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I’ve done a few of these and have found them to be over all pretty good. This one has very good machine work on the wood, better than others I’ve done. With some detailing this can be a dandy pistol.
 
Started doing some cosmetic and functional work. Shaping of the wood, removing casting seams, de-burring lock parts, removed the instructions from the barrel, and eliminated the plug screw in the bolster. Then for appearances re- shaped the bolster with more rounded contours.
IMG_0525 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr
IMG_0526 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr
 
Can you checker? That may be a nice touch on the grip. It looks like it will be a nice pistol with the right color and finish.
 
The lock plate and hammer has been annealed so casting seams, ejector pins and flaws can be filed out. Not only will this look better but the lock should work smoother. Also the breech anti chamber will be smoothed and internal corners blended. This chamber holds about 25 grains of powder for those interested.
IMG_0527 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr
 
The wood is down to the final sanding and to check for scratches, file marks or flat spots water based stain has been applied. Using backing blocks the final grit removes the color exposing things like this spot between the escutcheon and the lock panel. Soon I can start the metal finish.
IMG_0528 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr
 
On a gun with removable escutcheons and a key I like to add a pin to keep the key from being lost. Drilling a 1/16” hole at each end a jeweler saw connects them then a slotting wheel widens it till jeweler files fits threw to even up the slot. A notch is carved under the escutcheon to receive the pin. I find this easier than drilling a hole for the pin.
IMG_0529 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr
 

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