anti-seize lubes

[chipper c]

What are some of the better anti-seize lubes out there for touch hole threads and such? Thank You for your info.

 

[Billnpatti]

I have found the breach plug grease that is intended for use on the breach plugs of the guns that are not mentioned on this forum to be very good. A tube will last you for the rest of your life.

 

[Paul_R]

In most of the "how to" videos I've seen they use Birchwood Casey Choke Tube Lube.

I happen to have lots of Permatex anti seize around the shop and it works fine.

With any anti sieze all I have to do is look at it and it's all over me. It's the damndest thing...

 

[don hepler]

A lot of antiseize grease, contains graphite, which is messy. Regular, white lithium grease and the blue choke tube greases are easier to wipe off. If you loosen the liner, before you leave the range, it will be a lot easier, when you get home.

 

[Arrowhead]

I spent some time working in a gas plant several years ago and we never assembled any thing without a product named "Neverseize" smeared on everything that had a thread. Lots of corrosive stuff in that place and nothing ever refused to release that had that on it. Fast forward to today and Permatex anti-seize appears to be the same thing. It's the same color and like the Neverseize one drop will coat you from head to toe.

 

[Zonie]

A lot of different companies make anti-seize compounds that meet military specifications so they might be called by different names but they are the same stuff.

 

[necchi]

Can't say which one is best, but like Arrowhead I use;

Permatex anti-seize appears to be the same thing.

It's the stuff you get at the Auto parts store.
Gotta say you do need to be carefull, it can be messy. But you need darn little for it to do it's job.

 

[George T.]

When you consider the conditions that automotive products have to endure I would say they will work on a rifle. Geo. T.

 

[petew]

I use Ni-Kal antiseize. It is a Nickel based loc tite product we use at work . It is a High temp bolt lube that stands up to everything a refinery has to offer.

 

[stone knife]

I use Thompson Gorilla grease on all my vent liners and choke tubes.

 

[ohio ramrod]

Good old antisieze available at any auto parts store. :idunno:

 

[Jim Blair]

Yep,we bought it by the case at work.Takes a lot of it working on D8 dozers and 621 Scrapers.Buy the high temp stuff.

 

[nkbj]

Just curious, does anyone use a graphite filled lube?
Was thinking about maybe oiling the nipple and letting seed hopper powder fill the oily threads instead of using the teflon tape.

 

[necchi]

Who's using Teflon tape on nipples?

 

[AZbpBurner]

Over the decades, I've found that nearly anything will work just fine for BP firearm anti-seize applications.

Everything already mentioned will be virtually foolproof.

By simply removing & thoroughly cleaning threads on vent hole liners or nipples between use, you're already ensuring clean threaded surfaces that are unlikely to seize up anytime soon. Bacon grease, Olive Oil, tallow + beeswax ball lube, Frog Lube, Militec Grease, Tetra Grease, Hi Temp Bearing Grease, Rem Oil - they'll ALL work for the shooter who cleans at the end of a days' shooting session, and they all work as short-term solutions.

You're not likely to install a nipple then shoot it for a few years without removing it for cleaning. This is in contrast to the specialty & milspec anti-seize compounds that are for assemblies that are made with the idea that they may never be disassembled, or at least not until an adjacent component needs removal or replacement a long time into the future.

So, if you shoot & clean on a regular basis, whether modern firearms or Black Powder, proper lube helps run the show. Unfortunately, that super lube some folks swear by as "Long Lasting", usually won't have a working surface life that exceeds the range of time from the day it was applied, to a few days later when it's all wiped off during cleaning after use.

For seasonal or archival lube, Barricade, RIG & all the hi-tech stuff has merit, since olive oil will likely varnish up in storage.

The important thing is that you use SOMETHING, whether chosen by price, compound color or smell, or the fact that you can pocket some from the shop at work.

 

[Billnpatti]

Careful using bacon grease. If it has salt in it, you will have corrosion problems. You can remove the salt by subjecting the grease to several boilings with complete changes of water for each boiling. Each time you boil the grease, you will dissolve some of the salt out of the grease. Usually 3 or 4 changes of water will get all of the salt out of the bacon grease and leave you with a clean white grease that looks like Crisco and will have no bacon smell.

 

[AZbpBurner]

Careful using bacon grease. If it has salt in it, you will have corrosion problems. You can remove the salt by subjecting the grease to several boilings with complete changes of water for each boiling. Each time you boil the grease, you will dissolve some of the salt out of the grease. Usually 3 or 4 changes of water will get all of the salt out of the bacon grease and leave you with a clean white grease that looks like Crisco and will have no bacon smell.

My bad. When I use 'bacon grease' and 'tallow' within the same text, I take it for granted that any critter fat you're gonna use will be rendered first.

Thanks for stepping up to the plate on behalf of all the young'ins & city folk around here :thumbsup: