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Walker

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Old Charlie

45 Cal.
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UPS just droped off my Walker Colt. The wedge is sticking out a half inch on the right side( as in aiming). Is this normal? Where can I find good instructions on breaking this gun down? The ones from Uberti leave a lot to be disired! I had a 58 Reme. But this is a whole new game! Never fooled with a Colt before. HELP!!!!
Old Charlie
 
Charlie:
I got an Uberti Walker that I have been fine tuning and playing with for most of the last six months. Really impressed with it! Yes, the barrel wedge goes in from the right side on the Walker - left side on most of the Colts there after (something that I forgot about on an earlier post on this subject but, I digress....). If you fully disassemble your Remington for cleaning I don't believe you would have any trouble with the Colt. The barrel and loading arm come off in one piece. Push the barrel wedge through to the right side - if new it may take a little assistance, put the hammer and cylinder in the half cock position then pivot the loading arm, this will lever the barrel assembly from the frame, the cylinder then comes off of its axel. To disassemble further, loosen and finally remove the three screws that hold the grip back strap in place, this piece is under tension from the main spring. I find that loosening each simultaneously keeps it from binding. Then remove the grips. Remove the mainspring from under the hammer by depressing it and moving it downward on the slot it rides on the brass trigger housing. Remove the three screws from the brass trigger housing, then remove it and the housing. Remove the large headed screw that hold the trigger and cylinder lock spring in place, remove from the side the screws that hold the cylinder lock and trigger in place, finally remove the hammer screw and pull the hammer and cylinder rotating hand from the frame. You are pretty well stripped down by this point. Not very hard to re-assemble though I do have trouble at times depressing that main spring to get it up under the hammer notch.
A disclaimer here - the above is in my own words, describing parts in my own fashion. These descriptions may not square with the traditional descriptions of these parts or processes, however if I was having to describe in words to someone how to take apart a Walker - this is it.
Finally, there is an old post on p-cap site called "Uberti Walker Colt Questions" that I submitted back in February. I had a lot of responses from some guys who know these weapons inside and out, you need to check that post out, a lot of pictures, and ballistic information and links were included there.
Hope this helps - enjoy your "Hand Howitzer"!
 
One little trick I learned about the Walker, or any percussion revolver, when getting the spring back into position under the hammer I only put the screw in the forward hole of the trigger guard, snug it down, but not too tight. Rotate the whole triggerguard assembly a bit to the side until the spring clears the hammer, than pushing down on the main spring so it clears the hammer, rotate the guard back into position and release the spring. The force of the spring should hold it into position well you install the remaining screws. Works, for me, your mileage may vary.
 
Check your library for the book by R.Chicoine: "Gunsmithing Guns of the Old West". Very good explanations and drawings. May be you even want to buy it if it is interesting enough for you!
 
good summary of breakdown. I like to cock the hammer and tie the mainspirng in place. then you can tap on the short leg of the spring and it comes down and off without overstressing anything.
 
walkerloads2.jpg


The velocities come from a uberti Kit Walker- great shooting gun. Don't know how the one in the picture shoots because it was made in 1847 and is worth about a billion dollars. The owner probably wouldn't let me shoot it. Swiss powder at about 60 grains of Swiss fffg was getting velocities up in the 1200s but they werent very consistent. I think maybe it needed .457 balls to get all that powder to rock and roll. It shoots good with the slightly reduced loads. the chamber mouths are .450" as is the forcing cone.
 
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