Zouave nipple location

[jh2oman]

I recently made a trade for an Antonio Zoli .58 cal Zouave musket. The Italian proof mark dates it to 1970 manufacture. The gun has a problem with the nipple loaction in relation to the hammer -- the front edge of the hammer (the inside of the cupped portion) just barely clears the front edge of the nipple. A winged musket cap often gets mashed out of position without even going off. The gun came with a replacement nipple that takes #11 caps and it works OK in that I get consistant ignition, but the back portion of the hammer face is positioned over the wood stock and the blowby from the hammer face is severely burning the wood.
I was wondering if any members had similar experiences with an older Zoli like this one, and if a replacement hammer was in order, or if I need to try to re-inlet the barrel further into the stock towards the breech end? A replacement hammer from Dixie is $18.50, but I barely have time to shoot, let alone re-inlet the stock! Seems to me the tang bolt would then end up out of position , too.
Suggestions, anyone?

Regards,
JW

 

[RedFeather]

My Zouave was purchased in mid-73, so it's not too far off from your's. I've had no problem with the hammer firing tophats. Have you looked at the hammer to see if it's been drilled out off-center. In other words, is the hammer nose centered? Maybe there is enough material for you to take a Dremel tool and open it up enough? I would be surprised if the lock were set too far back, but I guess it could have happened. What's the angle of the nipple? Maybe the bolster was drilled off-angle? If you can find someone with another Zoli Zouave, see if they will let you try their barrel or your lock for fit, whichever is easier.

 

[paulvallandigham]

If you can find someone with an acetylene torch, you can heat that hammer nose and neck enough to bend it forward to give you more clearance. YOu may have to use a small grinding bit in something like a dremel tool to grind the surface of the hammer face even with the top of the nipple, but that is about a half hour's work. If you use lipstick or marking dye on the top edge of the nipple, and lower the hammer down so that the dye marks the high spots on the hammer, you then grind the high spot down until the hammer face is hitting in a complete circle.

As long as they have them, I would recommend buying the extra hammer for the gun, and keep it, with an extra mainspring, just in case you need it in the future. You can get your money out of them when the gun is sold.

 

[wulf]

All good suggestions. I got mine in 1958/9 and gave up on the "top Hat" caps and installed the#
ten cap nipple.I have never had a miss fire. To protect the wood I made a flash shield that the nipple held that folded up and around the hammer to sheild the stock and also prevent any blow back towards the shooter's eyes..some wood still
gets a little scorched but who am i saving it for?

 

[Big John]

As Paul said, Take the hammer off, put it in a vice and bend it approx. 1/8in, quickest way to solve the problem. This happens in many percussion rifles.

 

[jh2oman]

I'll take Paul's suggestion. I will get the spare hammer first, just to make sure if I screw up I have a backup. Using #10 or 11 caps on the other nipple would work, along with some protection for the wood, but I want to make the thing right.
-- I've been searching the forum for tips with regards to the rear sights -- found a lot of good infomation. When I order the spare hammer I think I'l get another rear sight blade to play with, too. Looks like I have a project! On the bright side, the gun does group RB real nice!

Thanks All!
JW