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Ironwood

40 Cal.
Joined
Jan 24, 2003
Messages
126
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1
Just got it back from the gunsmith yesterday. Won't get to try it for almost a week. :( Mounted it as far back as possible. One screw in the rear mounting hole and gorrilla glue. I would have liked to have had a peep mounted on the tang but could never find one that would work.

WGRS.jpg
 
My 'garden gun' is a T/C Contender carbine in .223 with a Williams peep like that. I love it. It's good enough out to 200 yards that I never bothered with a scope. I'm eventually going to mount one on my T/C New Englander rifle barrel.

Been planin' to for 'bout eight years now, anywho.

Least you won't have to worry about movement at the tang fitting the way it sets.
 
Ironwood,
That setup looks pretty good, and I hope it works well for you. I talked With Dale Storey last week (ordered up two more sights) and we talked about your situation and came to the conclusion that you probably could have used one of his sights, with some judicious bending. Anyhow, it's history now. In any case Id like to send a picture of my setup, if I could just figure out how to do that. Any simple suggestions? Computerspeak and I dont mix at all, so keep it very simple.
 
Sam, You have e-mail.

Maxiball, The gunsmith said if I wanted to get the sight off I would probably have to break it off. He felt good about it holding up. I am a little worried about how much soot will get on the sight and how hard it is going to be to keep clean. Don't want it to corrode up.

Ironwood
 
Ironwood You will certanly get residue from the caps on it but it should clean up ok,eh Rocky /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
Ironwood......I take it your gun has a short tang?.....looking at the pix it looks like it ends about where the hammer spur is......john......
 
Your Williams base is aluminum so you won't get rust there. The peep is steel, just spray it with oil, wipe down with Q-tips or small patches and you'll be fine.
I've shoot black powder guns and didn't have time to clean them properly and drowned them in WD-40, let 'em set for several days then cleaned them. No rust, no corrosion at all. Frankly that's the only good use I've found for WD-40.
 
I have the same set up. Mine is on a Traditon's Hawkins Pioneer. In fact when I saw the picture I smiled because I thought it was so exact to my rifle. You will really like that set up. I was shooting mine Sunday and as always it is accurate.
 
Questions - Questions - Questions -- Questions

Where do I buy that exact one?

Do I need to remove my rear sight for this peep sight to work correctly?

Where do I find Gorilla Glue?

Maybe Cayugad knows this one cuz' he has the same barrel as I. Will the very-rear screw on my new GM 58-cal barrel hold this peep sight??
 
Trip - You could call Williams up in Davison. As the crow flies they're not far from you.

Regards, sse
 
Gorilla glue is a very heavy viscous polyetheline glue. theera re several on the market, from LePage and ProBond as well. We use it for the coroplast comat RC planes as they'll fly right through a balsa plane, generally without damage and keep right on truckin'.
; the glues are all similar, in that you need either a vry humid atmospheric conditions for it to 'cure' or wet one or both items prior to joining. You have to clamp the articles together and any ooze from the sides, top of bottom will bubble up into hardening foam. The glue does it's job of wetting and creating tension/filling any and all voids due ot it's expansive nature as it it cures.
: Water helps "Kick" the glue into curing more quickly. The lower the humidity or dryer the connection, the less foaming, longer curing time right to not curing in very dry locations for weeks, it seems. Over the past few years, I've used 3 large bottles of Gorrila glue and 4 or more of the ProBond and LePage makes. They're all about even. I've also used the gorrila glue for bonding the laminates in a longbow made of maple with an 1/8" maple 'back'. Using two laminates, the belly and back allowed stressing the tips into a reflexshape when curing by back-bending & clamping the wood. This slight reflex increased the bow's strength from what would have ben a 50#er to 60#draw at 28".(for those wanting to make their own flat-bow)
; These glues are very strong, however gorrila glue isn't "The World's Strongest" - just another advertizing lie.
 
777... Cabela's did have them on sale. I think mine cost $26 and change. I took the rear sight off. I'm still trying to find a blank to fill the slot. I was really surprised at how little sight adjustment I had to make. When I looked through the peep with the factory sight still on the rifle, I could see the bead right in the factory sight notch. At the range I only had to move the point of impact about 4 inches to the right. It's still shooting a little high with patched roundball. I'll try the 320 grain REAL next time out. The sight picture isn't as good as it would be if I could have mounted the sight a little more to the rear. However it's much better than the ol' factory sight.

I do get quite a lot of soot on the side of the sight and maybe the slightest bit of gas cutting. The glue seems to be doing the job. So far the solvents and lubes don't seem to have weakened it.

My three shot groups went from about 1-1/2" to an inch or less at 50 yards. I'm happy with it. If it will ever stop raining long enough I'll give it a real test on a hog or two. :)
 
I have a peep on my Renegade but it is a T/C peep. When I shoot the GMB I take the big peep insert out, and sight through the ghost ring, then over the sights. It really makes things accurate.

On my Traditions Pioneer I have a Williams Peep sight identical to the one pictured. I was given the rifle as junk because the person who owned it never cleaned it after deer season and stuck it in the basement to rust. I saved the rifle bore with a lot of cleaning and lapping and it is a good shooter with that peep.

I know for a fact that the Williams Peep was purchased at a small gun shop around here and mounted by the gun smith that works there. He is the one who mounted my T/C peep. We bought the peeps at the same time.

Something you might also want to look at besides Gorilla Glue is JB Weld. That was used to fix the broken stock on one of my rifles and it seems really solid. I bought a tube of it at Wal Mart and on the package it claims it will bond to most anything....
 
One screw would probably hold it without the glue, the glue just keeps it from turning but have to wonder why your gunsmith didn't just drill and tap another hole and put in 2 screws. Lyman makes a Micrometer
receiver sight that mts. on the tang with 1/4 min. clicks. A much better setup if you are going to use it to change ranges very often.
The williams sights are available almost anywhere. Any gunshop should have them or could order them. Brownell's
is a good sourse for Lyman and Williams and many others.
 
Deadeye... The gunsmith I use is very conservative and I like that. He didn't know for sure just how thick the barrel was where the front screw would go. He also thought that would be where the most pressure would be. Therefore he didn't want to put a screw there. Of course the closer you can get the sight to your eye the better sight picture you will have. So he mounted the sight as far back as possible.

If you'll notice in the photo above, the tang on the CVA is very short, only 1-3/8" overall. To make things more difficult it's almost straight, no drop at all. When you look at all of the tang sights that are available they are made for a tang that has considerable drop. If you straighten and shorten, the available tang sights, the aperture will be pointing down at the barrel instead of along the barrel.
 
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