best non-patroleum Lube

[bnail]

I want to switch to all non-patroleum based lubes. What's the best option going? I just discovered Ballistol, but what are the alternatives?

 

[Swampman]

http://www.amoratech.com/MSDS.pdf

Balistol contains petroleum.....

I like a mixture of olive oil, bee's wax, and lard.

Or just olive oil.....

 

[bnail]

Forgive my ignorance here, as I've never been good at decyphering those things, but all I saw was isobutyl alcohol, and medicinal grade mineral oil. I like the idea of using olive oil, how effective is it as a rust inhibitor?

 

[roundball]

One option is bore butter (Natural lube 1000)...when I started with TC rifles, I decided to use TC's products and processes...and NL1000 lives up to it's claim of minimizing the effects of fouling during repeated shots, and of having no negative effects on powder when I use it for hunting...it's been excellent on all accounts for me...if you choose this route, be sure to use it heavily in the bore to ensure all clean dry surfaces are coated with it.

 

[bnail]

Thanks RB, I do use Bore butter for my bore lube, just started when my tallow ran out, can't get over the smell though, I keep wanting to rub it on my sore muscles! :haha:
What I'm most interested in is a non-petroleum lube
that I can use for rifle maintenence.

 

[Swampman]

"I like the idea of using olive oil, how effective is it as a rust inhibitor?"

I haven't found any commerical product that was better. It's cheap too.

 

[roundball]

Thanks RB, I do use Bore butter for my bore lube, just started when my tallow ran out, can't get over the smell though, I keep wanting to rub it on my sore muscles! :haha:
What I'm most interested in is a non-petroleum lube
that I can use for rifle maintenence.

Can't help you there...all my maintenance oils are petroleum based...and for what it's worth:

For trigger/lock internals after cleaning, I power flush them with aerosol WD-40, then blow it off with compressed air or at least shake/drain it off...then go back with a few drops of light Rem-Oil;

For the exterior, I just keep an old washcloth handy saturated with US military medium weapons oil I buy at gun shows, which is a suspension of lithium grease in a medium weight oil...I wipe everything down with it...metal, wood, etc

As you probably know, Natural Lube is also recommended as an exterior wipedown lube, however, it is definitely not anything I'd ever put into the lock/trigger internals...gets stiff when cold, etc.

 

[Stumpkiller]

Forgive my ignorance here, as I've never been good at decyphering those things, but all I saw was isobutyl alcohol, and medicinal grade mineral oil. I like the idea of using olive oil, how effective is it as a rust inhibitor?

A couple years ago I wiped bare steel with various lube components and flashed it with blackpowder, rinsed it with water, and set it in my car port. After two weeks:

After two weeks (several days of 85% humidity):

1 Lehigh Valley Lube

 

[dougshoot]

Another option I have recently used is from a new company called Eastern Maine Shooting Supplies. Apparently they used to work at Ox Yoke Originals and when Oxyoke closed the employees started this new company. They offer non petrolium lubes like the old oyo lube but in different scents like spruce and unscented. (No Bengay smell) I have used the products and have had great luck with my muzzleloaders and conventional firearms. You can check out their web site.[url] www.emshootingsupplies.com[/url]

Good luck

Doug

 

[Chiefs50]

Automatic Transmission Fluid. It's a cheap and extremely effective lubricant/preservative.

 

From the advice of the gentleman that built my last rifle for me I've been experimenting with the use of Automatic Transmission fluid myself with one of my rifles. So far it seems to be working. I'm also using it as a wood preservative on one of my rifles stock, and it seems to be working good there as well.

 

[Bob Riegl]

:grin: As far as the finest of this type of lube it is TSP301---available in spray form only. :hatsoff:

 

[Johnny Tremain]

Ive ussed nothing but T/C 1000 for as long as it has been out. This year, Im going with a mixture Stumb Killer posted a wee bit ago.
Seem the older I get the less store bought things I wish to use.

 

[TANSTAAFL]

http://www.ctmuzzleloaders.com/mlexperiments/corrosion/corrosion.html
[url] http://www.ctmuzzleloaders.com/mlexperiments/corrosion/corrosion2.html[/url]

 

[TANSTAAFL]

Marvels Mystery Oil is no slouch for such, good for 60 below zero too, I use it on lock internals.

 

[Swampman]

"I'm also using it as a wood preservative on one of my rifles stock,"

Yikes! Have you ever seen an old stock that rotted because of being oil soaked. I have seen a bunch. Personally I'd leave all petroleum based oils where they belong. In the garage.

 

[bnail]

I never realized there was such a wide assortment of non-patroleum products available!
I'm heartened by this, and I too will be leaving the crude off of my firelock, at least as a far as surface protection goes anyway. I'm not so certain as to the internal mechanics goes, Maybe I'll stick with my CLP for the internals for the time being. :thumbsup:

 

[Swampman]

Don't tell the rest of these guys, but I like white lithium grease on the tumbler shaft and sear. Gunslick is an excellent product for sear surfaces. Instant trigger job. No Arab juice down the bore or on outside metal parts though. It's my little way of sticking it to Big Oil. :winking:

WD-40 is an excellent solvent,and I'll put it along side duct tape and sheet rock screws as one of the greatest inventions known to mankind. Keep it off your stock, petroleum rots wood big time.

 

[rabbit03]

Baby Sea Turtle fat! :rotf: (only kidding)
Actually I use the fat from hummingbirds.

rabbit03

HOG LARD, THE BETTER LUBE.

 

[410-er]

PORK FAT RULES ! :rotf: