best way to remove cva stock finish from 20yr old gun?

[bwhoffman]

What is the best/easiest/prefered method to remove that horrid factory finish from cva stocks?

 

[mazo kid]

Brett, I don't know what the finish is, but I would strip the stock of all metal parts and liberally apply paint remover. Then carefully scrape/rub off the finish when it softens. That way you wouldn't have to sand a lot, unless you WANT to remove wood. Years ago, I refinished a Mountain rifle I had purchased at a yard sale, it had been built from a kit and all the guy did was screw the parts in place . The parts were all inlet way too deep and I took off quite a bit of wood; it did come out rather nice looking if I have to say so myself.

 

[paulvallandigham]

Brett: You can remove most finishes using Acetone. I understand that is the chief ingredient in many of these modern paint removers that look like a paste. They work, but they are only a more stable form of acetone. Use this stuff in an open area, with plenty of ventilation. Don't breathe in the fumes. Its nasty stuff!

But, that having been said, I have been around a lot of equally nasty stuff you don't want to inhale. The best part about using acetone is that its available from most paint and hardware stores, or home building supply stores, its relatively cheap, and it removes ANY FINISH that I have heard about. I used a brush to slap the acetone on a stock that needed refinishing badly. I started at the top, letting the acetone drip down the wood into a metal tray I had to catch the drippings. I had expected to have to wait several minutes, then brush on more, then wait, scrape, then put on more, etc. until several hours later I would have all the finish removed. NOPE! The finish began to bleed off as the acetone touched it! I actually ended taking broad strokes down the stock to wipe off the finish as I was wiping on the acetone! I had that whole stock stripped in about 5 minutes, and probably less.

Of course, not believing in my good fortune, I dried the stock, let it dry some in the sun, and then went it again with acetone. ( Doubting Thomas, ME!) The acetone hit the tray as clear as when it left my brush. With the first pass, it removed old dirt and varnish, or whatever oil finish might have been put on the stock, from deep in the grain of the wood.

On another project, the factory finish included a " walnut " Paint over Birchwood. The acrylic? finish and paint all came off with the first brush strokes. The birch stock was actually not bad wood. I highlighted the grain with some cherry stain, then stained the wood with a commercial alcohol walnut stain. Then I hand rubbed Tru-oil into the wood to finish the stock. The owner of the gun did not even recognize the stock!

 

[Dave K]

I have good luck with Zip Strip, stripper. It is kind of a gel, that doesn't evaporate real fast, giving it time to work on the finish and for me to scrape it off. If there is a lot of oil in the wood from a over zealous caretaker wiping too much oil on the metal. I will soak the wood in a acetone to remove the oils. Oil soaked wood because weak and is pithy feeling. Of course the acetone soak will, if not careful, remove all the natural ingredents in the wood as well. I rarely leave a stock soak more than 48hrs. All this is done outside, so you are limiting absorbing this stuff into your body.

 

[jtmattison]

Acetone. Wear rubber gloves and work in a well ventilated area. A scouring pad will help remove it faster.

HD

 

[Birddog6]

Acetone or lacquer thinner. USE WITH CAUTION !

 

[Bob Riegl]

:v My idea is to use lacquer thinner and fine (0000) steel wool and finished with more thinner and a rag. :thumbsup:

 

[shmrck1]

Brett,
Whatever you use,pick a day you can do
it outside or at least in an opened garage.
Please don't think you are being stupid by wearing
one of those soft nose/mouth protectors.
snake-eyes :hmm:

 

[Goldhunter]

I've used Citrus Gel Paint and finish stripper on two stocks. I got it at either lowes or the depot. put it on heavy, let sit for half hour, then scrap off. It can take a couple different applications to get all off. To finish I put another coat on, let sit, then scrubbed with a green scour pad and mineral spirits.

 

[ricklandes]

Paul,
I had a similar experience with a birch stock. I did the stripping and stain with a LMF walnut and then a Chambers oil finish...owner did not believe it was same stock...it had these beautiful gold stripes throughout contrasted with the chocolate walnut...

 

[ricklandes]

Do not forget to buy or use an old nylon toothbrush or stiff stencil type of paint brush (those with the short bristles)for the carving/checkering or other fine detail areas. These work well and are not agressive to the fine wood.

 

[renovato]

The easiest I've found is the gel type strippers like Stripease. It bubbles the finish quickly but gives you plenty of scraping time. I've tried acetone and it works but it's frantic work trying to stay ahead of the drying. I think Stripease is nothing but gelled acetone anyway, judging from the smell.

 

[Mulebrain]

I have stripped and cleaned many gun stocks. Over the years it seems that most strippers have lost their punch! Using nasty chemicals over and over again, and never achieving the desired result

I got fed up, and tried scraping!

The last to strip jobs came out great, and I will not use chemical strippers anymore.

I went to a local wood hobby store, and picked up two metal wood scrapers, a square one, and a curved one.

Cant beat it!

 

[BadHorse]

What is the best/easiest/prefered method to remove that horrid factory finish from cva stocks?

JASCO!

karwelis

ps worked on a nasty finish i had on a traditions

 

[Robert58]

The best thing I have found is the Cheap Walmart brand Carb Cleaner. It bubbles up the old finish real quick but doesn't dry real fast like acetone.

Robert

 

[peashooterJoe]

Amen to that and just as fast to cleanup too.. PeashooterJoe..