Even if all are not in 100% agreement, we do know, or have learned, that handling lead is something that must be done with certain cautions. It is a rewarding pastime but is not something that should be done in the kitchen.
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Want to learn how to cast lead
- Thread starter cynthialee
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Well I have a well ventilated garage, and a coleman stove, lead is on the way. Now I need the mold, flux, pot and ladle pourer.
I woke up sick this morning, so my plans to run to the thrift store to track down an iron pot is not happening today.
I still haven't decided on a(the) mold(s).
I woke up sick this morning, so my plans to run to the thrift store to track down an iron pot is not happening today.
I still haven't decided on a(the) mold(s).
cynthialee said:
I would get the Lyman dipper and a Lee 2 cavity round ball mold (.490 if you are shooting 50 cal or .530 if you are shooting 54 cal). Flux can be hardwood sawdust or old candles. Clothing and safety equipment as mentioned above and a hammer handle for opening the sprue plate.
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in case i forgot, or nobody else mentioned it, or you didn't know...
make sure your melting pot is cast iron, if it's aluminum, it can fail in a very dramatic fashion ... not sure of the metallurgy. but there's something about aluminum which makes it unsuitable to use a container for melted lead... molds are OK, but melting pots are not: stick to cast iron.
make sure your melting pot is cast iron, if it's aluminum, it can fail in a very dramatic fashion ... not sure of the metallurgy. but there's something about aluminum which makes it unsuitable to use a container for melted lead... molds are OK, but melting pots are not: stick to cast iron.
Thank you for the warning. I had already intended on getting an iron pot as that is what I saw my daddy use.MSW said:
gmww
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I haven't read through all the posts so if I repeat something sorry.
Before spending money on a mould, see about getting a few samples from people of the conicals you want to shoot. You'll discover that not all rifles of the same make and calib. will shoot a particular conical with the same accuracy.
I thought the Lee Minie would be the ticket for me. Unfortunately my rifle just didn't like it as much as the Maxi-ball. Ended up giving the mini mould away to a member here. Too bad your on the NE side of the state. That's about 6 hrs from me on the West side.
I used to hunt with Bear Paw Outfitters in Colville until the state changed from either sex to buck only for whitetail. Too expensive now.
Before spending money on a mould, see about getting a few samples from people of the conicals you want to shoot. You'll discover that not all rifles of the same make and calib. will shoot a particular conical with the same accuracy.
I thought the Lee Minie would be the ticket for me. Unfortunately my rifle just didn't like it as much as the Maxi-ball. Ended up giving the mini mould away to a member here. Too bad your on the NE side of the state. That's about 6 hrs from me on the West side.
I used to hunt with Bear Paw Outfitters in Colville until the state changed from either sex to buck only for whitetail. Too expensive now.
We have family in COlville. It is just 20 minutes away from here.
The reason folks should never use aluminum to melt lead is because although aluminum doesn't melt until it reaches 1100-1200 degrees F, it looses almost all of its strength by the time it is heated to 700 degrees F.
Because it didn't melt at 700 degrees it will look just like it does at room temperature but because it doesn't have any strength the slightest touch or even just the weight of the molten lead can make the bottom fall out of the pan.
That can get REAL UGLY, real fast.
Because it didn't melt at 700 degrees it will look just like it does at room temperature but because it doesn't have any strength the slightest touch or even just the weight of the molten lead can make the bottom fall out of the pan.
That can get REAL UGLY, real fast.
Interesting as it is puzzling, that statement.
Lee moulds are made of aluminum.
I cast at near 700 degrees. Very likely others have cast at higher temps.
The moulds do not fall apart. :hmm:
'splain that, please.
Rifleman1776 said:
The thickness of the material has a lot to do with it.
I was casting this week using a large capacity ladle for making 58 cal minies. The ladle was of unknown origin and the head was cast aluminum. During my second casting session, I lifted the ladle out of the pot and had it empty suddenly. There was a dime sized hole in the bottom where the aluminum failed and fell out.
I recommend you take the aluminum pot advice as gospel. Several pounds of molten lead across your legs and feet would certainly ruin your day.
I am taking the no aluminum pots or ladles advice for sure. The idea of melted metal going every where is scarry buisness!
Think I will stick to small batches of melting when I get it rolling.
(I am starting to feel slightly better than I have the last few days. I might be able to get to the second hand store tommorow, so as to find my pot.)
Think I will stick to small batches of melting when I get it rolling.
(I am starting to feel slightly better than I have the last few days. I might be able to get to the second hand store tommorow, so as to find my pot.)
Anouther question about lead:
I have an ingot of lead bassed metal. Origins from China or one of those other Asian countries as it has some type of oriental script on it. Consists of lead, nickle, and tin, and traces of silver. Primarily lead though. I can scratch it with a finger nail if I bear down on it hard but not as easily as you can to a lead fishing sinker or a pre fab round ball.
Will this metal be any good for use in bullets? Or should I just keep it as a paperweight/curio.
I have an ingot of lead bassed metal. Origins from China or one of those other Asian countries as it has some type of oriental script on it. Consists of lead, nickle, and tin, and traces of silver. Primarily lead though. I can scratch it with a finger nail if I bear down on it hard but not as easily as you can to a lead fishing sinker or a pre fab round ball.
Will this metal be any good for use in bullets? Or should I just keep it as a paperweight/curio.
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I have two "stages" in my casting routine. Small pots and ladles are boogers when processing lots of salvage lead. For that I use a cast iron dutch oven on top of a Coleman stove. For not much money I got a big ladle from the plumbing supply section at our local hardware store. I haven't sussed it out, but it holds at least three pounds.
I put 50-80# of salvage into the dutch oven, and after melting flux and skim. Lotta dross comes off with some sources. Once it's clean, I use the big ladle to pour 1# ingots in several ingot molds I have. End up with a lot of real convenient 1# ingots for using in smaller pots, whether electric or stove top, for ball/bullet casting. I'd surely hate processing even 20# of salvage lead in one of those small pots.
When it's time to cast bullet/ball, I just use those little 1# ingots, smaller pot and small ladle. Dandy and slick. As time allows for melting a few of those dutch ovens of salvage, I'll turn out 100-200# of 1# ingots. The little ones are quick when less time is available.
It's worth noting that I also cast a heck of a lot of large fishing weights ranging up to 2# and jigs ranging up to 24 ounces. We go through lots in a summer of halibut and salmon fishing up here. I got a little over a ton of salvage lead for free when the local indoor range cleaned their lead traps. Just got a call and will pick up another ton later this week. A ton lasts about 4 years, so I'll be set for a while.
Heck, long as I'm yacking I have those ingot molds from 4 different makers. Each leaves the maker's name proudly cast in the ingots. Really handy way to keep track of alloy lead versus pure. I know by looking that any ingot that says Saeco or Lyman on it is pure lead. RCBS and Redding are alloy.
I put 50-80# of salvage into the dutch oven, and after melting flux and skim. Lotta dross comes off with some sources. Once it's clean, I use the big ladle to pour 1# ingots in several ingot molds I have. End up with a lot of real convenient 1# ingots for using in smaller pots, whether electric or stove top, for ball/bullet casting. I'd surely hate processing even 20# of salvage lead in one of those small pots.
When it's time to cast bullet/ball, I just use those little 1# ingots, smaller pot and small ladle. Dandy and slick. As time allows for melting a few of those dutch ovens of salvage, I'll turn out 100-200# of 1# ingots. The little ones are quick when less time is available.
It's worth noting that I also cast a heck of a lot of large fishing weights ranging up to 2# and jigs ranging up to 24 ounces. We go through lots in a summer of halibut and salmon fishing up here. I got a little over a ton of salvage lead for free when the local indoor range cleaned their lead traps. Just got a call and will pick up another ton later this week. A ton lasts about 4 years, so I'll be set for a while.
Heck, long as I'm yacking I have those ingot molds from 4 different makers. Each leaves the maker's name proudly cast in the ingots. Really handy way to keep track of alloy lead versus pure. I know by looking that any ingot that says Saeco or Lyman on it is pure lead. RCBS and Redding are alloy.
gmww
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cynthialee said:
I have used it for RB or modern bullets but not for conical bullets that you would need to try to put down the front of the muzzleloader. If you have any plumber friends they might be able to locate some pure lead. Or a scrap yard might have some in the form of lead pipes.
Darn...we just had the plumber out to repair the kitchen sink 4 days ago and I didn't think to ask for any lead he could part with....
gmww
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After trying different things, I found that a cheap cook stove (propane) that small cast iron pot about 6" at the top with a metal handle, and a ladle work the best for me. KISS principal.
I have the Lee pot and didn't like it because it would get clogged. I found a propane camp stove at Home Depot for $16.00 that works really well.
Here is the cast iron pot.
Edit: The stove also sits in a compartment in my truck should I get stuck somewhere like on the pass. I have instant soup and extra water as well along with a blanket. You never know.
I have the Lee pot and didn't like it because it would get clogged. I found a propane camp stove at Home Depot for $16.00 that works really well.
Here is the cast iron pot.
Edit: The stove also sits in a compartment in my truck should I get stuck somewhere like on the pass. I have instant soup and extra water as well along with a blanket. You never know.
Grullaguy pretty much nailed it.
The aluminum Lee molds have a LOT of material in them and there really aren't any forces in the molds to create a problem.
Also, although the aluminum right around the ball is hot, it's cooler than the lead. That's why the lead solidifies in the mold.
Because it's cooler, it is stronger than it would be if the lead was being melted in it and it was busy conducting the heat from the flame to the molten lead.
I use aluminum Lee molds for almost all of my bullet/ball casting and it works fine.
I guess it can be summed up by saying that aluminum will work if the design is made for that material.
Aluminum pots and pans aren't designed for melting lead. :thumbsup:
The aluminum Lee molds have a LOT of material in them and there really aren't any forces in the molds to create a problem.
Also, although the aluminum right around the ball is hot, it's cooler than the lead. That's why the lead solidifies in the mold.
Because it's cooler, it is stronger than it would be if the lead was being melted in it and it was busy conducting the heat from the flame to the molten lead.
I use aluminum Lee molds for almost all of my bullet/ball casting and it works fine.
I guess it can be summed up by saying that aluminum will work if the design is made for that material.
Aluminum pots and pans aren't designed for melting lead. :thumbsup:
Why don't they make the molds out of iron like they ussed to?
Also...I was thinking that a primative ball could be cast by a sand casting method.
Also...I was thinking that a primative ball could be cast by a sand casting method.
