Beginner question, inletting metal parts and gaps

[kkortemeier]

I am working on my second build and have a question for the more experienced builders. When inletting, I can get it just right most of the times. Once in awhile, a part will not be perfect. It might have ever so slight of a gap between the metal and wood usually less than a 1/16". Beyond the mysterious "wood stretcher" are there any trade secrets for dealing with these gaps?

Thank you in advance

 

[Black Hand]

I am working on my second build and have a question for the more experienced builders. When inletting, I can get it just right most of the times. Once in awhile, a part will not be perfect. It might have ever so slight of a gap between the metal and wood usually less than a 1/16". Beyond the mysterious "wood stretcher" are there any trade secrets for dealing with these gaps?

Thank you in advance

Make sure to file a slight draft in the edge of your metal parts before you inlet them....

 

[Capt. Fred]

I had one of those gaps under my lock plate on the rifle I just finished. I cut a sliver of wood off of the block of wood on the forend, shaped the back side of it so it would fit tightly into my oops and glued it in with elmers stainable wood glue. After the glue set up I re-cut that section of the inlet so it was tight to the plate.

It worked real well and I've really got to look for it to see it now.

One other thing I've discovered: On my first couple of builds I was inletting things so they were too tight. These parts need to come in and out a ton of times and it they are too tight you risk chipping some wood out. Also, after you apply finish to the gun it can be real hard to get the parts back in. So now I inlet things so they go in and out fairly easily. Then, after the finish is applied I find they tap into place and fit just right.

 

[zampilot]

Black Hand, by 'draft' do you mean a bevel along the inside of the metal piece, 45 degrees or so?
Thanks!

 

[rabjr]

Black Hand, by 'draft' do you mean a bevel along the inside of the metal piece, 45 degrees or so?
Thanks!

Pretty much yes, you want to fit it into the wood without any gaps, so angle the metal thats fitting inside the wood. :thumbsup:

 

[Vaino]

For the part of the inlay that's below the wood surface, 2-3 degrees of draft is all that's req'd. I consider a 1/16" gap between metal and wood to be a major "screw up" and it shouldn't happen very often, if at all. If a piece of wood does break off, that's understandable, but if a large gap is due to over chiseling, then something is very wrong w/ the technique. A 1/16 gap can be filled w/ a grain matching sliver from another part of the stock, both the inlet and sliver are stained, dried and super glue is appled and the sliver is held in place for a couple of minutes.
The super glue absorbs the stain and the "fix" is nearly invisible.....Fred

 

[Vaino]

I forgot to mention that the "fix" is nearly invisible after the entire stock is stained. Also....sometimes I forget that my first attempt at a LR which was from a blank, ended up as a big blaze in the fireplace....Fred

 

[hotsparks]

A trick I've found when fitting "bling" (as opposed to 'hard' parts like locks, buttplates, etc.) is to put a slight 'cup' in the piece before you start fitting it. I put it on my sandbag and give it a couple of light taps with a small ball-peen. Fit as usual, remove, finish the stock. when you put it back in 'for good', give a light rap to the convex center and the piece will flatten and 'expand' to fit the inlet perfectly.
John

 

[Zoar]

Interesting trick. I like it.

The hardest part for me is the butt cap or butt plate. I can't seem to get both sides to look the same.

 

[Capt. Fred]

I think everybody finds those difficult. Brass ones are easier because you can tap along their edges to close up any stubborn gaps.

 

[gonzomann]

Jack brooks has a buttplate inletting method on his site that worked well for me on my first rifle.

Got to his classrom page and scroll down to the buttplate section: http://www.jsbrookslongrifles.com/theclassroom.htm

 

[peterbh]

Maple is a closed pore wood, but if you have an open pored wood like walnut and your wood is below metal level, you can hot steam the area to raise the grain then use Superglue to fill the pores and you have raised the wood level.

Now for inletting long tangs, etc, just put it on and off A LOT! Take your time.