Adjusting hammer on TC Renegade

[Alexander323]

I've tried a couple of different 1/4 X 28 nipples on my 54 cal. The hammer, though, won't fall on the nipple flat as it should. It stops and rests on the edge of the nipple. Not letting hammer fall with full force, just easing it down as I pull trigger gently. But can tell it's not properly aligned. Do I adjust hammer? If so, how? Won't need much. Thank you.

 

[don hepler]

First thing I would do, is remove the lock, make sure there is no obstruction, or chipped wood, etc. Then re-seat the lock plate, making sure it is seated properly. I would check to see that the hammer is fully seated on the square part of the tumbler. If it is still out of alignment, then it would be necessary to bend the nose of the hammer, to get it to fit. However, I can't imagine how it would be bent out of alignment, under normal use.

 

[garra]

Just out of curiosity. Have you checked the hammer to see if there is a cap jammed in it.

I checked my renegade, hard to see what would cause that condition. Which edge is the hammer hitting the nipple on? If it is hitting on the lower edge, the nipple could be too high, is it screwing down till the shoulder is flush?

 

[don hepler]

I would also check to see if the nipple hole is cross-threaded. I bought a Renegade, one time and found out that the nipple was cross-threaded. Lucky for me TC repaired the gun, and I offered to pay, and at that time, they refused payment, and fixed it for free.

I don't know about now, but TC used to be a great company. I never tried to abuse their warranty, but I never ran into a situation where they would accept payment.

 

[necchi]

Before you go bending things,
It pays to make sure the tang and barrel are properly fitted and in the proper position in the stock.
What's happening now-a-days is many of the TC's are not the original components of the rifle as was when it left the factory,, they've been pieced together with just found or otherwise available parts. No big deal,, they should work.

Loosen the tang screws and make sure it's fully back in it's inlet and level with the top of the rifle stock. If the back of the tang is too deep it will tip the bottom of the tang forward and the barrel will be too far forward.
Sometimes the hook part of the barrel is actually making contact with the wood of the stock behind the tang,, again keeping the barrel too far forward. You can either remove the tang and chisel some wood out of the stock or file the back of the hook giving more room for the fit.

You might even remove the tang and hang it on the back of the barrel and check to be sure those two pieces fit properly.

I don't remember having to bend too many TC hammers when using a TC barrel. I have used a Dremel with a small grinding stone to open the inside diameter of the cup a bit and make sure the hammer strikes the nipple face squarely.

Just points to ponder before "bending".

 

[mooman76]

Is the hammer hitting to the side off center or not quite going down all the way? A slightly longer nipple could help the latter.

 

[necchi]

Is the hammer hitting to the side off center or not quite going down all the way? A slightly longer nipple could help the latter.

Nope,, think about it,,

 

[Idaho Ron]

I have Green Mountain barrels on all my TC's. I have corrected the strike on all of them. Some needed a little some needed a lot. On one of them I altered the part that my thumb sits on. I need to do the rest since it helps with the peep sights.

 

[Elkeater]

Ron, were you able to bend the spur without loosing the blueing? If so, how?

 

[Rifleman1776]

Re-read wat Necchi said. Do check out all other possibilities before trying to bend anything. I have experienced one (early) TC hammer that just would not bend with propane heat. Suspect a welding torch would be required to soften it enough to bend. Bending is a last resort.

 

[Idaho Ron]

Ron, were you able to bend the spur without loosing the blueing? If so, how?

I used a cutting torch to heat it up. After I bent it I got it very warm on the edge of hot and blued it.

 

[Elkeater]

Thank you

 

[Christophero]

Smith & Wesson now owns TC and they DON'T know anything about these rifles. They threw my good barrel away because they no longer have someone who can retap the drum\nipple threads. The barrel they replaced it with doesn't line up, such as yours.
I went to Friendship this summer and purchased another hammer to make it work, again.

 

[Mad Professor]

Smith & Wesson now owns TC and they DON'T know anything about these rifles. They threw my good barrel away because they no longer have someone who can retap the drum\nipple threads. The barrel they replaced it with doesn't line up, such as yours.
I went to Friendship this summer and purchased another hammer to make it work, again.

Sad we lost the old TC to the clowns at S + W. I'll never buy anything from them, ever.

 

[Crewdawg445]

Smith & Wesson now owns TC and they DON'T know anything about these rifles. They threw my good barrel away because they no longer have someone who can retap the drum\nipple threads. The barrel they replaced it with doesn't line up, such as yours.
I went to Friendship this summer and purchased another hammer to make it work, again.

Sad we lost the old TC to the clowns at S + W. I'll never buy anything from them, ever.

I'll give a thumbs up to that.

 

[JDBraddy]

I'm having the exact same issue with a new Green Mountain drop-in barrell on a TC. The flash hole that the nipple screws into was tapped off-center.

Is this part of the breech plug assembly, and if so can the breech plug assembly simply be replaced to correct the issue? If so, how would I do that?

 

[1sgt]

JD, the barrel/breech and tang seem to be out of alignment, in the same direction your hammer is out. (In your second picture) If you take the barrel out and check how the hook fits the tang before you put the wedge back in you may be able to twist the fit for a better alignment. Is the barrel 15/16 and the tang1 inch? It looks like the hammer is close to fitting if the hook and tang were aligned. I try everything else before bending anything.