn’t.

 

[AKHammonds]

I got a pound of pryodex but thought I would try the real stuff first, but if it can't be had then I guess we go with then imitation. I will try triple 7 next.