Book on forging gunlocks

[J.D.]

I don't know if this forum is the correct place to post this, but here goes anyway.

I am trying, with no success, to locate a book titled "Hand Forging the MuzzleLoading Gun Lock" by Pryor Mountain Bill Newton.

Internet searches haven't turned up anything, nor have attempts to locate Bill Newton. The last I heard he was living in Deaver Wyoming, but I can't seem to find any record of him.

Does anyone know where I might find a copy of this book, or how I might locate Pryor Mountain Bill Newton so's I can contact him?

Thanks,
J.D.

 

[Bookie]

J.D., I looked through my library and do not have this particular book. Guess I'd like to get a copy, too. Suggestion: Contact David Ripplinger at Track and tell him of your delimma. He carries other Pryor Mt. Bill books and although he probabhly will not give you Bill's address, he probably should be able to contact him. Vol. 1 of the arms makers series by the NMLRA is devoted to fine flintlock fabrication. It is out of print and copies are getting a little pricey when you do find one. I am in the process of making dies to copy one of my Grandpa's locks. Cheers, Bookie

 

[rich pierce]

I've got the book. Not a lot of detail for the newbie but for a very skilled blacksmith (not the backyard, 5 times a year type) it is enough to go on. For the newbie, there will be many failures in making each part, and 200 hours is a reasonable estimate.

 

[J.D.]

Thanks for those replies.

I have Vol 1 of JHAT and it's good in some ways, but not so good in others. It does describe the use of dies, but not freehand forging.

I'm not what you could call the most experienced smith, and for the last few years I have been that 5-6 time a year smith, but I hope to change that this summer.


Oh well, there is always modeling clay. It's amazing what a few hours of working with modeling clay can do for one's technique when attempting to learn new skills.

The questions that I have, pertaining to forging locks, is working out the geometry.

I assume that the first dimension that needs to be determined has to do with the distance from the center of the tumbler hole to the center of the pan. That should determine the throw, or the length of the cock.

After that, I can only assume that the rest of the dimensions, from one screw hole to another, are proportional to the various parts.

I have an old Siler, a coupla L&R's, and an old Robbins to use for help in working out the geometry.

Thanks,
J.D.

 

[rich pierce]

Pryor Mountain Bill's book has little to nothing on geometry.

 

[J.D.]

Thanks Rich,
It sounds like I might be as well off experimenting with modeling clay and figuring out the geometry for myself.

I can already forge and heat treat springs, so the rest of the parts shouldn't be all that hard to make....Yeah, right. ;-)

Thanks,
J.D.

 

[Bookie]

J.D., a few years ago, I wrote a small treatise on lock geometry for Muzzle Mag's original Campfire. If I can find a copy of that, you can have it. Bookie

 

[SusieB]

I have been doing some research (which I have come to the conclusion is for the rest of time) with a friend in a museum in Europe for about 3 years now. There are a couple of hints I will share with you. Based on some suspicions I had, I had him measure a selection (about 430-what was in one row) of various rifles for some evaluations and discovered an interesting find. Every rifle, gun and musket, military and civilian had some intersting coincidences between them. The dimension of the breech of the barrel was so close as to be considered identical to the dimension of the lock behind the pans fence. This will get you your overal height depending on what barrel you intend to use. The distance from the barrels end to the plugs internal face is typically the same distance as the rear fence to pan center. The arc of the frizzen is a matching recieving arc of the hammer based on the lower jaw. Cool stuff! Remember that the step on the backside of the hammer must strike the plate at the same time or slightly before the tumbler backfoot (don't know the technical name) contacts the bridles back. This makes the plate soak up the impact instead of the tumbler and bridle. And yes, I am working on some "new" locks! Studying the originals is great stuff.