Use of a wad on a 50 cal rifle

[William O.]

I had a fast twist 50 caliber rifle that really only got excellent accuracy when I added a lubed fiber wad to the loads. I tried using wads in my .54 and other .50 rifles using patched round balls but accuracy got no better and no worse. Your rifle will be different so check it out and see.

 

[ohio ramrod]

Yep the "reversed" wad and patch is common. When I started using leather over powder wads I tried some chrony tests. I quickly found that you had to move the crony further down range because the wad would push the patch into the chrony and give you odd results. :idunno: :idunno:

 

[AllenHawken]

Thinking of trying an over powder card on my Pedersoli .50 caliber percussion Kentucky rifle just to see what happens. I have never been satisfied with my 50-yard patched round ball groupings with that rifle and am willing to give it a try.

Considering .125" or .062" over powder cards from Circle Fly Wads. Anybody have any experience with either of those two thicknesses?

I'm inclined to start with .125" because that is what I use in my 12-gauge black powder muzzleloader Pedersoli SxS percussion shotgun so that is what I am used to and it works well in that gun.

 

[MJMarkey]

Some years ago there was some use of things like "Cream of Wheat" or "grits" used directly over powder as a 'buffer' I experimented a little with it. It preserves your patches to the point that they don't even scorch. but too much of a hassle IMHO.

 

[cynthialee]

Some years ago there was some use of things like "Cream of Wheat" or "grits" used directly over powder as a 'buffer' I experimented a little with it. It preserves your patches to the point that they don't even scorch. but too much of a hassle IMHO.

I have done this with corn meal. Works better than a wad honestly, but I'd rather just keep some wads or cards in my bag rather than an extra flask for corn meal.

 

[tecum-tha]

The wad makes sure a thinner patching material will not tear or burn through. If you use a thicker patch, there should be no problem.
I can't think of any reason why a wad would increase accuracy when the ball and patch combination are well tested out. And that means you're stacking balls. vary powder charge starting at 1.5 times the caliber in grains and go up and down about 10 grains in 5 grain increments, patch and ball that with some thumb pressure the ball sticks half out, different lubes and different patching materials.
Change one variable at a time.
On the bigger bores like .58, .62 and .65, a ball with 0.015-0.02 undersize and thicker denim patching or 0.020" Teflon ticking produces very good groups fast.
A felt wad was often used in jaeger rifles according to historical documentation when the rifle was kept loaded for a while during hunting, but was generally not used for target shooting. Recommended lube was 1/4 beef tallow and "pig grease" (=lard) or in colder weather pure "pig grease". Recommended patching was Fustian, Ticking or Linen with the 2 first ones preferred because it was able to hold more grease. I am currently trying this out and see if it does any good.

 

[Dave Rosenthal]

I'm a NRA Distinguished Expert. I use wads for both PRB's & 370 grain Maxi's in my .50 caliber "48-twist" rifle. Depending upon temp & humidity, I lube the wads. Using a well-lubed wad keeps the fouling soft enough to shoot all day without wiping, lowers the sdv (thereby improving accuracy), protects the patch or the base of the Maxi against too hot a burn causing a deformity, and tightens groups.

Back in October of 2009 I suffered a small heart attack & received (2) stents. Wife didn't want to let me shoot, but "caved-in" when I told her I would have friends lift my shooting box outta the car, so I went! I used an Ox-Yoke .50 caliber pre-lubed wonder-wad on top of 72 grains of 3Fg Goex black powder & then my 370 gr. T/C Maxi-Balls. At 50 YARDS, all 5 shots went into the 10-x Ring of a B-6 50 yard slow-fire pistol target. The wads did their "thing", lol!

Good luck & continued success!

Dave

 

[longcruise]

Don't want to be contrary, but I have always thought that before a patch can burn it needs to be cut or be such a loose fit that its not even beginning to do the job. Don't think the lube prevents burning either. Have shot a good fitting patc/ball without lube and saw no signs of burning!

 

[Wes/Tex]

Some years ago there was some use of things like "Cream of Wheat" or "grits" used directly over powder as a 'buffer' I experimented a little with it. It preserves your patches to the point that they don't even scorch. but too much of a hassle IMHO.

For rifles, the quickest and easiest solution is ram down the next smaller sized patch for you bore size....50 in a .54, etc. Then load the regular patched ball. Protects the ball patch from burning or scorching and doesn't add any substantial weight to the projectile. Good use for older precut and lubed patches you may have bought. :thumbsup:

 

[MJMarkey]

I was working on my .36 cal shooting yesterday, Getting tuned up for squirrel season. I use a 20 grain powder charge in that rifle with an over powder greased wad. I ran out of wads during the shoot and just loaded a patched ball. With the wad I was shooting the center out of the target. Without the wad the pattern broke up and dropped about 1-1/2" inches at about 30yards. I used a 1" square of cleaning patch over powder for a wad and it worked as well as the greased wads. A lot cheaper than the greased wads.

 

[Auldgoat]

Started using felt wads (Wonder Wads) in my .50; accuracy tightened up from 4-5" at 35 yds to 2". No more blown out patches. 65 gr.3f, .015 flannel spit patch .490.

 

[bpd303]

I use the blue shop towels on a roll for over powder wads. I just tear a patch about 2 in square for my .45 to .58 caliber's and wad it up with a drop of moose juice for lube.
Patch on left no wad...middle wad...patch on right with wad in my smoothbore.

 

[MJMarkey]

I don't have a blow out problem on my rifles. I started using felt wads mainly to prevent patch lubes from migrating to the main charge. This is especially evident in my .36 where I use only 20 grains of powder. If that small charge dampens it substantially reduces the powder charge. All I'm saying is I don't add lube to my wadding. The Factory greased wads don't migrate to the powder.

 

[Joel/Calgary]

For rifles, the quickest and easiest solution is ram down the next smaller sized patch for you bore size....50 in a .54, etc. Then load the regular patched ball. Protects the ball patch from burning or scorching and doesn't add any substantial weight to the projectile. Good use for older precut and lubed patches you may have bought. :thumbsup:

... or the patches you policed up after your last range session. I've had denim patches make 3 or 4 trips downrange.

Regards,
Joel

 

[VEARL]

I use a O/P wad in my rifles. They really help to tighten my groups up.
Hell. I even set on one all of the time. Helps tighten me up. :nono: