Underlug hole elongation...

[Adam in WI]

What is the correct tool for doing this? I'm using the finest point rifflers file I have and it seems to be a pretty slow go.

Also, how much should the hole be elongated? Are we talking a few thousandths, or daylight on each side of the pin?

Thanks all...

 

[Onojutta]

Take a look at the picture I posted in my thread about repairing. I drill the first hole through the stock and lug, then remove the barrel and drill a hole on either side of the first hole. Just close enough that the bit doesn't follow the first hole. Then I use a jeweler's saw to turn the three holes into a slot. A tiny round hobby or riffler file, whatever they are called, can be used to clean things up, but be careful not to open up the notch with the file.

Just don't drill the first hole as close to the bottom as I did.

 

[Adam in WI]

So you basically did triple the hole diameter? That seems like a lot. Do the stocks really expand and contract that much?

 

[Onojutta]

So you basically did triple the hole diameter? That seems like a lot. Do the stocks really expand and contract that much?

The diameter does not change and so the height of the notch remains the same as the diameter. I use 1/16” hole so I am providing 1/16” allowance for movement back and forth in the long direction. I am sure there won’t be that much movement, but as long as you get the height of the notch right, the pin will fit snugly through the hole in the stock; there’s no such thing as too long of a slot. You want the pin to fit snugly up and down but to be able to slide lengthwise in the notch.

 

[Eric Krewson]

1/16" diamond bit in a Dremel, zip, zip, 3 seconds, done.

I use the one on the far left.

 

[Adam in WI]

1/16" diamond bit in a Dremel, zip, zip, 3 seconds, done.

I use the one on the far left.

View attachment 303660

How long do you make your slots?

 

[James Kibler]

I suggest using a jewelers saw and small needle files to clean up. I have used diamond rotary tools, but they can very easily drift up and down while elongating.

 

[The Appalachian]

Rock your drill bit back and forth to elongate the hole on the outside, then clean up the little bit of metal on the inside with an appropriate file.

Longitudinal movement of wood is minimal. All you need is enough space fore and aft of the pin to prevent any binding.

 

[Rob M.]

This is via a great builder here in Ohio . I dont do it ... Take a bit in the drill , flutes close to jaws and with bit always at 90 degree to the already drilled hole in lug , push bit forward , then to the rear then up toward barrel ...never down . Do this until you get the desired amount of space you want in the lug hole ...

 

[painter]

I suggest using a jewelers saw and small needle files to clean up. I have used diamond rotary tools, but they can very easily drift up and down while elongating.

When I assembled my Kibler SMR I used a jewelers saw. Took me a couple of blades to get the hang of it, but it works really well.

 

[Onojutta]

When I assembled my Kibler SMR I used a jewelers saw. Took me a couple of blades to get the hang of it, but it works really well.

Hardest thing about the jeweler's saw is not braking the blade by fumbling once you get it connected. Otherwise I found it to be a very easy procedure and a lot less risk of ending up enlarging the hole too much by trying to cut sideways with a drill bit to make the "slot".

 

[oldwood]

I use 1/16 " pins . Drill the pin hole through the stock , and lug all the way. Remove barrel from wood , just wobble the drill bit end to end in the newly drilled lug pin hole. Whatever you have to elongate the pin hole slightly more , will work. Tiny rat tail file , Dremel tool w/ whatever bit you like. Doesn't take much to slightly elongate the lug pin holes.

 

[Eric Krewson]

I was once a serious power duck decoy carver; I know my way around a Dremel and a Fordom. Most people goof up with one because they use the wrong bit and technique. For fine detail use I use a worn out diamond bit or ruby carver bit.

 

[Scota@4570]

Never mind

 

[FlinterNick]

What is the correct tool for doing this? I'm using the finest point rifflers file I have and it seems to be a pretty slow go.

Also, how much should the hole be elongated? Are we talking a few thousandths, or daylight on each side of the pin?

Thanks all...

Only slightly, as to so much that the pin will have enough friction to stay put, that’s what I’ve done. I counter sink the pin holes, if i use mild steel wire or nails.

I personally do not elongate my underlug holes, i use spring steel wire that is tempered at 800 degrees. This provides a rebounding to the barrels movement preventing the stock from cracking. When you use mild steel wires like nails or coat hangers the pins bend and yield to the recoil and pressures from the barrel.

 

[wiscoaster]

I resisted getting a jewelers saw because I didn't want to buy a one-purpose tool, and first tried some other methods using tools on hand; finally broke down and bought one, and honestly, that's really the best tool for this job. As recommended by Jim Kibler.

 

[Pete G]

A jeweler’s saw and a bit of beeswax to lube the blade and will find all kinds of things it’s handy for.

 

[SDSmlf]

I resisted getting a jewelers saw because I didn't want to buy a one-purpose tool, and first tried some other methods using tools on hand; finally broke down and bought one, and honestly, that's really the best tool for this job. As recommended by Jim Kibler.

If you want to get frustrated with a jeweler’s saw, get a cheap one…. Then upgrade just a bit and you will be amazed.

 

[Onojutta]

A jewelers saw is one of those tools that you don’t need often, but when you do it is worth its weight in gold. Relatively inexpensive to boot.

 

[Onojutta]

.