Thinning Tru-Oil

[Black Powder Guy]

I am new at working on smokepoles. Do you use a thinner at times on Tru-Oil? If you do,what do you use?

 

[poker]

Naptha, charcoal lighter fluid, etc.

 

[user 48679]

I have never thinned down Tru-Oil, going straight from the bottle.

If anyone uses too much Tru-Oil at a time, they're most likely get a thick mess for their trouble.

The Gold Standard for applying Tru-Oil is to dip the tip of one finger into the bottle, then transfer that scant amount to an area of the stock that's to have the finish applied first, then literally rubbing the oil into the wood with the same fingertip over an area no bigger than a US Dollar bill.

Keep rubbing that same area until the oil starts to dry - signaled by a faint squeak under the rubbing fingertip.

Only then should you move to an adjacent area of the stock, repeating the same process; move/repeat/etc until the entire stock has a single coat of oil.

After the coat dries ( I let it dry overnight between coats), rub off the extra oil with a new/clean pad of OOOO steel wool, followed by dragging a magnet over the stock surfaces to remove any steel dust, before applying the next coat as above.

Repeat until you're satisfied with the coverage ; for a satin finish, just rub the final coat down & do the magnet; for a glossy finish, don't rub the final coat down.

In either case, let the finish cure for a week or two before applying some paste wax.

 

[longcruise]

Mineral spirits.

 

[Fly Navy]

I've tried using a 50/50 mix with mineral sprits but liked it better without it.

 

[Artificer]

I've used Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol, as well, which I think is better or best for this use.

Gus

 

[Eric Krewson]

I use a small square of a rag about the size of a cleaning patch for Tru-oil application, just a few drops rubbed in at a time.

Here is a Tru-oil tip; instead of pealing off the foil seal just punch a small pin hole in it, you can get all the Tru-oil you need from that pin hole, store you bottle upside down and the finish inside won't set up and get gummy for at least a year, possibly more.

 

[RonRC]

I use a small square of a rag about the size of a cleaning patch for Tru-oil application, just a few drops rubbed in at a time.

Here is a Tru-oil tip; instead of pealing off the foil seal just punch a small pin hole in it, you can get all the Tru-oil you need from that pin hole, store you bottle upside down and the finish inside won't set up and get gummy for at least a year, possibly more.

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Thank you Mr. Krewson. That is a very valuable piece of advise!

 

[N.Y. Yankee]

I use a small square of a rag about the size of a cleaning patch for Tru-oil application, just a few drops rubbed in at a time.

Here is a Tru-oil tip; instead of pealing off the foil seal just punch a small pin hole in it, you can get all the Tru-oil you need from that pin hole, store you bottle upside down and the finish inside won't set up and get gummy for at least a year, possibly more.

View attachment 92703

Put the pin hole at the edge of the mouth of the bottle. It's even easier to dispense and keep the excess cleaned up. Honestly, Tru Oil is best used straight from the bottle. Just use very small amounts at a time.

 

[oldwood]

I experimented with many different finishes until about 1980. At that time I found what I was looking for. Everyone has their way of finishing. The final step is mostly ignored or taken for granted in most circles. My opinion of linseed oil based finish is ,it's better than no finish on a gun stock. Poor as linseed based finish is , if the final product is "maintenance coated " with quality wax , like Minwax, Special Dark , from Lowes , Home Depot , hardware stores , the linseed based finishes don't seem to wash off the gun in wet weather. You might need to replace the wax , but that's easy compared to refinishing the gun...........oldwood

 

[nhmoose]

I slop True-Oil on heavily till all is wet. I then wipe it off with a lint free tac cloth.

I do use the hole in the seal method and wipe any off after dispensing and before resealing. I then store the bottle top down [upside down] so the scum forms at the bottom end of the bottle

 

[Scota@4570]

True oil has very low solids. Building any film thickness is a problem. Thinning it would make it worse. When I used it, I use a small swatch of lint free soft cloth to wipe it on. Just avoid putting on so much that you get drips and runs. It will take many coats, which I why I don't use it anymore. Try not to over complicate it.

To avoid it skinning over in the jar use Bloxygen. It is argon gas. IF you have a MIG or TIG welder, there you go. Argon is heavy and non reactive, it will blanket the surface , excluding oxygen, and prevent it from skinning over.