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In a previous post about a modern binoc case I'd built, Claude provided a link to this great old case. Thanks Claude!
I needed to make a case for my full-size binocs, so nothing would do but to head down that road. Only the one view in the link Claude provided, so I had to make lots of guesses based on other old cases (but not as old!) I found online.
This was for full-size modern binocs, but the whole experiment has me searching for a set of "period" binocs for which I can apply my newfound lessons in making another case. Note that there's no taper in my case, in line with the lack of taper in the modern glasses. I'll taper the case when I get the "period" binoculars someday.
Lots of warts in this one. Didn't have any heel bar buckles on hand, much less any iron ones. So I went with centerbar brass and dispensed with the leather strap loops as redundant.
Also used leather from a separate hide for the straps, which took the dye differently than that of the main case. Ratz, but I kinda knew that would happen and I can live with it. I don't like the strap retainers sewn on the outside like this, in spite of what appears to be going on in the photo of the original. Next time I'm going to pierce the body of the case on either side of the strap and secure the ends of the strap retainers on the inside where they'll be protected from wear.
Finally there's the price to be paid for ignoring experience and the guidance of Al Stohlman in his book to end all books about hand sewing. I've always started my butt seams from the top of the case, then fitted the bottom plate as directed by Big Al. Decided to sew the bottom plate first then run the butt seam up the side of the case. Big circus, and I'll never make that mistake again. But I solved the issues to my satisfaction.
Final bit of guesswork from the photo of the original. There's every chance the lid was sewn to a hinge panel back there. But I really like the thought of being able to remove the cap in busy times to turn the case into a "bucket," via another buckle in the back. My call.
BTW- The body of the case is 8-9oz leather while the straps are all 3oz. A 9 oz strap is just too heavy, so in order to keep the dye jobs straight on the next case, I'll split or "skive" the thicker leather down to 3-4oz for straps.
One final thought worth passing along. I grew up using semi-circular needles for sewing butt seams and hated every minute of it. After all these years I finally followed Stohlman's advice and made my own curved needles. No fear of butt seams ever again! I've also hated the curved awls previously available, but Tandy's curved model in their new Pro Line resolved all that, too. I tossed all those things on top of Stohlman's great book for this photo.
I needed to make a case for my full-size binocs, so nothing would do but to head down that road. Only the one view in the link Claude provided, so I had to make lots of guesses based on other old cases (but not as old!) I found online.
This was for full-size modern binocs, but the whole experiment has me searching for a set of "period" binocs for which I can apply my newfound lessons in making another case. Note that there's no taper in my case, in line with the lack of taper in the modern glasses. I'll taper the case when I get the "period" binoculars someday.
Lots of warts in this one. Didn't have any heel bar buckles on hand, much less any iron ones. So I went with centerbar brass and dispensed with the leather strap loops as redundant.
Also used leather from a separate hide for the straps, which took the dye differently than that of the main case. Ratz, but I kinda knew that would happen and I can live with it. I don't like the strap retainers sewn on the outside like this, in spite of what appears to be going on in the photo of the original. Next time I'm going to pierce the body of the case on either side of the strap and secure the ends of the strap retainers on the inside where they'll be protected from wear.
Finally there's the price to be paid for ignoring experience and the guidance of Al Stohlman in his book to end all books about hand sewing. I've always started my butt seams from the top of the case, then fitted the bottom plate as directed by Big Al. Decided to sew the bottom plate first then run the butt seam up the side of the case. Big circus, and I'll never make that mistake again. But I solved the issues to my satisfaction.
Final bit of guesswork from the photo of the original. There's every chance the lid was sewn to a hinge panel back there. But I really like the thought of being able to remove the cap in busy times to turn the case into a "bucket," via another buckle in the back. My call.
BTW- The body of the case is 8-9oz leather while the straps are all 3oz. A 9 oz strap is just too heavy, so in order to keep the dye jobs straight on the next case, I'll split or "skive" the thicker leather down to 3-4oz for straps.
One final thought worth passing along. I grew up using semi-circular needles for sewing butt seams and hated every minute of it. After all these years I finally followed Stohlman's advice and made my own curved needles. No fear of butt seams ever again! I've also hated the curved awls previously available, but Tandy's curved model in their new Pro Line resolved all that, too. I tossed all those things on top of Stohlman's great book for this photo.