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.50 target loads

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redwing

58 Cal.
Joined
Sep 15, 2004
Messages
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Have never worked up a target loads for my TVM .50. I have
decided to do some club paper shoots. They shoot the 25
50 and 100 Yd. matches.
The rifle has a GM 42"Bl. Siler{Large}Chamber WL Vent.
I load Swiss 3f main Chg. and Gator 7F pan powder. Use
French and Fuller BEFs.
I tried some paper shooting and found it to be a tough
game. In the past I only shot trail, and some hunting
with the rifle. The rifle has always done fine. I can
see that I need some loads for paper.

Redwing :redthumb:

:thanks:
 
while every gun has its own appetite, and you'll have to figure yours out, here's what I use:at 25 and 50 yds, 40 gr of fffg, and 100 yds, 50 gr. fffg...Hank
 
Depending on the rifle 40 to 50 grs at 25 and 50 yards and 70 to 80 grains at 100 yds.

Othern
 
Depending on the rifle 40 to 50 grs at 25 and 50 yards and 70 to 80 grains at 100 yds.

Othern


Don't know how others feel, but using one load and knowing how that load behaves at all ranges makes it very easy to shoot at any target you might have to attempt.

I use 60 grains with a patched roundball. It is two inches high at 25 yards, a little over three inches high at 50 and dead on at 100. Works well for me. I keep the ballistics in mind and don't worry about changing the load. Works well for hunting as well as woods wolks and paper targets.

Jester :m2c:
 
Don't know how others feel, but using one load and knowing how that load behaves at all ranges makes it very easy to shoot at any target you might have to attempt.
I use 60 grains with a patched roundball. It is two inches high at 25 yards, a little over three inches high at 50 and dead on at 100. Works well for me. I keep the ballistics in mind and don't worry about changing the load. Works well for hunting as well as woods wolks and paper targets.
Jester :m2c:
That's my approach too...except I use a 50yd zero instead of 100...as 99% of my woods shots are 30-60yds, and I know I'll just need a couple inches hold-over if the day ever comes that I get a 100yd shot
 
I use 50 grains of 3f for both of my guns for 15 to 100 yards after sighting in 25 yards and just keep how they print in the back of my mind. It keeps life simple and I do alright keeping up with the big boys at my club,some of whom are not that bad.If I was trying for the Olympics I might get more fussy.
 
I tend to agree with most of the others about the one load. Knowing how your weapon performs at various ranges is, in my opinion, the most logical approach.

My .50 has a GM 42" bbl. I'm partial to 70 gr. of Goex FFG with a .490 RB. That's my hunting load, shilouette load, and paper load. I adjust according to the range. Works good on critters and metal targets, but the paper matches are my weak area.

Most important thing is what works for you. My little pea-brain can't keep up with different powder charges. It's easier for me to "hold a fuzz high".
 
I have three 50s and each of them like a different load. My Tennesse with a 42" Green Mountain likes 40 gr. FFFg for 25 and 50 yards and 60 grains for 100. My 42" Getz likes 45 gr. FFFg for 25 and 50. It's a new rifle so haven't tried it at 100 yet. I have a CVA Mountain Rifle that likes 50 grains FFFg at 25 and 50 yards and 70 grains at 100.

You'll just have to work up a good load for your rifle. The easiest way to do it is start with a base load and bench it at 25 yards. Don't worry about the point of impact just go for group size. Increase the load until you get the tightest group. After you do that then mess with the patching to see if it will tighten up further.

I took my latest rifle out a few days ago and started at 40 grains. 45 grains seemed to give the tightest group which was about 1 1/2 to two inches. at 25 yards. A switch to a little tighter patching brought it into one ragged hole. It takes a little time but it is worth it.

When you have the rifle shooting its best it gives you the assurance that all the sprayed shots shooting offhand are you and not the rifle. :eek:
 
Although I am not new to this sport I still don't understand why you would change your loads to shoot target
It would seem to me that you change the point of impact of you bullet and if you hunt with the same gun wouldn't this
mess with your mind .

The Welshman :imo:
 
Because a lot of us shoot several thousand shots a year. The full service loads get kind of old at that rate. Cut the powder in half and you save money on top of it. I keep my hunting guns sighted with service loads, but I lowered my hunting load a little and raised my target load a little to get a happy medium. I shoot 70 grains all the time.
 
Hello all. I agree. I shoot a .50 cal flinter and hunting loads are not something I can shoot all day! Right now I'm working up a load for elk with 385 gr conicals and I have the shoulder bruise to prove it:)

For plinking I shoot 60 gr of FFg and a .495 round ball. I'ts great fun and I can get a lot of shots per pound. Seems my medium twist barrel likes 60 gr for round ball so that is what I use.

Going hunting is like getting in shape. Well before the season starts I switch to the load that I will use for said game and....work out:) Great fun.
 
Thanks for all your input. I know that paper is my weak
area found that out. Made copies of your ideas and will
try them out.

Redwing :redthumb: :thanks:
 
Over the years I have read quite a few posts that indicate a lot of shooters use different loads for shooting targets and for hunting.

Several years ago I started trying to reduce the amount of equipment I need for shooting, whether it be at targets or when hunting. I have funnelled my muzzle, changed to a looser ball and patch combination, a fixed capacity powder measure, and I load and prime from the same horn. I no longer need a short starter or a priming powder container. I can now concentrate on my target and where to hold my sight on it instead of fumbling around in a napsack sized shooting bag for unnecessary equipment and trying to remember how much powder to use at different distances. Simplicity suits me better, specially since as I gets older I seem to forget more things.

As I was saying, before I sidetracked myself, it amazed me that so many folks used different loads for hunting and for targets. And then I realized maybe those folks are shooting roundballs at targets and maxi/mini balls at game (which would require different loads)and have adjustable sights on their rifles.

That's all too complicated for an old f@+t like me. I don't shoot nothin but round balls, and my rifle has fixed sights and a single simple trigger. I just load, aim, and fire. Life's too short for me to complicate things that should be simple.

Richard/GA.
 
Simplicity is good. I've done a lot of that myself. Eliminating the dangles, jangles and tangles that lots of shooters lug around.

But I still use a light load for small game and a heavier one for whitetail. What's that add? A powder measure. Or, double pour from one for large & single throw for small. I've seen original measures with a hole in the side. Fill to the hole for the light charge or plug the hole with your finger and fill to the top for the heavy. I intend to do that with the measure for my current rifle once I figure out her likes.

And, for the most part, I use one rifle for all my shooting. Single trigger for me, too. :front:

I sight in 2" high at 50 yards for deer and then experiment at 25 until I find a light load that hits dead on.

I've pared my shooting gear down pretty light. Here are the contents of my hunting bag - enough for 40 shots and clean-up at the end of the day.
Pouchcontents.jpg


Not shown are the tow jag and patch jag from the patchbox of my rifle. At present I'm also carrying a 2 oz. priming flask of FFFFg, but I just opened up the vent hole to 5/64" and will see if that helps me prime with FFg (as I always did with my fusil). And, I just ordered one of Ted Cash's little oiler bottles for a bit of bear oil I would like to carry with me.

PouchandHorn1.jpg


I can do three shots with just the horn for a quick trot up the hill to rid the garden of a woodchuck (note the small block on the strap). There's also a five shot ball block in a sheath on the back of the pouch.
 
During my mental rambling I disremembered why I started that post in the first place. My pore old brain won't hold but just so much information and when I tries to store new information in it I just naturally loose something that was in there. Some times what I loose is more important than what I want to remember.

Anyway, my point was I shoot the same load whether I'm hunting or shooting targets. I work up the most accurate load my rifle will handle with a patch and ball combination that does not require using a short starter or range rod. I found that rifles usually have two loads that perform well, and I always go with the higher velocity load. My 50 caliber Getz barreled Lancaster flinter likes 55 and 67-68 grains of fffg. Goex equally, so I use the heavier load and adjust my fixed sights accordingly.

I have been trying your Moose snot lube and have had good results so far. I still need a to fine tune that load a little more but is sure looks promising. Thanks for sharing your recipe.

Richard/Ga.
 
Where are there any clubs in Indsana. I live in southern part of the state. :thanks:
 
Depending on the rifle 40 to 50 grs at 25 and 50 yards and 70 to 80 grains at 100 yds.

Othern


Don't know how others feel, but using one load and knowing how that load behaves at all ranges makes it very easy to shoot at any target you might have to attempt.

I use 60 grains with a patched roundball. It is two inches high at 25 yards, a little over three inches high at 50 and dead on at 100. Works well for me. I keep the ballistics in mind and don't worry about changing the load. Works well for hunting as well as woods wolks and paper targets.

Jester :m2c:

thets purty much the same :front: how it works in my york
 
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