• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

'nother casting question

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
the temp scale on the Lee is just sort of close anyhow.You could buy a thermometer if knowing exact temp i important to you. Or just run it up to the top and go.If the mold overheats tune the temp back a bit and or slow down.

George
 
I usually turn mine back down to about 7 after initial start up. That equates to about 800 degrees. Both of my Lee Prod Pots run about the same. GW
 
Likewise with both of mine.
one likes about 6 1/2 and the other is at 6 3/4ish.
The scale is merely a reference.
Your results out of the molds will dictate more or less heat!
 
Grey Whiskers said:
I usually turn mine back down to about 7 after initial start up. That equates to about 800 degrees. Both of my Lee Prod Pots run about the same. GW


Mine works the same. I do use a thermometer to find 800 and it is at "7" on my pot.
 
To where you start to get that frosty look on the balls. Too low, you get wrinkles. Too high and it will take too long for ball/puddle to harden. Like others mine is somewhere near the '7' setting.
 
Stumpkiller said:
Not sure how calibrated that scale might be from one pot to the next.

It's about as calibrated as my ice skating. :grin:

I go by a thermometer and my pot actually varies a little from session to session. I've loaned the thermo to three friends, and they each report a little different dial setting to get the temp. The four pots range from a low of about 6 1/2 to a high of almost 7 1/2.

Without the thermo I'd set it on high till the lead melts and trial casts are producing clean balls, then drop it down to somewhere between 7 and 8. As the session goes on you might be able to drop it to at least 7, but with suitable reheating breaks if you add more lead.
 
Well, looks like you got yer numbers.

With pure lead, crank it up till you see that irredesent bule color floating on top,, might even wrinkle a little bit, then back off some.

As others have said your mold will tell you after that, aluminum molds lose heat faster than steel so you can run a little cooler.
If it's too hot with steel molds then it takes a long time for the sprue too cool.
Best results are as hot as possible to maintain casting temp with the blocks but only with pure lead.
Toss another pound in the pot an things will change for the first 5 minutes.
If you have an alloy, running too hot will give the ball a frosted appearance.
 
Back
Top