.32 Traditions Crockett kit

Started this "build", having some issues. Biggest one being with lock. The "hole" on the hammer goes over the nipple, but just barely, sometimes scraping the forward edge of the hammer before barely sitting just inside the hole. Should I worry much about this? If the rifle will function without wood removal on the lock inlet, or elsewhere, I'll leave as is. If the strike needs to be more centered, I'll have to fiddle around with either moving barrel/nipple placement down, and back a little, or the lock.

Maybe remove some wood in the breech end of the barrel channel and the rear of the tang to allow the barrel to move back some. This should allow the hammer to then strike the nipple in a more centered location.

Sidney Smith said:

Maybe remove some wood in the breech end of the barrel channel and the rear of the tang to allow the barrel to move back some. This should allow the hammer to then strike the nipple in a more centered location.

Click to expand...

I thought about that.. the limiting factor here is the barrel tang screw that goes through the stock to the trigger plate. Cant move it past what would be aligned with those holes, and I already flitted that portion.

Making changes can set off a chain of problems. On the Crockett moving the barrel back will cause the wedge and escutcheon to have to be fiddled with and so on. It's best to make any changes at the point the change is necessary and only as much as necessary. Bending the hammer would solve the problem where it exists without setting off a chain reaction.

I had problems with hammer fit on my Crockett kit and found fiddling with the lock inletting solved the problem I used a palm chisel to make an adjustment.

Sidney Smith said:

Maybe remove some wood in the breech end of the barrel channel and the rear of the tang to allow the barrel to move back some. This should allow the hammer to then strike the nipple in a more centered location.

Click to expand...

That's what I did with a poor alignment of hammer/nipple on a GPR. Plugged one side only of the wood in the bolt hole, and re drilled it. Worked like a charm after moving the barrel back 1/8".
You can file the 1/8" off one side of a barrel wedge if that becomes a problem.

I'll start with the breech block and see where that takes me. The barrel channel will need some sanding to seat the barrel properly, so I'm sure things will look a little different after that but we'll see.

I'm also having trouble with the trigger plate. The back part sticks out from the stock probably 1/8 or so, probably less.. I marked the underside and fitted to see where it was obstructed. Also filed a nominal amount off the bottom part around the screws hole. So I'm thinking either shim the front of the plate up(already tried this and it shifted the back part right in), or... suggestions? I could continue removing wood/metal, but wanted to check here first. Sidenote: the lock/trigger function "seems" to be fine in it's current position.

Mount the trigger plate in its slot then file it flush with the stock. Removing wood way cause the trigger bar to engage the sear bar too eay which will cause you to not be able to cock the hammer. If it works now then do as I suggested and file the face of the plate flush. This way it's not impeding sear movement.