• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

What Muzzleloading Stuff Did You Do Today?

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
This morning I made my first attempt at constructing paper cartridges. They came out looking uglier than homemade sin.
With a bit more experience I feel confident I can roll better specimens that my Uberti Walker won't be too embarrassed to consume.
IMG_0430.jpg
 
Since the previous thread was shut down (locked) by our new moderator, I thought I would start one up again, as per the suggestion.
So, let's get this thread going again, and share your muzzleloading related adventures of the day!
Where would I find someone to work on the screw hole for the drum on the barrel, on my cva Kentucky long rifle.
When I tighten the drum it goes past the hammer if it's tight?
I can post pics later, the boss is sleeping and i know better than go digging in the closet for it, and make a bunch of noise.. only noise it just an orange cat running around like a maniac.
 
Got myself a sewer pipe on the inside complete Renegade barrel assembly for a decent price. I have everything I need to make a gun except the wood of a 54 cal WMC.

As I wait for Mr. Hoyt to take work again, I am hoping a stock pops up. Now what to make to make with it?

54 cal 1:32 twist carbine? 24" or 25 "? I be thinking 25" 54 cal 1:32. My leanings anyway.
 
Where would I find someone to work on the screw hole for the drum on the barrel, on my cva Kentucky long rifle.
When I tighten the drum it goes past the hammer if it's tight?
I can post pics later, the boss is sleeping and i know better than go digging in the closet for it, and make a bunch of noise.. only noise it just an orange cat running around like a maniac.
If it comes off, you can find the right sized shim for it.
 
Today is last ditch effort to lighten the trigger pull on my Pedersoli.
Since I have already filed the sear spring down to where the tip is about 1/16", bringing the pull weight to 9-5 (which is a vast improvement), I'm going to try something a little different.
 
Today is last ditch effort to lighten the trigger pull on my Pedersoli.
Since I have already filed the sear spring down to where the tip is about 1/16", bringing the pull weight to 9-5 (which is a vast improvement), I'm going to try something a little different.
If you have the standard Pedersoli double trigger assembly, try installing the spring with just enough turns on the screw to make contact with the set trigger. Play with different adjustments, a turn in or a turn out until you get the desired set trigger pull. Then you can adjust the external main trigger screw for the break you want.
 
If you have the standard Pedersoli double trigger assembly, try installing the spring with just enough turns on the screw to make contact with the set trigger. Play with different adjustments, a turn in or a turn out until you get the desired set trigger pull. Then you can adjust the external main trigger screw for the break you want.


Thanks.
It's a single trigger. No adjustment except, from what I've read, tapering it more from the V bend to the tip that rests against the sear.

What I just did, which only lightened it down to 9lbs even (unbelievable) is take my dremel with a narrow stone wheel and instead of going from the V to the tip in a straight line by filing, I put a steeper curve in it and a longer section of the 1/16". If you can follow that. I though for sure it would lighten it more than what it did.

I'm wondering if I should just order a new spring and take a chance that it will be lighter...

I can remove the spring and lift up on the lever and everything moves easily. But as soon as that spring is in place I know before putting the lock in the gun that it's still too heavy. Although it is getting easier to put the spring into the lock each time I remove material. The sear tip is so far forward, close to the pivot point, that I know that is playing into this.

It looks like this, except mine doesn't have that slight bend in it.
sear spring.png
 
Shot a soda can at 25 yards with the Jonathan Browning Mountain Rifle in .54. I'd put just a little water in the bottom of the can to keep it from blowing away but not enough to make the can explode so I have several sharp aluminum shards to pick up later. This particular can was shot dead center and did not move so much as a millimeter. I thought I had missed, but I looked again and even at 25 yards, I could see daylight through the .54 caliber plus hole in the can:

can.jpg
 
Thanks.
It's a single trigger. No adjustment except, from what I've read, tapering it more from the V bend to the tip that rests against the sear.

What I just did, which only lightened it down to 9lbs even (unbelievable) is take my dremel with a narrow stone wheel and instead of going from the V to the tip in a straight line by filing, I put a steeper curve in it and a longer section of the 1/16". If you can follow that. I though for sure it would lighten it more than what it did.

I'm wondering if I should just order a new spring and take a chance that it will be lighter...

I can remove the spring and lift up on the lever and everything moves easily. But as soon as that spring is in place I know before putting the lock in the gun that it's still too heavy. Although it is getting easier to put the spring into the lock each time I remove material. The sear tip is so far forward, close to the pivot point, that I know that is playing into this.

It looks like this, except mine doesn't have that slight bend in it.
View attachment 197962
Have you tried tempering the hardness out of the spring by placing it in the oven at a low temperature (say 200 degrees F) for a very few minutes (say 5) at a time until it softens up enough (careful or the spring will no longer be a "spring" if left too long). May want to go ahead and order a new spring just in case...
 
Have you tried tempering the hardness out of the spring by placing it in the oven at a low temperature (say 200 degrees F) for a very few minutes (say 5) at a time until it softens up enough (careful or the spring will no longer be a "spring" if left too long). May want to go ahead and order a new spring just in case...


I have not tried that. I didn't even know about it.
I was thinking of physically fatiguing the spring... but then though better of that. It's so small I'm 90% sure I'd send it flying.
I'll give tempering a try. Thanks for mentioning it.

And I ordered another spring this morning before taking the Dremel to this one ;)
 
Back
Top