Verner flintlock

[kanati]

Hi all,

Just finishing up an A Verner. It is 45 caliber Green Mountain swamped barrel 44 inch long. P4 Curly maple stock. Chamber deluxe Siler lock. Have the percussion too for it as they interchange in the same inlet. Modified Rupp patchbox. Davis set triggers. Anxious to get out and shoot it. 62" overall length. 15" pull.

Thanks, Ron

 

[rabjr]

Very nice! :thumbsup:

 

[colmoultrie]

That's a nice rifle!

If you don't mind my asking, did you have a particular Verner in mind as your model, or is it your own interpretation? I ask because it seems to have a wider trigger guard bow, a bit narrower wrist than I think of for Verner, no curl on the trigger, double set triggers, and a front-opening patchbox (as you say, a modified Rupp box), rather than the side-opening box Verner is famous for.

Don't get me wrong, there's nothing wrong with what you've done at all; I like the finished product a lot. I was just wondering because it challenges my preconceptions, and if it's based on an original, I'd like to learn more.

Nice work!

 

[miner matt]

Nice work how long did it take you?

 

[RickD]

Thats one to be proud of

 

[Finnwolf]

Nice rifle and nice shop - you have equipment there most of us only dream about having. I'm partial to the Allentown Bethlehem school - nice to see a great example. Great work Kan!

 

[kanati]

Thanks for the great compliments!

How long did it take?

I received the parts from Pecatonica around September 15th. I would say in all, about 150 hours. The carving took the most time. It's tedious and a bit nerve racking. Without the carving, it could have been built in about 70 hours.

Is it a copy of an surviving example?

No. It is a Verner styled rifle. This is my first self built rifle, and it is really just to hunt with. The way it came out, is the way I wanted it to look. It was pretty enjoyable, going to build another, probably in 32 or 36 caliber. Now have all the special tools to do so(and a better understanding), drum sanders, carving tools, etc. On a project like this, one can't have too many tools. For the carving, the Dockyard carving tools were a real asset.

Thanks, Ron

 

[bucktales]

Holy Smokes!
That's some nice lumber ya got there.
Sweet! :bow: :thumbsup:

 

[Chilidog]

Very nice work - be proud! :hatsoff:

 

[mazo kid]

This is a hunting rifle??!! Wow, nice piece of wood and well done, too. Congrats. Emery

 

[agill]

Beautiful rifle! :thumbsup:

 

[Vaino]

Nice job! According to some experts, some of the Bucks County gunsmiths might have learned their trade in the Lehigh area, so that Pbox could be acceptable. What kind of stain and finish were used and is it built from "ctatch" or from a "kit"? Again....nice work....Fred

 

[larry wv]

I would use a UGLY gun to hunt with. I would be afraid to move for fear of burring that one up. Very nice. Larry Wv

 

[kanati]

flehto,

That is a good possibility on the patch box. Rupp and Verner were both of the Bethlehem school.

As for the skinny wrist, my understanding of surviving Verner work was he leaned toward wrists that were wider than they were tall, this one is that way. And for the wide bough on the guard, again every one I've seen, was that way as well. Single and set triggers both used. Verner may have been known for the side opening patchbox, but it's realistic that he used other types as well.

It isn't from a kit, rather a collection of suggested parts. Pecatonica, as it says on their front page, does not sell kits, they sell stocks and some suggested parts to build a particular type of rifle. What is used is really up to the builder. They are pretty sharp over there, they have a Verner pic on their site with a Rupp P'box. That doesn't mean they are necessarily claiming it as accurate, may just be a pic submitted by someone like myself.
http://www.longrifles-pr.com/averner.shtml

The stain and finish I used were simply "Red mahogany" by Minwax. I got about five different colors and let others look at the different samples on a scrap piece of wood, everyone seemed to like the red mahogany best. So, I went with that. For finish, I just used Birchwood Casey Tru-oil. It has about 10 coats on it.

I really didn't even want to add the patchbox at all. When I got to the point where the carving was finished and took it all in. The rifle just seemed too fancy to not have a fancy patchbox as well. It was a big decision, I'm happy with it. I think once it is engraved, it will not look like such an expanse of barren brass as it does now. I'm looking for an engraver. On a project like this, much of this technique I'm just learning. I think I've used up all my beginners luck . To venture off and try to learn engraving at this point could/would sacrifice the outcome, not even going to attempt it.

Thanks for the great compliments everyone! I took pics all along during the build, If I get time, I'll put some webpages together outlining the build.

Here are a few pics from the build:

Thanks, Ron

 

[ricklandes]

I like the reflection of the photographer in pic #5!
Is the tang bolt not tightened in the third pic...it seems a bit high?

Nice furniture. Love the color.

I keep looking at the transition area near above and forward of the rear thimble. It seems a bit chunky or "square-ish" to me.

The browned lock looks great, especially in the cocked pic from the rear angle.

Did you sew the case and if so with what type of thread? I am stuck on the where to begin sewing on an elk hide case... Did you do hand or machine?

 

[kanati]

The tang screw is not all the way down, It's going to be replaced as it has been in and out quite a few times. I'll fit the new one to the countersink etc.

The case is from Dixie gun works. It is about 2" too short. I'll add a pelt to the end or something. Hard to find a case for a 62" gun.

It's hard to get pics of something like this, it is so long and these digital cameras just don't seem to handle light very well. The transition area at the thimble, actually flows very smooth. The reflection makes it look boxxy.

Thanks, Ron

 

[Vaino]

Asre an engraver....Tim Adlam does my engraving and is well versed in LR requirements and is reasonably priced...of course that's a relative item. He's got a website and just search for Tim Adlam. I'm not a fan of "Trueoil"....too shiny but it can be rubbed back....like the carving though....Fred

 

[kanati]

Fred,

Same here on the Tru-oil. I'm going to let it cure out, then take some 000 steel wool and buff it to break the glaze, then keep it waxed. Should give it a nice smooth low luster.

Thanks, Ron

 

[paulvallandigham]

When using the last coat of Tru-oil on the stock, wait ten minutes for it to " set up", and then gently drag a CLEAN finger or two over the entire surface. This breaks the glassy finish, and leaves a softer, matte finish on the stock. Its a lot faster and easier to do than working the finish down with pumice, or rottenstone. Steel wool is too coarse, IMH experience.

If you already have a stock with a glassy Tru-oil finish on it. add another thin coat, and do as I instruct above. :thumbsup:

 

[Slowpoke]

You haven't lived until you've fashioned and inletted the Verner entry thimble. Never again...