• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

What do I need to know?

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Bluegrass

36 Cal.
Joined
May 17, 2004
Messages
92
Reaction score
40
I'm going to be lookin' for a .36 caliber Kentucky flinter at Friendship this weekend but I'm still no flintlock expert. What do I really need to know before I lay down my money on a flinter?

If I pick up a nice one, I'll be sure to post some pictures in the Photo forum! :p
 
What do you need to know?

Three things:
1.) You get what you pay for.
b.) Pay attention to the vent location - everything else can be adjusted, but not that (easily, anyhow).
iii.) Don't be sucked in my cosmetics. You'll love an ugly flintlock if it is accurate and reliable. You'll hate a pretty flintlock that misfires and is inaccurate.

Read these two links from our "Links" section.

Learning to Flint

Flintlocks Revisited

The vent should be centered in the pan and the center of the hole should be just slightly above the level of the pan's rim. The lock should operate smoothly. Hold the gun up to your ear (against the sideplate - opposite side of the lock) and cock the hammer ("cock"). It should sound like a series of sharp "Clicks". No grinding, no dragging.

The frizzen should fit tightly all around the pan. The bore should be shiny and free of rust or fouling.

Ask if you can snap the lock. The trigger should be light and crisp, and should spark well (lots, not one or two embers).

And, try it for fit. Does it feel right? Is it comfortable?
 
Blue....stop by Tip Curtis Frontier Shop.....he will show you what to look for and will have many examples of styles and periods. Won't matter if you are buying or not I recon...course he would like to sell you one, but he wont lie or misrepresent his products....You can buy from parts...semi finished... all the way to finished shooters from him. You can feel free to mention my name....wont matter one way or the other, but it is a starting place.
 
TwoShadows,thanks for the suggestion. Sounds interesting.

Thanks a lot for the links Stumpkiller, lots of good info. So when your shootin' a flinter, first you prime the pan, then you ram the ball, then you put a cap on the nipple..... Um,ok, maybe I should read it again. ::
 
Bluegrass: I will be there on Sat. morning with a .36 cal Isaac Haines for sale & a custom Southgate .40 cal for sale also. If either one is something that may be of interest, send me an email & we will make a meeting arrangement.
[email protected]
 
Well Birddog, I aint sure when exactly I'll be there,(I might end up going during the week.) so you don't have to hold on to your rifles fer me.

If I do happen to be there when you are, how can I tell ya from the rest of the sellers?
 
Not a problem... Hope you get to go as it is a neat place.

I will be walking around wearing a tan ball hat and on the front of it says www.CustomMuzzleloaders.com and I will probably have a belt full on skinning knifes & a camo vest on to carry the goodies in that I find there.
 
What brands of barrels, locks, and triggers should I look for, and which ones should I avoid?

Oh yeah, I'm not just interested in .36s, but .40s too. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
If you find locks, or triggers made by Davis, Chambers, L&R and a few others, most agree that you have a very good lock or trigger.
A "Siler" may or may not be a good lock. My reason for saying this is anyone can buy the Siler castings and proceed to put it together.
If it was done by a knowledgable person, it will produce a very good lock.
If it was done by someone who cannot follow instructions, or is a klutz with his tools, or his ability to heat treat steel correctly, it can make a disaster.

Barrels? Douglas, Getz, Colerain, Green Mountain and Rice all make very good barrels. There are some others who also make quality barrels but they are not commonly encountered.
These companies make very good products, but if your buying a gun which has been used, all bets are off.
Failing to properly clean or load and shoot the gun can screw up a fine product in less time than it takes me to write this.
Read some of the posts concerning buying used guns to gain a better understanding of what to look for by using the SEARCH button and "used guns" to find these posts.
 
Back
Top