Got cheeks lined up drilled and bolts in. Super stressful drilling straight across. Took a mountain of time lining all up right. Glad that is over. Will take apart now and clean up cheeks and drill for trunnions.
Thanks ! Do you mean the roundels? ?. Good point, but this is just a saluting piece so recoil won’t be that big a problem.... I hope. Also the barrel width from trunnions to breach is the same so I won’t have to angle the cheeks, I will butt the cheeks up in a piece of wood and clamp down. Will put Forster bit right in the crack and drill. This is starting to sound kinda inappropriate !!Nice work! The carriages I've seen countersink one of the trunnions to increase bearing surface for recoil resistance. Can't remember if they countersink both the trail & the cheek, but seems like that would be very hard to precisely line both sides up. I assume you will use a Forstner bit. I'll be anxious to see how you do this. Just wanted to add that I'm talking about the trunnions that go around the bolts (if that's the correct term) not the cannon barrel trunnions.
Had to buy one for 24.00. I’m done now. I’ll post some picsYes, roundels! The name escaped me. That Forstner bit is pretty big. Did you have one already or did you have to buy one. Would a hole drill work, as well??
spend the money for a Forster it’s sharp and leaves a super clean hole. Spade it might rattle around and leave a ragged holeYes, roundels! The name escaped me. That Forstner bit is pretty big. Did you have one already or did you have to buy one. Would a hole drill work, as well??
Sorry, yes a hole saw would work just has to be super sharpYes, roundels! The name escaped me. That Forstner bit is pretty big. Did you have one already or did you have to buy one. Would a hole drill work, as well??
Given that hole saws of any size aren't really less than $24, I'd opt for the Forstner. Even a new, sharp hole saw will leave a ragged edge because of the set of the saw teeth. The Forstner cuts a nice, clean-sided hole top to bottom (and leaves a cleaner flat bottom to stopped holes).Would a hole drill work, as well??
Yes that was my thought in pricing thank you for looking !Given that hole saws of any size aren't really less than $24, I'd opt for the Forstner. Even a new, sharp hole saw will leave a ragged edge because of the set of the saw teeth. The Forstner cuts a nice, clean-sided hole top to bottom (and leaves a cleaner flat bottom to stopped holes).
Lookin' good, Dismount!
I really struggled with that. I opted out of lining the trunnions. I may pay for that decisionThose trunnion pockets you just cut look nice. They are going to be lined with iron right? Did you take that into consideration?
For instance, if your cheek straps are going to be 1/8" thick, that pocket hole you just drilled should be 1/4" bigger than your trunnion size.
And the half hole will need to be 1/8" shallower to allow for the 1/8" strapping .
This may a stupid idea but... thought I would line The pockets with banding strap thin enough to hide but offer some wood protection yeah kinda shade tree mechanicI really struggled with that. I opted out of lining the trunnions. I may pay for that decision
Thanks for that tip on drilling correctly to allow for metal strapping. I probably would have not calculated the 1/8" shallower correction & would have to start over on the cheeks.Those trunnion pockets you just cut look nice. They are going to be lined with iron right? Did you take that into consideration?
For instance, if your cheek straps are going to be 1/8" thick, that pocket hole you just drilled should be 1/4" bigger than your trunnion size.
And the half hole will need to be 1/8" shallower to allow for the 1/8" strapping .
ALSO THIS IS JUST A SALUTE PIECE, NOT SUBJECT TO HEAVY RECOIL,I really struggled with that. I opted out of lining the trunnions. I may pay for that decision
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