Wipe with dry patch?

[pepperbelly]

I have read many threads from people who get a jag and patch stuck because they use a dry patch.
I also read that a dry patch is supposed to be used after cleaning and when wiping between shots.
Now I'm confused. What makes a dry patch get stuck?

BTW, some of the older members may remember that I have had this flintlock for several years, and I still haven't been able to take it out. I got it just before I lost dad and now my wife is battling problems, including melanoma, so I have my hands full raisng daughters and taking care of the house.

I really want to get time to get stuff prepped and go shoot this thing. Jack Garner didn't make a rifle this beautiful just to let it sit in a safe. Have patience with me- it will be shot, hopefully soon. I am basically on my own around here so the only help I can get is from this board.

 

[Idaho Ron]

You need to run a wet one down first then followed by a dry one or two. If you shoot and run a dry one down first your most likely going to get it stuck. Ron

 

[pepperbelly]

Ahh, I think I get it. I can safely run a dry patch through a wet bore, but shouldn't run a dry patch through a dry bore?

 

[Zonie]

Well, your right on both accounts.

When cleaning your rifle you will have to run several dry patches down the bore to dry it.

A dry patch is also run down and up the bore (once) if your drying the moisture from a damp patch that was used to wipe between shots.

A dry patch can become stuck in the bore, usually when your are trying to remove it.

I think the important thing to remember is most of the time, the dry patch won't get stuck.

Usually, when they do get stuck it is because the dry wiping patch was larger than necessary.

If the dry patch is larger than necessary it is easy for it to get bunched up into a wad just above the metal cleaning jag it is on.

Sometimes this wad will get some of itself down between the jag and itself and end up wedging into the bore stopping all further movement in either direction.

I've also seen dry patches get stuck if they are shoved down a fouled bore.
The dry patch won't soften the fouling and fouling is rougher than a cob so it will instantly grab the patch and prevent any further movement.

If either of these things happens, the worst thing you can do is to try to use force to pull the stuck patch out.

The best thing you can do is to pour just a little water down the bore to wet the stuck patch. Let it soak for 10 seconds or more and then give a light push to the ramrod to move the patch and jag in a direction opposite the direction that got it stuck.

99.99999 percent of the time the stuck patch will become unstuck and will easily pull out of the barrel.

 

[azmntman]

A wet patch will break down "stuff" and come out, a dry patch in a dirty barrel will not break it down and the "stuff" wins. If ya get it stuck push it down all the way and unscrew jag from rod, use a few gains to blow it all out into a pillow or such so u recover the jag.

Works for me

 

[pepperbelly]

Well, your right on both accounts.

When cleaning your rifle you will have to run several dry patches down the bore to dry it.

A dry patch is also run down and up the bore (once) if your drying the moisture from a damp patch that was used to wipe between shots.

A dry patch can become stuck in the bore, usually when your are trying to remove it.

I think the important thing to remember is most of the time, the dry patch won't get stuck.

Usually, when they do get stuck it is because the dry wiping patch was larger than necessary.

If the dry patch is larger than necessary it is easy for it to get bunched up into a wad just above the metal cleaning jag it is on.

Sometimes this wad will get some of itself down between the jag and itself and end up wedging into the bore stopping all further movement in either direction.

I've also seen dry patches get stuck if they are shoved down a fouled bore.
The dry patch won't soften the fouling and fouling is rougher than a cob so it will instantly grab the patch and prevent any further movement.

If either of these things happens, the worst thing you can do is to try to use force to pull the stuck patch out.

The best thing you can do is to pour just a little water down the bore to wet the stuck patch. Let it soak for 10 seconds or more and then give a light push to the ramrod to move the patch and jag in a direction opposite the direction that got it stuck.

99.99999 percent of the time the stuck patch will become unstuck and will easily pull out of the barrel.

Thanks for those tips. I really appreciate it.
As for the text I bolded- you have no idea just how special I am. :grin:

 

[M. De Land]

That will work but only if the jag is brass. Don't shoot out a worm or a steel jag! Mike D.

 

[pepperbelly]

That will work but only if the jag is brass. Don't shoot out a worm or a steel jag! Mike D.

I only use brass jags for any firearm. I didn't even know they made steel jags.

 

[azmntman]

Me too. But ya, ONLY brass

 

[bpd303]

Also make sure the rod tip is pinned to the rod to prevent it from pulling off in case of a stuck patch. Many a ramrod tip has been left in the bottom of the barrel causing a lot of grief getting it out. :cursing:

 

[Zonie]

I haven't seen any steel jags and I have more brass jags than you can shake a stick at.

One odd one I have is a .50 caliber aluminum jag.

I might mention that all of my jags have steel threads though.

A few of the 'el' cheapo' brass jags I've seen have brass threads that screw into the ramrod tip.

These are a problem waiting to happen.
Those little brass threads can shear off almost by giving them a hard stare so, don't use them.

Buy a #8-32 or a #10-32 tap and the suitable size tap drill for the threads.
Cut off the old brass threads flush with the back of the jag.
Use a nail or a center punch to indent a starting location for the tap drill and then drill about 3/8" deep in the center of the jag.

Use the tap to cut the threads and then screw in a suitable #8-32 or #10-32 X 5/8" long set screw.

 

[Rifleman1776]

If the dry patch is larger than necessary it is easy for it to get bunched up into a wad just above the metal cleaning jag it is on.

That is what the cleaning patch is supposed to do, wet or dry. That bunched up portion is what gets into the rifling to drag out crud as you pull back up.
Patches do stick at times but a good bore and proper jag/patch combo should not stick.

 

[rafterob]

Zonie touched on it and the only time I have had and/or witnessed a stuck dry patch was in a fouled barrel. Pour a little water down, let it soak in and it will come right out.

 

[azmntman]

Happened to me twice today! I shot like a punk holding a snubby sideways too! Then I found out I had a .45 jag on my .50 ramrod. that solved that but I still shot bad as ever. I hate bad days!

 

[Semisane]

Well, this is a little off topic - but not too far.

With respect to wiping the bore between shots with a wet patch, I never follow my wet (actually slightly damp) patch with a dry wipe. However, I use 91% Isopropryl alcohol for the damp patch. So long as the patch was not real wet the bore will be dry by the time you're ready to pour powder.

 

[azmntman]

I wonder if cheap whiskey would work....would be slower pour time after several shots? :blah:

 

[Carl Fowler III]

Wouldn't know for sure as I only use top shelve booze...and I certainly am not going to waste it on cleaning my barrel! :slap: Besides, I got the patch size, jag size, and Moose Milk amount figured just right and this here problem has gone away not to raise it's ugly head since!

Remember Whiskey is for drinking...but only after the shoot'n! :thumbsup:

 

[Billnpatti]

Where you get in trouble using a dry patch is when either your jag/patch combination is pretty tight in the bore or when the bore is pretty dirty. If you wipe between shots with a snug but not overly tight jag/patch combo, a dry patch will not be likely to get stuck. Dutch Schoultz recommends wiping between shots with a just barely wet patch. His recipe for his wiping solution is 1 part Ballistol, 1 part Pine-O-Pine and 20 parts water. When you wipe, you do it exactly the same way each and every time so that the bore remains exactly the same from shot to shot. Dutch recommends simply running a slightly damp patch to the breach with one smooth stroke and removing it in one smooth stroke. No pumping. Doing it this way keeps the bore the same shot to shot and it will not have a build-up of patch grabbing fouling.

But, try jamming an overly tight jag/dry patch combination into a fouled bore and you have the recipe for a stuck patch.

As they say on Duck Dynasty "That's the fact, Jack." :haha: